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Viscosity? We don't need no stinkin' viscosity...

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Mr Incredible, Mar 25, 2014.

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  1. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    Oil Viscosities.JPG Recently we had a civil, if short of fact, discussion on the value of viscosity. The question was posited as to the true value of 0w-20 and 5w-20 in our C's. I've always been one to ask Why?, and was taught many years ago to question those that say "We always did it that way." or "Because the book says so." When working on an aircraft, things are done by the book. The book has the experience of thousands of engineers and maintenance gods. Routing messages over a military comm line, you take your addresses out of a book that gets updated every night at 0001hrs. You never route from memory - you always get the address out of the book. But what about maintenance from the Toyota book? Books from different countries and regions differ in their recommendations for the same physical vehicle. Other things will obviously work and not damage the vehicle. But you don't know anything about oil, oil types, oil weights, or oil viscosity? What to do?

    What to do, indeed. Where in that maintenance manual must you do precisely what it says and where is there a "suggestion" or "recommendation?" Sometimes it's spelled out or is obvious. A sparkplug size would be pretty much a specific thing. Fuel octane is not written in stone, and you CAN use any of several different octanes. Tire size is variable, as is inflation pressure. But, obviously, there is a range of sizes that work and some that don't. You don't HAVE to wash, wax, and clean inside and outside of your vehicle, but if you want it to last longer and look better it would be a good idea.

    How much you follow the book would be a function of how much you know, how much experience you've had stretching the recommendations, and sometimes just plain old observation.

    Which brings me to where I was headed...Oil, and oil viscosity as it relates to our C's. I have attached a chart of various oils and their viscosities. Our prior conversation touched on the maintenance recommendation (more like the insistance, with stink-eye) of using 0w-20 in the C. I raised the idea that this particular item may be flexible. That idea was not universally accepted.

    Taking a quick look at the charts in the attached file, you'll see two tabs. One tab has the oil brands and weights listed in order of cooler viscosities, the other has them listed in order of operating temp viscosities. The 0w-20's are highlighted in green, the 5w-20's in yellow, and a single 5w-30 added in red for a reference.

    Checking the cool oil order of viscosity, you can see which might be most mpg-efficient if you drive in the city or your engine most often sees cooler temps. Looking at the hot driving tab you can see which oils might be most mpg-efficient if you drive mostly on the highway or your engine is always warmed up and ready to go.

    These are all numbers taken from the manufacturer websites this week, so they are recent numbers.

    But what I find most intriguing and thought provoking, as it relates to the maintenance manual oil viscosity heavy-handedness, is that the viscosities of the 0w and 5w 20w oils OVERLAP. This is most evident in the hot driving tab. Imagine the heads exploding seeing an actual 5w-20 has the lowest hot viscosity! Oh, and look at the alternating viscosities after that one.

    Read this part carefully - I am not telling you how to maintain your car. I am not telling you what to do. If you want to go by the book, I DON"T CARE. Go for it. But if all you are going to do is blindly repeat the maintenance manual and give no further reasoning...go back into your hole. I am not interested in Absolute Maximum Effectiveness or MPG. That would be an opinion or a statement impossible to prove due to the myriad control points. Make a statement, defend your statement.

    Now...discussion?
     
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  2. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    Good data. I recall prior data the Toyota synthetic looked good as well.
    What you might want to look for is A5/B5 ACEA rating on the bottles, which I believe is the best rating with respect to longer drain intervals. However, the lower viscosity 0-20 and possibly even 5W-20 for the most part do not seem to qualify for the A5/B5 in the USA last time I looked. I never had a chance to look at the Toyota synthetic bottle to see if they might have the A5/B5 on there.
     
  3. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    A quick check of some of the oils, but of the seven I've looked at not one of them is A5/B5 rated. The ones that were rated were A1/B1, and the others not ACEA rated at all. Yet, no complaints have been heard from 10k mile intervals for the M1 extended performance, or the M1 0w and 5w-20 M1 and M1 high mileage. I'll look into it more when I return from lunch.

    "A5 / B5 - For use in high performance car and light commercial petrol and diesel engines designed for low viscosity oils where extended oil change intervals are specified by the vehicle manufacturer."
     
  4. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    Question Authority.....
    ...unless you're swinging wrenches on aircraft. :)

    I find it interesting that most of the (inserting air quotes) "experts" who write 1,000 word, flame filled posts on how this oil or that filter is the only one that you should use in your car are people who trade their cars in at 50-80k miles.

