installing fumoto valve

I used the Fumoto washer that came with the valve. Haven't any issues so far (installed at 5K miles, and then got to use it at 10K miles, very handy). I was on a gravel road (actually a highway under severe construction) and hit a sizeable 'rock'. Thought the valve got it, but it hit the other side suspension arm. Was doing 30 MPH and no 'real' damage, only scuff mark. I think it's pretty sturdy and a great addition for the do-it-your-selfer. It really doesn't hang down much more than the drain bolt, and you do have to move the lever in 2 axes in order for it to drain. Seems like it couldn't open on it's own unless you were 4-wheelin'! Drive fun, drive clean, drive Prius!

 

what is the part number for this?

thanks,
drew

 

The possibility of road hazard damage stops me from getting the valve. One rock can smash the valve and dump all the oil. Presto, one engine ruined. It's much harder to damage a bolt.

I've asked Fumoto to consider an all stainless steel version, which should be much more durable than brass.

 

F-103, comes with a washer gasket. Fumoto.com

 

Fumoto valve? The regular drain plug works just fine. If it ain't broken, don't fix it.

 

Sorry, as an engineer..."if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet". I find that some technology does make for an easier life. You just have to choose which tech is for you. I have always changed my own oil and this valve makes it that much easier. I'll be the first to admit , though, if the technology I choose somehow fails or does not live up to it's promise, then out the door it goes. Love my Prius!

 

I have 2 questions:

1) Doesn't it get dirt ? so when you open and close the valve there's always a possibility of some dirt passing to the other side when you close the valve

2) Did anyone remove the valve after draining all the oil to make sure that it does indeed let all the oil drain ?


Thanks!

 

Yep, the underside of any car gets dirty. I wipe down the valve before opening. No problems after 7 oil changes.

Removing the valve would negate the fact that u don't have to 'remove' anything (the old drain bolt) when changing oil! Nope, never removed the drain after install.

Hope that helps.

Love my Prius!

 

Yeah i know it would negate the valve function... but i was hoping someone actually checked to see if it prevents all the oil from draining (one reason i see if the threads go above the inner thread)

 

Wow. How did you decide on a Prius, I wonder? Walking wasn't broken. Neither was horse-back riding. Neither was the standard internal combustion engine vehicle. Hand-crank windows? Manual door locks? Mechanical brakes?

Yet here we are with the Prius, and a chance to make one of the icky jobs just a little bit easier.

 

Everything gets dirty down there, but it is on the far-side of the valve and will get cleaned out with an oil change. No chance of it passing to the other side when closing - afterall, that valve is tight-enough clearance where it won't leak oil... what is going to pass it the other way that wouldn't get in if the drain bolt were removed?

At most, the drain holds back a thimble-full of oil in my exerperience. Don't fool yourself into thinking that you EVER get 100% of the oil out. Not possible. The percentage is BIG in your favor though! Most oil places only drain for a few seconds, then refill. If you let it drain for several minutes, you're WAY ahead of where you'd be if you paid somebody else to change the oil with the plug.

 

From reading from different threads and forums:

1. Those that have used and removed the valve have found the valve drains no less than the plug.
2. You can get a hose clip for the valve if you’re going to be driving in extreme conditions such as farm tractors and logging equipment. The hose clip can be purchased at any hardware store; will firmly keep the lever in the locked position at all times.
3. It is approved by major motor vehicle manufactures including Freightliner, Kenworth, and Peterbilt.
4. It has been granted “Genuine Part†status by five major motor vehicle manufacturers in Japan.
I have one and it appears to be a well manufactured and does not appear to be fragile. (I should get a commission for this.)
Kathleen

 

But, it IS broken! I can't tell you how many times I've dropped the stinkin' drain plug into the drain pan! :angry: That, and the fact that no matter how careful I am, it seems that the drain plug finds some way to drip oil on the floor, or pick up tons of dirt or sand from the garage floor. Plus, I've never been good at that timing thing, pulling my hand and the drain plug out of the way quickly when the oil starts coming out. The Fumoto valve can be opened slowly, allowing you time to get everything positioned properly for less mess. I love it!

 

The tow truck company I worked for has used the Fumoto valve for over 15 years without a mishap, including working in some rough, rocky situations. And the bolt is broken! Not only does it aim for the oil pan so you can fish it out, the threads wear, which necessitates that crush washer, to help hold it, hopefully anyway. Before the Fumoto, sooner or later someone would cross thread the bolt, causing damage to the threads, usually slow dripping, and, if not discovered, possible loss of the bolt.
I also plan to install an Amsoil dual filter kit, with the bypass filter as well as use synthetic oil after the second oil change, to make sure the engine is broken in first. I have used this kit on my other vehicles and change oil once a year, in the summer.

 

Hey Finman, where did you get the power lumbar air for the seats?
I had one in my previous car, factory, and it was great for back support and comfort, especially long trips! And I agree on that Fumoto valve, as noted.

 

My opinion is that any rock that is of sufficient size to damage the fumoto valve can also potentially rupture the oil pan itself.

 

Been using the Fumoto for 11 years on all my rigs, I run a lot of POOR roads...more like rock and mud goat tracks really, also a lot of ice, snow.

Here are my observations:

1) I'm stubborn. Change out the oil every three months. Over the life of a rig that's a lot of stress on the oil pan threads...good chance of stripping it out eventually....Who knows what bad mood I am in when I do a change and decide to take frustrations out on the drain plug

2) With four-to-five rigs at a time, it takes a lot of my day when it comes oil change day. The Fumoto SIGNIFICANTLY eases the process, makes it much quicker, etc....plus I don't have to remember "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" while lying upside down under the rig.

3) Easy to remove a few ounces for analysis, or for adjustment if for some reason you overfill.

4) Had one failure just a couple of weeks ago...Dec. 22... It was the first one I bought. Not a leak, just the opposite. I tried to open the Fumoto valve and it was really tough, finally got it open and oil started to flow. Came back some 40 minutes later and the flow was down to a small drip.

Closed valve and continued with oil change. Checked the dip stick after the change and couldn't get a good reading...not unusual with this rig. Started engine, looked underneath, no leaks. Took rig for my standard half-mile run after oil change, still no leaks.

Checked dipstick. Oil appeared to be two quarts over. Tried to open Fumoto valve again, very difficult. Finally removed valve, let engine drain overnight and replaced the Fumoto with the original factory plug, which I had kept.

Since this rig is probably soon to be going to Toyota heaven, I'll probably not replace with another Fumoto, but if I was going to keep it for more than a year, I would...

 

Did you ever determine what the problem was with the valve?

 

I bought a similar valve from qwikvalve.com a couple years ago. I guess it is the same as Fumoto valve. Before I installed the valve, I once spoiled my oil pan by stripping the oil drain threads and spent a couple of hundred bucks to exchange...so, it is good idea to have this kind of valve for the oil drain plug not only for making oil changes easier but also getting rid of such unexpected expense.