Master Warning Light, Malfunction Indicator, VSC, (!), and Hybrid System Warning on Screen

Inverter water pump. See below:

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...ting/95074-darn-i-got-red-triangle-today.html

 

Did Toyota change that inverter water pump for you? its free. Other than that, have you changed your 12 Volt battery since you have had the car? :cheer2:

 

Put your 12v battery on a charger if you have one, before driving to the dealer. If the inverter cooling pump shut down, then so did the 12V DC converter, and the 12V battery has been partially drained. You can also check for proper inverter cooling pump function by checking the reservoir for flow/turbulence with the car in Ready.

 

Sean, for what it's worth, I never received a notice from Toyota, which I thought was sort of weird, too. Luckily I had seen it all over the place on PriusChat.

 

That's an interesting data point, that the DC converter will work once the inverter has cooled down, even with P0A93 in the system. Thanks for sharing your story and a positive outcome. You are lucky to have an honest and competent local dealership.

 

Was not actually a recall, I think it was called a Limited service campaign, or something like that. I learned of it thru PC. Another good reason to use PC:rockon:

 

I have a '05 with a 170K miles. I have already replaced the pump before the recall. I would say I have driven quite a few miles since the first pump replacement. However, I just had the same symptoms of all the lights including the car logo with a exclamation point on my Nav. screen come on. I can hear the electric motor /pump running after shutting off the car- A short winning noise from the driver's side. So, I'm not sure if it's the inverter cooling pump. I did noticed the engine cooling fan coming on more often recently than before.
I Just unplugged the rear 12 v. battery for about 10 min. and all the warning lights went away. I'll let you know if it comes back. If it comes back after few miles of driving, I can assume it may be the pump again. Is there a warranty on this replacement part? I'm probably out of luck if it is the pump.

 

Check your usual oil and coolant levels first. If the warning lights return, you should have it read for codes. I don't think it's your pump, possibly a coolant valve problem.

SM-N900P ?

 

No assumptions needed. Just make the car Ready and look inside the inverter coolant reservoir. There should be ripples on the surface showing fluid motion.

 

Update on the warning lights issue after reset--
The car drove fine. While driving, I did noticed that battery meter was doing funny unusual thing. One minute the charge was full to green then another minute, its totally empty- purple. The car seems to charge to regular blue bars. The lights came on again. So, I disconnected the battery and it went away. It drove fine for a short trip. Noticed the same erratic charging pattern going from full to empty. But this time, it wasn't charging or holding the charge compared to first time. Going up hill, the warning lights came back on and the car hesitated- lacking power. Also noticed the hybrid battery cooling fan running next to the right driver passenger seat. Continuing on , noticing more that the battery was not holding the charge although the engine was charging it. This was last night and I was going to scan the car next morning to see what kind or error message I would get ( waiting for the newly ordered OBD scanner).
This morning, I was surprised to find that the car didn't start. The remote and headlight worked fine. Check the 12V. and it read 12.4 V. So, I am guessing it's not the starter battery. Now, I can't even scan the car. It doesn't turn on- nothing.

At 9 years and 170,000 mi. Is this a classic sign of hybrid battery needing replacement?

 

Yes it is. You have gotten the full use out of that battery pack.

You can decide if you want to locate a used pack from a salvage yard, rebuild the pack yourself with newer modules, get a rebuilt pack from a commercial rebuilder, or go with a new one from Toyota. You might try Avi's Advanced Automotive in LA area for advice if you are not a DIY.

 

There shouldn't be any issue with the car scanning. It doesn't need to start to pull the codes.