    Me?
    I know better.
    My beloved company operates a wide variety of vehicles ranging from my humble Prius to the larger F450 buckets. Their philosophy is simple.
    BARE minimum maintenance, and when the odometer = the mean distance from the Earth to the Moon in miles.....sell it to some sap that thinks that they can "save big" by buying fleet vehicles. :eek:
    So....mostly?

    It.
    Doesn't.
    Matter.
    Unless......you're one of those increasingly rare people who put 300,000 miles on the car before you consider trading it in.


    YMMV! :)
     
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  5. Indy John

    Indy John Member

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    Great post! Thank you! All discussions about motor oil should begin with facts. Some time back a link was offered on this site for "Let's Talk Motor Oil" by Dr. Ali Haas. He's a long-time Ferrari owner and poster on FerrariChat.com. Among his many opinions was that since viscosity varies greatly with temperature, you can't know what you "need" unless you know what your sump temperature is under the conditions you typically drive in. It may be, for example, that since most Prius owners drive conservatively, their sump temperature seldom reaches the 100 degrees C. test temperature, and the actual viscosity of our 0W-20 may be most often nearer the 10.0 viscosity that modern engines were designed to use (another of his opinions). It may also be true that if most engine wear occurs within 15 minutes of cold start-up (a commonly-held belief) while the motor oil is warming up from its cold viscosity of 40 or more, our 0W-30 synthetic may be doing us a great favor through better flow and lubrication. Dr. Haas' belief that cold-temperature flow is more important to engine longevity than high-temperature viscosity (where different label "weights" tend to have similar numbers and behave alike) feels right to me. I look forward to more facts and discussion.
     
  6. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    Who ever knows how long the ride when they get a new car, wife, or anything else. The '89 CRX I had prior to the C had 288k miles on when it left my driveway. I had only put a few on it, but it was still a viable car that would get out of it's own way. Would the guy in MN have thought it would have been a 300k mile car when he drove it off the lot?

    I've learned to take care of my stuff over the decades. Cars, tools, wives, children, friendships...they all require care and maintenance. And proper maintenance requires a desire to know and a certain amount of bravery.
     
  7. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    Well stated.
    The CRX was one heckuva great car BTW.... :)
     
  8. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    Dr Haas' oil info is truely enlightening, but geared towards those who operate their cars towards the edge of the envelope (sanity?) At that point there is little slack to be had, and being able to crunch the numbers is mandatory if you want to keep your $750k grocery getter. I wouldn't think that our C's engine is very stressed or abused, even when floored over and over and over and over. The redline shows as mid-4grands, and that ain't nothing'. The only REAL stress it would see is starting it up in sub-zero weather and mashing the gas to the interstate and repeating daily. Viscosity numbers at that place would be very much a thing to know and watch.

    But anywhere else, is it really all that big of a deal? Really? We've seen or heard of cars that are severely abused and neglected going over 200k miles, or maybe Uncle Joe's car had cheap oil replaced at extended intervals by more cheap oil, yet lasted long and left the driveway for the next owner under it's own power.

    How much of an issue is it to put in a heavier oil over the winter? Wear at startup? How much is too much, can you quantify it (other than maybe UOAs) and where do your habits bring down the pointer?
     
  9. Dan Lovell

    Dan Lovell Junior Member

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    You all over think this. Just use what Toyota recommends: 0w-20. Done. I prefer Toyota branded oil because it has a great reputation per UOA's.
     
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  10. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    But why? That's the question. As mentioned before. Back up your thinking. Do you do it because the man tells you to?
     
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  11. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    ..upload pic of Toyota 0w-20 bottle to see if they say ACEA A5/B5 rated.
    Anyone? I promise to "like" it...
     
  12. H. L. Pony

    H. L. Pony Junior Member

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    Mr. Incredible, I really appreciate your effort in putting some actual facts up for discussion.

    I've said it before and I'll say it again, oil is a commodity product. If it's the correct grade and it meets whatever specifications the manufacturer requires for their warranty, it's good. Just change it when it needs it and don't worry. The spread between the thickest 20-weight oil on your chart and the thinnest just isn't that great that anyone should see any remarkable change in their car's performance.

