toyota transmission fluid story

Drain and fill is the correct method, when you go to the parts desk for 4 quarts of WS-ATF, also get two crush washers.

My dealer charges $109, so not all are intent on robbery

 

"I plan on doing the 4 quart drain and refill next weekend myself. just wanted your thoughts as prius experts. and do you think that there is still a significant amount of old fluid left in the system after the drain and refill method?"

No...not like "regular automatic transmissions" where at least 30% of the old fluid is left in the torque converter. As stated, drain and fill is good for the Prius.

 

Hmmmm
Did the Tech say or mean "inverter"?

Transmission drain and fill as discussed in previous posts.

Inverter coolant change is a different procedure with different fluid. (Many posts for this DYI) Maybe this was why the shop was quoting you $300. That would be a fair price for BOTH transmission fluid and inverter coolant change.

 

im doing mine this weekend at 200,000 miles..there are tons of you tube videos that show everything you will need to do....I rebuilt the battery on my last prius using the info from here and U/T so the tranny service should be an easy job

 

The transaxle drain and fill is about a 20 minute job. Very easy DIY. 24mm socket, 10mm Allen head socket, 4qts WS ATF, 2 crush washer, medium funnel, 2-3' of hose no greater than 1/2" od, and a torque wrench set at 29 ftlbs. Just did this Monday @50k on the odo. As previously stated great how tos on PC and YouTube. No way would I ever believe the advertised lifetime fluid statements from mother Toyota. They had the same position on their Sequoia's ATF, I never listened there either.

 

Toyota's idea of vehicle lifetime might be much shorter than your idea - if you are a conscientious owner and want your car to last more than 150K miles. After all, they need people to continue to buy their new cars...

 

Toyota Master Tech here, "Specialized Procedure"? Yeah right!! There's nothing to the transmission. No converter, no external fluid cooler, no solenoids. I've never charged more than half an hour to drain and fill a Prius. Maybe an hour tops if doing the Hybrid cooling system too. And that's still slightly longer than it really takes. I bet they were going to try and sell a "Flush" service.

 

The transaxle DOES have an external cooler.

 

I believe that's the inverter coolant loop.

I believe the transaxle is cooled by passages in the ICE coolant loop.

SCH-I535

 

Then, why is the drain right near the transaxle fluid drain?

 

Yeah, you're probably right.

Maybe I'm thinking about something I read in the Nissan Leaf thread, but that would also be the inverter coolant loop.

SCH-I535

 

The coolant loop runs through the transaxle to cool it.

It is very important that the coolant be changed, too.

 

Yup, that's not transmission fluid running through it. All coolant. The ATF gets cooled by the SLLC running through the transmission then the radiator and finally the inverter. Hence, it's cooled internally, meaning the trans fluid never leaves the transmission. And yes, changing ATF can be done with the coolant. Their drain plugs are close enough to each other and it's the same procedure for both systems. Drain and refill.

 

Well, the transaxle change takes me at least an hour. I'll spend at least 1/2 hour getting the whole car level on jack stands, and get the whole underpanel off (my pref).

But there's nothing overly complicated.

Addendum: For a professional with a lift, it's a lot simpler/easier.

 

It's called Job Security.

 

Has anyone added Lubegard Platinum to their WS fluid during a fluid change. I recently did a D&F on my 05 with 100k miles and added Lubegard. Would be interested in thoughts or experiences with any Lubegard products. Thanks.

Thinking about a D&F again at 105k miles either due to possible Lubegard issues (possible, though Lubegard reps have noted that Priuses are good with their product) or just to clean it out since it was the initial transaxle fluid service.

Also, I noted that generally 15% viscosity loss is noted at 30k miles. So is there any real benefit to change it at an earlier interval, say 10k or 15k?

 

I believe that the viscosity loss stabilizes after 30K miles. The only reason to change the oil at 30K miles or at an earlier interval would be to get dirt/debris from the initial manufacturing process out of the system.