Prius Plug In Question

The plug-in capability does not prevent you from having a kick-nice person system. However, the factory head unit has some proprietary options for viewing energy and mileage like the display in the dash. Also it can change settings like auto lock the doors when you put it in gear, etc.

Polk Audio makes 6x9 and 6.5" speakers, both of which will fit your car with adapters.

 

It's funny...I am considering this as well...after telling myself that I was okay with the factory system lol.

You will need a line out converter (LOC) to go from the factory head unit speaker wires to the RCA inputs on the amp. Unless you get an amp with speaker level (high level) inputs. RCA's are known as low level. The best LOC's are powered (active) like the AudioControl LC6i. It has 6 channels - you only need 4 but they don't make a 4 channel.

As for speaker adapters, Metra has come out with some new universal adapters for Toyota. 82-8146 (for 6x9) and 82-8147 (for 6.5" and 6.75"). Notice when you google them that the mounting holes are slotted...the older style I tried last year wasn't slotted and wouldn't fit my 12 PiP. These might. I haven't tried them personally but I would like to.

Personally, I recommend a component set for the front - woofers go in the doors and tweeters go in the dash. Then coaxial speakers for the rear (tweeter mounted in center of woofer).

If you plan on cutting factory wiring then the crossover box (splits sound between woofer and tweeter) can go in the dash under the speaker. Otherwise to keep the factory wiring intact, you will have to rip the plug off the factory dash speaker, to allow sound to flow to the door speaker, then put the crossover there, then run the tweeter cable back into the car. However the alpine spr-60c tweeter & box is wired in parallel with the woofer (just like the factory speakers) so that was going to be my personal choice, to keep the factory wiring. Woofer in door, tweeter & box in dash, plug removed from factory dash speaker and soldered to tweeter box to connect it to both sets of wires (from radio and from door). Without that plug, no sound gets to even the door.

Amp can be stashed under either front seat. The jack is mounted under the drivers seat but I took mine out since there's no spare in the PiP. If I have to call someone to bring me my spare tire, then they might as well bring the jack too LMAO.

One last bit of advice...pick speakers then amp. If you want it loud then look for 100 watts rms per channel (or more...eek). If you just want clarity and a bit more volume then look closer to 50 watts rms. both amps and speakers are rated in peak watts (max watts) and rms. rms is the rating you want to look at and match the speakers' rms with the amp's as closely as possible.