 

Thank you everyone. What a comfort knowing that there is a forum like this to share ideas, troubles and solutions. On the subject of reading the error codes with the OBD scanner, there is no life when trying to power up the car with a brake on or off -no response, nothing. Is it possible to scan a car without the ready mode? virtually, the car is dead. By doing some research and getting some feedback from the forum, I've decided to bite the bullet and order the battery from rockauto.com It's a Dorman re-built battery. $1,350. Core charge was $1,080. Standard Fedex 1-6 day ground shipping was $52. This battery comes directly from Rock Auto warehouse in California. Either from San Diego or near San Francisco so I am guessing it will take about 2-3 day shipping. As a matter of fact, it was shipped out the same day with a tracking number. Dorman offered the longest warranty on the re-built battery based on my research- 3 years. The price from Rockauto.com was the least expensive for the same Dorman battery compared to other retailers. The shipping was also less compared to other retailers- $52. Vs. upwards of $300. No tax for ordering from Los Angeles. Out the door, it was about $1,400. I believe priusbuilder.com was about $100 less including shipping. However, the warranty was only 6 months. Therefore, I decided to order from Rock Auto . A Dorman battery for $100 more, I get a 3 year warranty from the company that seems to been around. I am going to replace the battery myself. For those of you who are handy, there are couple of very detailed instructional video on priusbuilder.com and a condensed version on rockauto.com. It's under the "info" within the actual part section by Dorman. It looks to be a straight forward process with some caution during the disconnect and connect. Most of the labor during the stripping of the rear interior and trunk area. I will keep you posted after the exchange. Let's hope it starts! Thx. again.

 

The car should not be dead, is your 12v in good condition?

That's a great price for Dorman, thanks for the info

SM-N900P ?

 

I've tested the 12V. Aux. battery with a volt meter and it was good at 12.4V. By the way, the the Optima yellow 12V. battery is gong on its' 5th year now. For those of you needing to replace the Aux. battery, I highly recommend Optima yellow battery. I'm not sure why the car wouldn't light up. Maybe, the car has a shut off switch to preventing the car from being driven when the main battery is completely dead below "Purple" charging bar and unable to charge.
As for the delivery of Dorman Battery by rockauto.com, it was shipped out from Northern California on the same day (Wed.) Via. Fedex. and the tracking said that it's out for delivery today (Fri) to Los Angeles. So, those of you needing a main battery from Los Angeles area can expect the delivery in 3 days from Rock Auto. Since the stripping the rear end is the most time consuming task, I am going to start before the battery arrives.

 

There must be some loose connection, you will not have a dead car from a bad hv battery. It may not start but you will have lights on your dash, your radio should work.

Your yellow top at 5 years old, may or may not be functioning correctly, I would change that out. It would need to be changed in the very near future, why not do it now when you are putting in a new Dorman?

SM-N900P ?

 

The Dorman battery was delivered in the morning. It took 5 hours from start to finish.
When I tried to start the car with a new battery, it wouldn't start - Nothing. I panicked thinking maybe it wasn't the main battery which caused the problem and eventually a dead car.
Next, I inserted the remote key into the slot as a last ditch effort. The car came to life! The new battery started to charge. slow at first showing only 2 bars and when I took the car for a spin, the charging was normal. I read somewhere in the forum that it was not a good sign for the drivers to see full green bars to the top and that was not normal charging sequence. The normal full charge should only show 80%- like 6-7 blue bars. Before the battery failure, did see the car charging to full green for about a year. Maybe that is a sign the battery is getting old and it needs to be replaced. With a new battery, it only charges to 80% blue bars- which is said to be correct charging process.
Going back to the remote being inserted into the slot in order to start the car, I am wondering if the remote problem was there before the battery change. I did have the remote in my pocket instead of having it inserted in the slot on Wed. morning when the car did not turn on. If so, JC91006 might be right. Main battery problem should not have cause the car to die. The remote works to start the car in the slot- locks and unlock when the button is pushed. However, grabbing the handle or pushing the black button on the handle does nothing. I wonder if it has something to do with disconnecting the 12v. battery. Humm... It worked fine when the 12V. battery was changed out before - although I did disconnect it 3 separate times. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Does it need to be programmed again with the new main battery? Is it the 12 V. batt. disconnect or does it have anything to do with disconnect and replacing the main battery. How can I get the touch control and the remote working again on the car? In the end, so far, no warning lights and the car charges and drives fine. Thx.