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2005 AC Condenser Replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by miscrms, Apr 1, 2014.

  1. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Hey all,

    Am planning to replace the AC condenser in my '05 and wanted to see if anyone had any comments / advice. AC has been out for about 2.5 years, which has been a bit of a struggle here in Phoenix ;) Cost has been the primary reason for not fixing, dealer quoted about $1000 back when it originally failed. Decided to just bite the bullet and do it myself, really need to get it working before facing another summer. The problem was originally diagnosed at the dealer, who found a hole in the condenser where a rock or piece of road debris had been kicked up into it. It was fairly clear where the hole was from the accumulation of "gunk" in the area. Assuming this was AC oil collecting at the location of a slowish leak. It didn't just quit all at once, it got gradually less effective over a number of months.

    Given how long its been inoperable, I'm a bit concerned about figuring out how much oil (if any) may be left in the system. Also hoping the the compressor is still ok, would appreciate any thoughts on how to check its health before repairing / recharging.

    Given the threads / documents I've read do far, here is my preliminary plan:

    - purchase Mini VCI (planning to get this anyway) to check for codes related to compressor or?
    - purchase techinfo subscription for access to manuals
    - purchase dual gauge set from Harbor Freight for $50
    AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set
    - purchase venturi vacuum pump from Harbor Freight to use with air compressor for $16
    Vacuum Pump - AC Vacuum Pump w/ R134A & R12 Connectors
    - purchase Interdynamics HYB-2 R-134a charge cans with hybrid oil ($61 for 12, hoping to find individual cans somewhere.

    - purchase replacement o-rings for lines in and out of condenser, and for drier / modulator cap (need to identify part numbers)
    - already purchased a replacement condenser through ebay for about $75

    - replace condenser per manual, swapping over cooler drier from old condenser and replacing o-rings
    - vacuum down system, check that it holds vacuum (overnight?)
    - charge system

    Any thoughts / guidance would be appreciated, while I'm moderately handy and have done a variety of auto maintenance / repairs in the past this will be my first time working on the business end of an AC system.

    Many thanks,
    Rob
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    "not working for 2.5 years in Phoenix" :eek:
     
  3. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Yeah, it hasn't been much fun, for me or my HV battery. But that's another story for another time ;)
     
  4. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    One can not overstate how downright fussy the work on Prius AC needs to be. Very fine attention to detail is required. I suggest you search for posts by Lech Automotive Air Conditionin (sic)
    lech auto air conditionin | PriusChat

    He is the local expert on Prius AC, and is not too impressed with the Interdynamics oil, when the ND-11 from Toyota costs 10X more. So you take some risks with the cheaper stuff. But I for one would be curious to know how it works out, if that is what you are going to do.
     
  5. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    I too would suggest you search out all of the posts here on PC that were made by lech auto that nh70 linked above. He seems to know the most about the Prius A/C.

    Like other systems on the Prius, the A/C is something that is real particular. If it was my car, I would let Toyota do the work. But that is just me.

    Let us know how it works out miscrms. I too could not imagine being without A/C in Phoenix. It is bad enough here in Houston.

    Best of luck to you!

    Ron (dorunron)
     
  6. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Thanks, I have come across a number of his posts and they are very informative. Still have more reading to do. I realize I'm taking some risks with non-oem condenser and oil. Will definitely share what I learn, even (particularly) if it just turns out to be "don't do what I did" :)
     
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  7. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Make sure you pull a good vacuum on the system and don't forget to install a new dryer. Toyota condenser comes with the dryer. Not sure about yours. Best of luck, and keep us posted.
     
  8. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    So... after more reading it seems like I've really got two choices on the oil front.

    1) Make a guess as to how much oil needs to be added. Without disassembling the whole system it doesn't seem like there is an accurate way to estimate how much oil was lost. The repair manual specifies 1.4 oz of oil should be added when replacing the condenser, so that's probably the baseline. It will be interesting to see if there seems to be anything like that amount in the old one once its pulled, though I'm uncertain as to how easy it will be to drain/measure whats in there. If it seems much less than that, I would take that as a sign that more than the base 1.4oz needs to be added to account for loss.

