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Throttle body cleaning tips?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by cyberpriusII, Dec 27, 2014.

  1. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Hope all had a good and merry Christmas and will have a Happy New Year!!!

    I am back in Oregon for one more day and then back to frigid Iowa....

    While here, I complained about hubby's Camry and the idle going all over the map. We both (hmm, almost too much togetherness) worked and managed to clean the throttle body on the Camry (only had trouble with the locking clamp that attached the air intake to the throttle body). All is now well.

    And, it may have been my imagination, but I thought my PRIUS was doing a bit of high revs a week or so ago, so I poked around in that engine a bit ago.

    Since the Prius has no TACH, don't really know...but, looking at the Prius throttle body when I take the air filter out, the TB looks "semi-dirty." You can see a thin layer of black all across the "round thing" and I imagine a fair amount is on the tube itself -- this is when the car is totally shutdown/turned off.

    Reading a few posts on this, I read one where Patrick said to clean the sides and the plate of the TB. While reading advice on Camry forums prior to cleaning the Camry TB, I saw several things that said NEVER touch the round plate disc while cleaning the TB -- which is it???

    On the Camry forums, they get all into this whole "drive by wire" thing, which means the actual round plate thing is "untouchable" esp. when you have the key "on" and a 20-pound weight holding the gas pedal to the floor.
     
    #1 cyberpriusII, Dec 27, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2014
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    listen to mr. wong, he won't steer you wrong.
     
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  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Page 7 of the attached Toyota Technical Service Bulletin provides instructions regarding how to clean the Prius throttle body. Although this was written for Classic Prius (which is more susceptible to engine no-start due to a dirty throttle body and throttle plate) the same procedure is applicable to 2G Prius, which has the same basic engine design.

    This throttle body cleaning procedure assumes that the car is IG-OFF, and there is no problem rotating the spring-loaded throttle shaft for access to the throttle plate underside. You certainly would not want to be cleaning the throttle body when the car is either IG-ON or READY.

    Further, note that the instructions specifically recommend against flooding the throttle body with cleaner, contrary to the instructions that you might find printed on the throttle body cleaner can. The manufacturer of the cleaner wants you to use as much chemical as possible, while the TSB points out the damage which that careless process can cause to the throttle motor.
     

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    #3 Patrick Wong, Dec 27, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2014
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  4. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Patrick:

    Thanks so much for the PDF. It is clear and easy to follow. I don't understand all the terms, but it is clear enough and certainly looks "do-able."

    It is just so different from the information we read for the Camry. Everything we saw said to turn the car "on," but not to start it. And, then use weights to push the gas pedal to floor, which held the throttle body valve open.

    But, apparently, that is not the method with the Prius.

    I never did understand what people were talking about when they said the Camry is Drive by Wire, but just wonder is the Prius NOT drive by wire?

    Again, thanks MUCH!!
    kris
     
  5. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    This article provides a simple explanation of three computer controlled systems that manufactures may employ, and goes into further detail if wanted:
    Brake-by-wire, drive-by-wire (electronic throttle control), and steer-by-wire.

    Someone correct me, but I believe the Gen2 Prius use drive and brake by wire.
     
    #5 exstudent, Dec 28, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    ALL Prius throttle systems are electronic, "by wire" if you like. A quick examination of the throttle body will show that there is no mechanical means to connect the throttle to the accelerator pedal. That is why a throttle motor is attached to the throttle body, to rotate the throttle shaft.

    The Prius throttle is particularly subject to requiring periodic cleaning because of the gasoline engine operating on Atkinson cycle. That results in valve timing such that the compression stroke starts while the intake valves are still open. Hence unburnt HC is forced into the intake manifold and eventually gunks up the throttle body interior and throttle plate.

    Many engine designs do not require this cleaning because 1) they use the normal Otto cycle, and 2) the throttle is located far enough away from the intake manifold so that there is no reason for the throttle to get particularly dirty - unless there is an engine air filter failure due to poor maintenance.

    The Prius braking system is also "by wire". Brake pedal movement provides information to a sensor mounted at the brake pedal. That tells the hybrid vehicle ECU what braking force is desired by the driver.

    The HV ECU then decides how much regen braking to extract via MG2, and how much friction braking is required. The brake actuator assembly then sends the necessary hydraulic force to the wheel cylinders to effect friction braking.

    If the Prius braking system fails, there is supposed to be a manual override for the hydraulic system, but based upon owner reports it appears this override is not very good. Hence you should count on significantly increased braking distances if the skid control system decides to fail on you. My dad actually experienced that fun as the first owner of the 2007.
     
