Is there any way to tell the condition of the battery? I have an ELM237 device and torque on my phone. The guy is asking $14,500 for a reconstructed title 2012 Plug in Prius with 35,000 on the odometer. That is very close to 70% of normal private party, which is about what I consider a reasonable discount considering no warranty. I don't know why, but it's only Russians that sell these reconstructed vehicles. I was planning to hold off until the gen IV is released since it might drive down the cost of the gen III, but the PiP is a very rare car in these parts, and low fuel prices might have temporarily reduced demand for fuel efficient vehicles. The car had right front damage and the headlight, bumper, hood, and quarter panel was replaced. The Russian guy barely spoke English and told me the battery was full. Well, the car wouldn't go into EV mode because the charge was too low and he doesn't have the charge cable. The hybrid mode indicated a full battery, however. The car drove perfect and appears to be in good shape, but who knows what condition the battery is in. I'm very handy and would fix just about any unexpected problem the car might have if I buy it, although the repairs look perfect and the car drove straight, steady, and vibration free. Fluids looked perfect. I might offer $13,500 as a firm price considering the lack of cable and ability to test EV mode. What do you think?
Go take the car to a public charging station. Hybrid mode with Full Battery is like a normal Prius. Take to a charging station and plug in for 1/2 hour.
what's the best deal you can get on a pip with no accident? 20k? i guess you have to add in the freight from russia.
I don't see how a front end collision could somehow hurt the battery; especially since it's not liquid cooled. There is only one traction battery so if it works in hybrid mode (no codes, etc), it's a fairly safe assumption that the EV portion of the battery is unaffected. Having said that, I would, as previously suggested, find a public charger, charge it, and drive the car many, many miles to see if a) any codes pop, b) EV range, and c) if hybrid ICE operation leads to overheating, etc. Definitely need to factor in the purchase of an EVSE.
Bisco, I estimate $20k for a clean PiP is about what I'd pay. I figure the worst case scenario is I have to replace the battery, which costs what, $5k? I'd do the work myself. That still puts me under the $20k I would spend on a clean vehicle. I'm very handy, and might even have a shot at repairing a bad battery. As you can see from my Avatar, I have a high tolerance for risk, and that goes for not only personal safety, but investments and purchases. While the Russian might seem a little misleading, I don't think it's intentionally so. He probably doesn't know how the PiP works, and saw the display showing a full battery for hybrid mode. Is there another display that shows EV charge? I realize both utilize the same battery, which is what gives me a little confidence that it's still in serviceable condition. I like Makena's idea to charge at a public station. I don't have a Blink, or other card to do so. The funny thing is, my biggest concern is not that the car has a major problem, but that the Gen IV coming out at the end of the year will put a glut of used vehicles on the market and drive the prices down. The gen II PiP will be around the corner, too. If it does significantly better, then I'd be less happy with my purchase. Thanks Fotomoto. I'll be paying cash and only get liability insurance anyhow. I'm not as interested in the warranty since I like to do all my own work, including electrical. I assume the EVSE circuit is near where the plug goes in, so it would be unlikely to be damaged. Still a good idea to test this though. Probably a spendy part, I imagine. The vehicle was last serviced May of 2014 according to Toyota, so it could have sat for a long time without the engine charging up the battery. My concern would be that it went flat, or very low, and that reduced the life and range of the battery.
I have to say I'd be tempted, particularly if you can beat them down any further on price. On the plus side that's a killer deal on a PIP. On the negative side, the Russian rebuilders don't on the whole have a stellar reputation for quality and honesty. A key factor in my decision to originally buy a salvage rebuild was my extreme confidence in the person doing the work (Steve Woodruff in IN). If you are up for a gamble (which it sounds like you are) you could make out really well with it. I think your concern about the battery sitting flat for an extended period is right on, that would be my main concern. If you can find a way to get it charged (anyone local you can borrow a cord from?) I'd think that would be a really good way to reduce risk. I'd also consider taking the extra step of having it inspected by a competent third party to check it all out, and get as much info on its pre-repair condition as possible. The pics and info from the original auction would be nice to see. Its not unheard of for a blown airbag to be replaced with a sense resistor to trick the diagnostics into thinking its been replaced for example. Beyond that, just keep in mind that a salvage / rebuild will likely be difficult to sell later, so just make sure you factor that into your plans.
