the pip charger is in the battery area. red point, the car has three battery displays. one is the his indicator display, which shows remaining ev below the battery icon. if there are no numbers, you're out of ev and on hv. the second is the same display panel, if you cycle through, it's the energy display before you get back to the his display, and shows remaining ev miles on the lower right. the third is on the radio screen, if you press the 'car' button to the right, you get another energy direction screen, and there is a battery icon with remaing ev. both battery icons show full green and drop as you get lower on charge. when you get to 1 ev mile left, it goes to full green, but bars that tick down with each tenth. then it goes to similar hv battery display as regular prius.
I might employ your services. I traded 135 bills for the car, which seems like a lot more money when the bank teller is whispering it while she counts it back. I wasn't murdered, so that's good. We will see how the car shakes out on my 300 mile round trip to Bend tomorrow.
Can I put a standard 110v 3 prong end on this cable and then just directly connect to the Prius charge port?
No. That is only one half of the EVSE equation. You need the "box" on the other end with the electronic "guts" (technical terms) to talk to the cars' charger. That item in the link is most likely bought by folks building their own EVSE. Google EVSE for more info.
you need to buy or build an evse. thats the j1772 i have plus the L2 open evse project. cost me $500. 2 1/2 years ago. if you can pick up an oem for $250., peef can convert it to L2 for a couple hundred.
The electricity may be free at a public charging station but you'll most likely need a card for activation.
unless you can find one at a whole foods, etc., just plug in and go shopping. i think you can charge at nissan dealer's as well.
The Ford J1772 EVSE charger should work as well, right? From what I understand I'm just getting an electrical cable with a standard charging head, and a circuit breaker built in. These things should cost $75 instead of hundreds.
i guess there's some circuitry in there, but it's still overpriced. not sure about the ford, but it should.
Yes, any J1772 EVSE will work as that's the standard. I had said when the tax credit for EVSE's expired last year that prices would drop and lo and behold they did. I don't think they will get down to $75 though due to all the copper involved in the long cables. You don't need a level II (240v) for the PIP but they are quite handy for vehicles with more EV range if you want to to think about the future and getting a vehicle with a larger battery. This would save you $$ in the long run by making only one purchase. ClipperCreek's start at $395 for level II and 3yr warranty. Highly recommended.
I put about 500 miles on the PiP this weekend traveling from Portland to Bend, to Sisters and back. The car did great, averaging about 50 mpg according to the trip computer. Everything seems to work perfectly. There is a slight wind noise coming from the lower right portion of the windshield, so I'm assuming it was replaced and not sealed correctly. On the way back down Mt. Hood towards Portland, there is about a 5 mile stretch where traffic slows down despite the 6% downgrade. The car put 4 miles EV range into the battery, so I know it's capable of taking a charge. My Torque app showed all battery banks to be very close in voltage at just above 25 volts each. I drove the last 2 miles home in EV mode and really enjoyed the experience. One thing I found strange is that the car will use up EV range even if it's in Hybrid mode. Although the car generated 4 miles of EV range, it went down to 3 miles range despite keeping the car in HV mode. Another thing I noticed is that the B mode (downhill braking mode) revs the engine and doesn't seem to be as efficient at charging up the battery as keeping in D mode and applying slight braking. It seems the car wastes some of the energy in B-mode by driving the engine RPM higher. Do others have a similar experience? I'll probably never use B-mode again, especially since it can't be shifted to from neutral. I found the previous owners home address and names in the nav, so I'm going to write them a letter asking if they still have the charger and the spare key. Hopefully they do and are willing to part with them for a reasonable price. The first mod I'll do is disable the stupid reverse beep. No other cars have that obnoxious "feature", I wonder why Toyota thought it necessary in the Prius? Any other mods you recommend? I've very technically capable and like a good project. I'll probably upgrade to HID headlights and would like recommendations on what affordable kits to look at. I'll also convert all interior and exterior lights to LED except for turn signals. I bought the car from a guy that owns a tire shop, and from what I can tell, he mounted the cheapest tires he has in the shop. Although they are new, they are no-name brand and have an aggressive tread pattern. Perhaps I'd do better to trade them in on more efficient and quiet tires? Perhaps I could recoup the cost of better tires in fuel savings over the course of the 70,000 miles I'd use them. Finally, when the lead-acid battery gets weak, I'll replace it with a LiFePO4. The fact that the battery is mounted inside the cabin means the temperature is well regulated. It's the perfect place for the temperature sensitive LiFePO4 chemistry.