    #6 Patrick Wong, Dec 28, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
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  7. Easy Rider 2

    Easy Rider 2 Senior Member

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    As kind of an aside:
    Don't panic just yet.
    My Prius does some strange things with the engine every once in a while.
    It rev's higher than normal when at a stop and does not do the "auto shutdown" thing like normal.
    It doesn't happen often and I assume it is due to low traction battery or cold engine or some other unusual combination of factors.

    If you aren't experiencing any other symptoms, I would surely wait until spring to do any TB cleaning......unless you have a well heated garage.
     
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  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Chris don't forget to lubricate the big wrapped around spring on the end of the butterfly axle. Spray it good.

    Get long 2 inch strips of t shirt cloth DO NOT use paper towel. While holding the throttle/butterfly open by by hand (turn the spring) shove the strip in as deep as you can past the open butterfly then soak the shite out it with carb cleaner. Still holding it open and with nitrile gloves on scrubby dub dub with the strip. Scrub the wall of the throttle body till it shines. SCrub both sides of the butterfly good. Pull it out and throw it away and repeat with more strips till its clean.

    Take a good look at how corroded the edges of the round butterfly flap is. Thats where it will stick. While rotating the throttle spring look at that closely for issues. The little tb motor will not power through a sticky butterfly.

    I also spray lube a tiny bit on where the butterfly axle goes through the tb walls.

    And lastly there's is a throat clamp on the underneath of the ac filter box where the box fits over the tb throat. Have to get a 10 mm socket under there. Pain. It clamps the box to the tb. Make sure you tighten it down when your done or air will sneak past the air cleaner system.
     
    #8 edthefox5, Dec 28, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2014
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  9. AzWxGuy

    AzWxGuy Weather Guy

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    Air will also be sneaking past the MAF, which will cause a lean mixture and performance problems. The two times I cleaned the old TB on my 2008 I used paper towel strips. I know, living dangerously. It's just that they are more maneuverable when way down there laying on the floor of the intake manifold. I have an extra long forceps to place and retrieve the strips and it gets rid of that curious liquid that accumulates down there.
    A word on cleaning the throttle plate and spindle (or butterfly). Patrick has wisely cautioned any aggressive soaking of these parts. Solvent with a full load of carbon from your wash down can seep along the spindle into either the throttle motor or the throttle position sensor and gum things up there. Not good. But again, me living dangerously, I have used a folded piece of paper towel to act as a wick. I placed this on the underside of the spindle near the wall of the TB to draw the dirty solvent out of the joint. I only use small amounts of solvent and cycle the throttle a couple of times between extractions until clean solvent comes out. I know, extra cleaning of those parts was probably not worth the chance I took possibly fouling the electronics or causing a seized throttle. Dangerous stuff.
     
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  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yeah air leak past MAF is bad car will be very unhappy.
    Paper towels are disaster. With cloth T shirt don't need forceps and can soak away.

    Its very easy.
     
  11. Yakoma

    Yakoma Active Member

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    Would you guys recommend cleaning the MAF while in there?
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, remove the mass air flow sensor from the air cleaner housing, and spray out the sense wires and amber bulb with MAF cleaner.

    My personal method to clean the throttle body is to use 91% isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips to swab out the throttle body interior and throttle plate. No worries about debris left behind or excess cleaning fluid going where it should not. Since my method is not recommended by Toyota, use it while applying your judgment and at your risk.
     
  13. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    O.K. An old thread, but it's my old thread....so....

    Easy Rider 2 wisely advised me to wait until spring to do any of this....and, spring has sprung here, sort of. At least I am not afraid of shaking uncontrollably from the cold as I try to do this work while standing in the full brunt of the "open plains" wind on an outdoor concrete pad!

    Just another question or two. I have my handy Home Depot special metric socket set and a few screwdrivers. I intend to do the MAF and throttle body cleaning since I am still not too happy with my ICE idle.

    At 62K (car brand-new to me in 2008) is it worth going ahead and doing the PCV also. Looks like a bit of fussing, but if no one thinks it is necessary at 7 years of age and 60K miles, I will spend that time doing something else. :whistle:

    Oh, I should say, THANKS AGAIN to all who answered this thread (and any of my others). I am still amazed that years ago I could not figure out how to change the cabin filter and now I am thinking of cleaning the throttle body, MAF and replacing the PCV.