Also, I wouldn't consider buying if it hasn't already been retitled from salvage to rebuilt. It varies by state, but you will likely have to go through an inspection and provide documentation on the repairs. If you assume this responsibility you are adding a lot of risk, as if the inspector is not satisfied with the work or documentation, the vehicle will not be able to be registered. Rob
FYI. you can get a (what appears to be) good condition Nissan Leaf 120V EVSE/cable (with the cool storage bag) for about $250 on eBay. And from testing by Jeff N, the Leaf EVSE works fine with the PiP.
there should be a free charger somewhere, check places like whole foods, costco etc. and you only need 15 minutes to put in a couple miles. any way to find out what the original damage was that was so expensive they totaled it?
The EVSE is the charging cable/j1772 plug interface that's not included with this particular car and yes they aren't cheap from the dealership parts counter (look elsewhere). The actual charger unit is located inside the vehicle. I don't recall where it is in the PIP but in the Volt the charger is upfront where the accident damage occurred. I would research more into what is located in this damaged area of the PIP. Make sure this car charges before you purchase! I can understand the EVSE not being included as the original owner probably never saw the car again after the wrecker towed it off from the scene and the cable is still hanging on the wall in the garage. LOL GOOD LUCK!
What do I think? It depends. If you're able to write a check for it..... If you're in good financial shape (debt free except for house, saving for retirement, college, etc....).... If you're going to us it as an eco-geeky play-pretty or a hobby car???? Sure. You only live once, and all like that. However (comma!!!) if you're doing it for anything related to saving money, then I would strongly recommend against. Can you even get a loan on a totaled car?
Good points, and that describes me. I'll pay cash, I like tech and efficiency, and have no debt except for mortgages. I would like it to be a decent deal in the financial dept, which is why I'm able to pay cash in the first place. I tend to make good financial decisions and live frugally. That said, I do know I can get a 2011 Leaf for about $11,500 with a clear title. The problem is convincing the wife that plugging in a car is no big deal. Plus, I'd like something that gets great fuel economy on long road trips. Maybe I'll sell the Acura and get an EV to replace it. It is possible to get a loan on a reconstructed title vehicle, but often only 50% of the normal retail value is able to be financed. Either that, or the interest rates are higher than normal.
What do I think? Firstly, buying anything without warranty is dumb (why do you think they want to sell it as-is?) Secondly, chop-shop parts get fenced this way. Thirdly, if it's reconstructed, only the odometer might have 35,000 miles. Fourthly, if it's a legitimate insurance write-off vehicle, it could have all kinds of invisible damage from an accident. Fifthly, if it seems to good to be true, it probably is (especially with a Russian accent).
Sounds like you know what you're doing! If the Pip were repaired properly, and since you're just using it as a hobby car, heck I don't really see a down side. I have 2 motorcycles....no boats. Lots more foolish than some.... Not as foolish as others. Good Luck! Let us know how it shakes out.
I would worry less about the battery and more about the condition of the car after the front end impact. I almost bought a car with a salvage title. Fortunately I took it on the freeway and the wind noise irritated the heck out of me. I stopped at a hardware store to tape up all the places that might make that sound, but it still persisted. It might have been just the door not aligned correctly, or the frame could have been tweaked. In the end I walked away. I'm not saying you shouldn't buy this car, but I'd bargain hard, and test it at a charging station, and buy one of those cables/tech$tream cds from ebay to check everything you can. On the other hand, if you're handy, you can always by a wreck and fix it up yourself. Lower costs mean less risk.