    2) Flush the whole system repeatedly with an appropriate solvent and work on the assumption that all of the oil is removed and therefore needs to be replaced. I've read some concerns about the expansion valve state during flush, but assuming I don't have any evidence of compressor damage my primary goal is to flush the oil out of the compressor without having to remove it. Sound feasible? I was looking at using something like this attached to my compressor:
    Interdynamics FK1 - A/C System Flush Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts
    Still need to read up on the best choice of solvent.

    Best I can tell complete replacement seems to be about 5oz of oil, ~3.4-3.8 oz when replacing the compressor and 1.4oz when replacing the condenser.

    I will also likely replace the drier sock, and have verified its in stock locally. Sourcing the oil seems like the long lead item currently.

    Also, I did check last night and it does not appear that the compressor is running. I'm assuming this is due to low pressure, but will wait and see what the mini VCI says when I get it. Assuming it confirms the compressor is disabled due to low pressure, I may go ahead and try the test procedure shorting pins 1-4 on the pressure switch plug momentarily just to verify signs of life from the compressor before starting to tear things apart.
     
  9. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Update:

    Got my mini-VCI up and running last night, what a cool tool!

    I did verify that the AC ECU is reporting a B1423 pressure switch DTC, so that would confirm that the AC compressor should be locked out and not running. Also got a B1421 solar circuit reported, not sure yet if that's real or just because it was dark outside ;)

    Hopefully will get to work on things this weekend, will try the test procedure to briefly short the pressure sensor to see if the compressor comes on. No errors were reported or in history related to the compressor, so hoping it will turn out to be ok.

    Since I've now tracked down local sources for all tools and materials (local NAPA carries hybrid compressor oil in stock) I'll plan to wait and see what the oil situation (quantity, color, and presence of particles) looks like when I pull the condenser before deciding how to proceed re flushing or just replacing and adding oil.

    Rob
     
  10. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Let us know how it all works out. Remember the oil and refrigerant levels are critical. Too much or too little of either of those two things might cause problems.

    Best of luck to you.

    Ron (dorunron)
     
  11. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Replacing condenser seemed to go well, but having trouble with the recharge. Had 2 12 oz cans, expected to put in one whole can and a bit of the other to get to the recommended ~16oz. First can started loading fine, got nice and frosty. After pressure switch closed, started running the compressor to circulate. Toward the end of the first can it stopped feeling cold, indicating it was no longer charging and the pressures were no longer rising although it felt like there was still fluid in the can. To be sure I swapped in the second fresh can, and it never seemed to get cold / charge any more at all.


    Pressures are about 15 psi low, 125 psi high. Can see bubbles in the sight glass, and vent temps are about 44 deg on max cold / medium, about 52 max cold / high with outdoor temp around 72.

    Any thoughts as to why it would stop accepting charge only part way through like that?

    Rob
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The spec is as follows. 0.2 MPa = 29 psi and 1.47 MPa = 213 psi:

    Low pressure side:
    0.15 to 0.25 MPa (1.5 to 2.5 kgf/cm2)
    High pressure side:
    1.37 to 1.57 MPa (14 to 16 kgf/cm2)


    I was wondering what you used for a vacuum pump to evacuate the system prior to recharging with refrigerant, and how long you ran the pump?

    I was also wondering whether the compressor might be damaged due to the long period of idleness and being exposed to ambient air. It might be time to seek professional help on the refrigerant recharge and to see whether any other parts have failed.
     
  13. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Interestingly I hooked it back up this morning and it continued to fill. Not sure what was going on there, but think I'm getting close..
     
  14. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    Dis you replace the orifice tube and screen? It might be clogged.
     
