Parking bulbs/Side Marker 10A Fuse Frustration

Hello,

I recently replaced the front and rear parking light with matching LED T10 bulbs (10smd 5630 LED 5W).

This one: 2 x Car LED T10 194 168 W5W Signal Turn Wedge Light Bulb Lamp 5630 10SMD Yellow | eBay

Obviously the front ones are amber/yellow and the rear ones are red. When I installed them, they ran fine. then a few days later, I noticed the lights were out (rear parking+front parking+licenseplate+glove box). So i checked the fuse. it was blown. I bought spare 10A fuses. I inspected the bulb socket and the front ones looked a bit copperish. Rear ones looked okay. So I re-installed the normal W5W Halogen bulbs in the front and things started to work again.
Few days later, same problem. All the connected lights were out. Fuse was dead again. So I removed the front halogens and tested only the rear LEDs. Again, fuse blown. So I realized that the rear ones were causing a high current draw and burning the fuse.

I replaced everything back to the halogen W5W by Sylvania (2825LL) and they are holding up well so far.

Now my question is, was I trying to use LEDs that happened to be too powerful for what I wanted? I read that each of the 5630LEDs operates at .5W and that would bring them up to 5W since it has an array of 10-5630LEDs. Is my assumption wrong?

Is anyone using a combination of 5630 LEDs that have lasted more than a few months? I am thinking there may be something wrong with my wiring if it can't handle these LEDs.
What should be the current draw on one of these bulbs? Since the Halogens are working without issues, I'm thinking it should be pulling that much current. But when replacing the halogens with LEDs the current draw is increasing beyond the 10A fuse's capabilities. Would replacing it with a 15A fuse work better?

Any ideas?

 

I was hoping that since the LED current draw is typically much lower, that I would end up running my lights in LED mode with lower power consumption mode (and definitely brighter than before).

The 5630 10-SMD LEDs are extremely bright for tail/parking lights. I put them on and they light up my garage bright red. The W5w halogens are a joke in comparison. So I was hoping to gain brightness and lower the power consumption. Apparently the RED LEDs I had worked flawlessly for a few months. So I decided to order matching yellow ones for the front when the front W5W went out. Everything was good for a while, and one of the FRONT yellow parking light looked as if it got burned out. I inspected the bulb and the socket but was too dark and couldnt notice the burn color on the LED bulb itself. I re-inserted the burnt LED Bulb and fuse blew out. Then it was a trial and error until I reverted to the old W5W for the front. Everything worked fine again, until I got another set of Front YELLOW LEDs (same 5630) and then the rear ones went bad. Just a series of bad luck.

So is my understanding incorrect about lower current on the LEDs? Am I getting bad quality LEDs ? If so, I should definitely point this out on the eBay seller's feedback just so that others are aware and dont make the same mistake.

Thanks,
joe

EDIT: I should also note that I have replaced the Flasher relay and installed a set of 4 CREE LEDs for turn bulbs which seem to be working flawlessly (knock-on-wood). Every time the lights go out, its just the parking LED fuse (so takes out the licence plate and glove box). I read somewhere that the ground cabling maybe shared and that the voltage drop when the turn bulbs are on, may be causing problem for the ground on the parking tail wiring harness. Is this feasible?

 

How about this: Does it make sense to learn the amount of current flowing through the bulbs using an ammeter (or a power supply)? I don't have one but I can order one. I can then check the incandescant bulb's current against the LED's and this separate the truths and the myths.