Help with Check Engine Light Issue/Codes

Hi Steve

There are plenty of examples of random brand-x code readers giving false readings when used with the Prius. The only code in your list which I can find in the engine ECU is the P0101, the rest I believe to be false readings. The DIY's here get the mini VCI code reader (for laptop use) which is $30 on eBay and elsewhere, and which gives complete diagnostics. I would encourage you to pick one up and insure the codes are accurate.

If indeed the P0101 is real, then cleaning the MAF sensor would be a first step. Check the air filter. Look for any signs of leaks in the intake manifold. Check all fluid levels. How are the spark plugs? Until you get better info, it is a bit of guess work.

Also, no need to hit the post button more than once. There is a bit of delay but it works.

 

Is the cel coming on the dashboard or on the mfd?

Inverter coolant pump bad-no pump activity viewable in Invert coolant reservoir
Or logging a misfire due to corrosion in sparkplug well
or bad coil on plug either cop is bad or boot is cracked
or low on oil or coolant
or throttle body extremely dirty
or its not the engine at all and Hybrid battery is having issues (that would throw a nag on the mfd) and will exhibit
the racing engine
and if MAF need to be replaced the engine would barely run so don't go there.

Be aware when a Prius throws a check engine light its not fooling around. If the car is very important to you I would take it to the dealer and have them interrogate it with there Techstream software to decode the cel. They usually charge one hour labor. There are many lower cost alternatives but would take time to acquire. The dealer will give you printed readout with CEL decode. Pay special attention to Hybrid Battery report.

 

None of the DTC listed by the OP are valid Prius DTC except for P0101. It is unfortunate that the OP wasted time by replacing the fuel injectors.

I suggest that he return the OBD-II reader or else throw it as hard as he can into a trash can.

It would not hurt to remove and clean the MAF sensor. It would be better to have the DTC read with the appropriate device (such as Mini VCI) to have a clue about what is going on.

If the OP is under a time constraint then the best bet would be to have the local Toyota dealer's service dept retrieve the DTC. Good luck.

 

Hello Steve,

Welcome to Prius Chat. As has been illustrated your attempt with the "OBD" reader you bought was pretty much an exercise in futility. If you want a good scanner that will cover everything, get the mini vci that has already been mentioned. Another scanner which does work with Prius is the ScanGage II. Be aware the mini vci has more capability that the ScanGage.

I also recommend a trip to your Toyota dealer. Most of the time, for one hour diagnostic they can tell you exactly what is wrong.

Best of luck to you and again "Welcome to Prius Chat"!

Ron (dorunron)

 

Could be any number of things. With a good code reader as referenced above, you can determine where the problem lies. Try googling mini vci and check that out. Available on Ebay for a low cost.

Best of luck to you,
Ron (dorunron)

 

Sounds like the Hybrid battery. Is it fast charging and fast discharging?

I suggest you take it to the dealer asap as your in Cali and they have 10 year warranty on the HbBatt. You could ride out of there with a new Hybrid battery for $0....
Driving around with a poorly performing HBatt is very stressful to the engine & trans. And will eventually leave you on the side of the road with a large tow bill.

 

It is premature for you to assume that the traction battery is the problem. If you see a red icon in the upper left corner of the MFD that either shows a battery, or shows the outline of a car with an ! superimposed; then you would have to consider the possibility that the traction battery is the issue.

Given the warning lights that you posted, the issue may be less costly. Rather than guess, you need to obtain the DTC via Mini VCI and then we can help you to figure out what the root cause is.

 

Can a weakening 12volt battery cause these issues. I had something similar happening a couple months ago and based on info gleaned here on priuschat I replaced my 12 volt. $170.00 was the quickest/cheapest I could find. Luckily that was the solution to my problem. It took me a little over an hour to change it out, slow poke that I am.

 

My Autozone cel code is p1150 which can be either CHS storage tank problem or airflow sensor. Does anyone have experience with this code and it's resolution. Thank you.

 

DTC P1150 means that the coolant coming out of the coolant heat recovery canister is not as hot as it should be. The temperature sensor at the output of the canister or the engine coolant valve are suspects. If the car had been hit in the driver's fender, the canister itself is suspect as it may not be keeping the engine coolant hot enough.

In a PM, you asked why the coolant level is dropping. Obviously that needs to be investigated. You need to look at the coolant level in the radiator itself, as well as the overflow tank. A common reason for a coolant leak is a leaky bearing in the engine coolant pump. If that is not the cause, look at the radiator and heater hoses and inspect the plumbing to the coolant heat recovery canister (raise up the left front corner of the car, remove the tire, and remove the front of the left front inner fender liner for access.)

 

great info, thanks. all the best!

 

My check engine came on and now my car is using more gas then anything.

 

Sell it.