    I would name you all and invite you all to Iowa for a summer corn feed (which is apparently a big deal here, since people at work are already talking about it), but, I guess virtual hugs will have to do (you all know who you are!).
    Kris
     
    #13 cyberpriusII, May 2, 2015
    Last edited: May 2, 2015
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Unnecessary at 62K miles. Wait until you get to 120K miles, then you can replace the PCV valve at the same time as the iridium spark plugs.
     
  15. AzWxGuy

    AzWxGuy Weather Guy

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    Agree with Patrick. When you're doing the plugs at 120K you have the wiring harness over the valve cover loosened and this will allow pretty good access to the hidden PCV valve on the right (facing) side of the engine. That is when I did mine on my '08. Even then, the PCV sounded (rattle-rattle) clean. Of course you will be using MAF cleaner to clean your MAF. It is easier to clean when it is removed (two phillips screws) and then you can check the integrity of the O-ring around the MAF-to-air cleaner assembly fitting. A rough idle might be due to air incursion either at this seal or lower down where the air cleaner assembly clamps to the top of the throttle body. Hope you can angle the vehicle so you're working down-wind behind the hood.
     
  16. Easy Rider 2

    Easy Rider 2 Senior Member

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    I assume that is sweet corn.;)
    I have inlaws scattered around Iowa but don't get up that way very often.
     
  17. sosarahsays

    sosarahsays Member

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    Giving this thread new life for the third time! How did cleaning your throttle body and MAF go, cyberpriusII?

    I took my Prius to the dealer yesterday and they said "BG THROTTLE BODY SERVICE" and "CLEAN MASS AIR FLOW METER" were "recommended" but not necessary right now. (My car has about 47,500 miles.) I told them I am planning to drive cross country in a few months (moving from DC to the Bay Area, wooo!) and they said I probably wouldn't even need to have it done before then... I guess I appreciate their honesty and the fact that they aren't unnecessarily draining my wallet, but I think I'd like to take care of it if it would improve my cross country performance and save me money down the road!

    So, question: I assume Throttle Body Service is just a cleaning? Should I contact them and make sure? If so, someone linked to these instructions in another thread: Cleaning Prius Throttle Would instructions for DIY on a Gen III be pretty similar? Also, I think somewhere on PC people said cleaning the MAF is pretty easy, too. Could a novice like me reasonably be able to perform both of these DIY? Thanks in advance!
     
  18. Yakoma

    Yakoma Active Member

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    If you have wrenches and a little patience, a can of throttle body cleaner and a can of MAF cleaner, you can do it. The hard part is gaining access to the parts you need to clean. The actual cleaning is almost as easy as spraying from the can. The throttle body can take some "polishing" but you don't want to touch the MAF at all.

    So, if you follow the directions from this site, you can do it...but it appears you can wait another 50k miles with no worries. Might as well change out the air filter while you've got the pieces apart.
     
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  19. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Kris here.

    I think I would agree with Yakoma. Seems like it is a bit early to need that stuff done.

    If you take off the top of the air filter box and look down, you can see the throttle body plate as well as the MAF. You can't see the MAF that well, but if it looks pretty clean, you should be fine on that....look around at threads here about it. There are pictures of dirty ones and clean ones. You can see well enough, with just the air filter box open to see if you need to clean it.

    The throttle body is also amazingly easy to see. Just look down past the MAF. A bit of stuff, no big deal, but if it looks like more than that, well, it is a bit of judgment call...

    Anyway, once you get past the "Oh no, I will ruin my car" thing, which is what I think each time I open the hood...:whistle:...it is actually a pretty easy process.

    If you clean the throttle body, you have to take out the MAF so you might as well do it too. and as Yakoma said, if you are there, you might as well change the engine air filter also.

    So, if you do it:

    1) Have a can of CRC throttle body cleaner and a can of CRC MAF (mass air flow) cleaner. Though people disagree on this, I only use them on their intended parts.

    2) Have a new air filter ready.

    3) No need to remove the entire air filter black box, but it would make it easier (I did NOT).

    4) Open the air filter box and remove air filter

    5) Remove MAF

    6)Clean MAF

    7) Clean Throttle body....

    You get the picture. It really is pretty simple and the rough spots at idle I was having seem to have disappeared. Of course the weather had been much colder, so maybe that had something to do with it.

    Good luck,
    Kris
     
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  20. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    O.K., I read this again and just realized you are talking about a Gen III. don't have any idea how much that is the same or not, but again, at your miles, I would doubt anything is needed.
     
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