  15. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Update: Looking promising! Sight glass cleared at about 200 psi on the high side. Continued charging about 5min more, ending up at 25 psi low, 215psi high. This is with the doors open, fan temp max cool and tech stream used to manually set compressor at 6400 rpm. Tech stream reporting evap temp at 36.5 deg, thermometer showing 39.7 deg at the center vent. Outside conditions are about 80 degrees and overcast, humidity sensor showing 25%.

    May still need some more charge, but decided to stop there for the moment. Not sure exactly how the ac controller sets compressor rpm, but starting to think it modulates rpm to maintain evap sensor at about 40 degrees?

    Last night with charge still low it was running compressor at 6200-6400 rpm when set to high fan max cold. With current charge it runs closer to 3600 rpm with same settings. In this state the pressures are reading 32 psi low, 165 psi high. Evap temp sensor reporting 39.7 degrees, center vent thermometer at 42.9 degrees. Site glass is still clear.

    This would seem to be the test conditions specified in the TIS documentation, which would indicate the pressures are still a bit low. Given the operating temperatures I'm hesitant to add more refrigerant and risk over charging though.
     
    Patrick Wong likes this.
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It seems to me that your high and low pressures are good now. The spec assumes the ambient air temp is higher than you reported.

    Test conditions:
    Temperature at the air inlet with the switch set
    at RECIRC is 30 to 35°C (86 to 95°F)
    Blower speed control switch at ”HI” position
    Temperature control switch at ”MAX COOLD”
    position
    A/C switch ON

    Fully open doors
     
  17. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    You NEVER stated if you replaced the "orifice tube."

    The symptoms you stated are consistent with a restricted or blocked orifice tube.

    If you can first get only a small amount of charge into the system, it means that the refrigerant is not getting past the orifice tube.

    In time, when the system is idle, the system equalizes "backward" to distribute the refrigerant.

    Then, you can add more, even to the point of a full charge.

    But since the liquid refrigerant is not metered to the evaporator, there is not adequate expansion of the refrigerant to a vapor. Vaporization of refrigerant picks up heat.

    In a traditional refrigeration system this operation is performed by a "thermostatic expansion valve."


    Unfortunately, if you system does not cool, you will have to discharge the system and replace the orifice tube.
     
  18. miscrms

    miscrms Plug Envious Member

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    Only things replaced were the condenser (with drier), o-rings, refrigerant and oil.

    Based on the temperatures currently being reported by the evaporator temp sensor I'm assuming this is ok now. You could be right about that being the problem last night. Although it was blowing coolish with a partial charge, I'm fairly sure that the evap temp sensor never reported anything much below ambient until this morning.

    To answer Patrick's question, the vacuum on the system before charging was probably not great. Was using the cheap "pump" linked above, which either wasn't working very well or was too much for my little compressor. It would only pump down for ~60s, then I would have to close the valve and disconnect the pump to let the compressor pressure recover. I was only able to maintain it at about -0.75 bar, probably about a 30% duty cycle over about 30-40 minutes.

    Will keep an eye on things, but hopefully it's fixed for now :)
     
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The 40 degree F temperature that you reported at the air outlet is pretty good, not great; considering ambient air temp is only 80 degrees F. If you should find that the system starts to give you problems as the ambient air temp increases in the summer to 120 degrees F, I suggest that you either buy/rent a better vacuum pump and/or air compressor as needed; or else have the local Toyota dealer do the system evacuation and recharging process.

    These two websites suggest that the vacuum needs to be continuously applied for at least 30 minutes.
    Air Conditioning FAQ
    Automotive AC Information Forum - ACKITS.COM

    See my post #17 here:
    2008 air conditioning barely working, any tips? | PriusChat
     
  20. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    For evacuating a car system, the inexpensive air driven venturi type vacuum pump is just fine.

    You stated that you had a complete set of manifold gauges. If the system was drawn down to 99+ %, and the desiccant bag was replaced in the accumulator, the vacuum pump did its job.

    The only reason for continuously applying a vacuum pump to the system for 24 hours is to "evaporate" or draw the moisture imbedded into the components in the system.

    I still suspect the orifice tube. If the evaporator develops frosting, it will be a dead giveaway.