It sounds like everything is working exactly as it should. It's normal to use EV charge during HV mode. On a long trip, I might have 10 miles of EV showing, then switch to HV on the highway. After 100 miles, my EV range is decreased or all gone. On the flip side, when in HV mode, you can indeed accrue a lot of EV range for later use. Ah, "B" mode: here's my trick. I never use it in HV mode, because, as you've discovered, it merely uses engine braking. But, if you are in EV mode (or are able to switch to it), "B" seems to charge the battery more quickly. Like you, I like just keeping it in "D" and use the brake pedal to modulate the regen optimally. As for tires, they do make a huge difference, but if you're getting 50mpg in HV mode, I'm not sure a tire change for more low resistance shoes makes sense. You indeed lucked out on this rebuild.
I would go with a good LRR tire. 50 mpg is not good for a pip. I do much better with my gen 3. 2014 Prius. My gen 3 is fitted with Ecopia 20 that came with the car when I purchased it new. I run 38f and 26r. Air pressure. Hal
My assumption would be that while similar to the "normal prius" there are still some differences in the hybrid program on the PiP. On a normal Prius once the battery SOC gets low, the controller forces charge to be put back into the battery even it means decreased efficiency. The battery charge in/out always has to net to zero, and for the sake of longevity its pretty stubborn about keeping the battery mid range. On the plug-in, there is no such longevity concern if the pack still has EV miles available, so it wouldn't make sense to do anything inefficient to replace the charge used in your HV driving. It sounds like the PiP in HV mode treats B-mode much like the standard Prius. The ICE is configured with fuel shut off, and valve timing to maximize resistance. MG1 is then used to spin it against this resistance, dissipating energy and slowing the vehicle. If in EV mode they re-purpose it as a higher drag regen that's pretty cool and smart! Congrats on your good luck so far!! Seriously jealous Rob
It not only seems like that, it is like that. The only way the ICE turns is by having it run with gasoline or making it turn using MG2. In order to do the latter, you need electricity. So using B-mode means you regenerate less energy.
I've finally had more time to look the car over with more scrutiny. The passenger-side quarter panel was smacked, and some frame repair was done, along with some 12v electrical. The only problem I have noticed so far is what sounds like wind noise coming from the lower passenger-side windshield. When I place my hand around the window, I don't feel any breeze, and no water infiltrates the cabin. I did notice there is a plastic insert on the inside of the driver-side fender that is missing from the passenger side. I'm wondering if this could cause the noise? Any idea what this part is for? Its missing from the passenger side, and you can see the frame repair. Here is the part alone I also found cracks in the air intake before the filter. Is it important for this to be airtight? In most cars the intake is just a tube that directs air into the filter, but the Prius one looks special, as if something else is going on. Should I replace it? There is a tiny gap between the plastic shroud and the corner of the windshield that isn't supposed to be there. The windshield is tightly sealed with whatever adhesive is used when it's installed, so I sort of doubt the noise is coming from that extremely small gap, although I suppose it is possible. I inspected the underside of the vehicle, and all plastic appears to be intact. Still haven't located the oil filter though.
I inspected the underside of the vehicle, and all plastic appears to be intact. Still haven't located the oil filter though. You Amerikans so weak! Lada engine can swallow chunk size of your Rhode Island and not miss a meal!