    And furthermore, most cars don't fail because of anything oil related. How many rusted out junkers do you see still traveling down the highway? For a personal anecdote, I've owned 12 vehicles in my life. Of those 12, I drove 6 of them all of the way to their ultimate demise (the rest were sold or traded in). Of those six, none went to the junkyard because of engine failure. Four of them were driven to the junkyard. What killed those six? Serious electrical problems got one. A busted coolant hose and a serious case of overheating trashed another. Rampant rust did in a third. The other three just got really old, ugly and embarrassing to be seen in. From my experience, we should be having major debates about rust prevention and coolant hoses.
     
  13. Dan Lovell

    Dan Lovell Junior Member

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    Yes, partly yes. I do do it because Toyota says to, but that's not the only reason. I like Mobil One 0w-20 a lot too, same for Pennzoil Platinum. Toyota makes the best cars, so I put some weight into what their manual says.
     
  14. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    That's all that was asked in the OP's post. Just back up why. Thanks.
     
  15. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    These are examples of what I was attempting to avoid. Agreed, it makes for a short thread, but there it is.

    "The Correct Grade" is subjective. Correct grade, per what? Maintenance book? What about summer, winter, severe duty, mountains, long periods of activity/inactivity, etc? Does it even matter? That's what started this whole mess. Blind obedience at face value with no ide of the 5 W's plus a How. Quantification, Man, that's what we're waiting for.

    As for WHEN to change oil, same thing. Intervals are always selected for a very good reason: payday, blind obedience, severe duty, the perception of "better," oil was on sale, "Winter's Coming." etc. Is there an ideal mileage/date/ moon cycle? By whose reckoning?

    Your cars could all have met the same fate if you used a different oil, oil weight, manufacturer, or change interval. The question would be, how much change to what variables would yield approxmately the same result.

    My contention is that....nobody will ever know. Precise life cycle per oil weight, brand, bottle color, or change interval can never be known. The point being, blind adherance to a maintenance schedule would be sufficient, but so is changing early, changing later, and using different or the same oil weight. Short of totally abusive behavior, What Difference Does It Make?

    And if anyone can quantify an argument against that, I'm all ears.

    With all this going towards the idea that it's rude to fight over oil weights and change intervals. Practically anything will do, and it doesn't take a Toyota engineer to tell us that.
     
  16. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    One of my Fraternity brothers had a 74 Lincoln that he owned for 100k miles and never once changed the oil. The car had 350k miles on it...
     
  17. Easy Rider

    Easy Rider Active Member

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    I was in full agreement with your position, and mostly still AM but...................

    A few days ago I heard a seasoned "real" auto mechanic say:
    "If you have hydraulically operated variable valves, then you had better stick with the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer".
    Now that is a factor that I hadn't considered before.

    I am absolutely sure that a slight deviation from the recommendation....5W20 versus 0W20 for a short time will not cause any lasting harm but after hearing the above I lean more toward: Why NOT use what the book calls for ? I mean really WHY NOT ?? I don't think that there is a good reason.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I use Toyota 0W20 because:

    1. It's cheap.
    2. It's got a decent reputation (don't really know squat about oil, just saying)
    3. I'm at the Toyota parts department getting the drain bolt washer and oil filter cartridge, so everything's on one bill, good for paper trail. They do offer Mobil as well, but the price is more-or-less double.

    As to the preferred weight, that is a bit of a head-scratcher. In different parts of the world, Australia for instance, I believe a heavier multi-weight oil is spec'd. I'm sure at least part of the reason for 0W20 is to milk maximum mpg rating. It'd be be interesting to switch, say to 5W20, for one change, and see the impact. I suspect the latter would help engine longevity, though again, don't really have a clue.
     
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  19. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    Your post is guesswork and supposition. There are no numbers.

    We have already seen the C capable (and authorized by the company) of using from 0w-20 to 50w oils, depending on regional temps and oil availability.

    But, if the C has VVT, and if the world-wide C family can use each of the oil weights I have previously show it
    capable of using (depending on regional temps) how tempermental can VVT in the C possibly be? Perhaps there are some vehicles with VVT that really need to watch their oil temps/viscosities, but is the C one of them?

    Does that old mechanic always use such dire sounding generalizations? Does he really know anything, then? How do you know that he knows what he's talking about, if you don't know what he's talking about?

    And about that Why Not Use What the Book Says? I'm not telling you not to. I don't mind. If you don't know why you might do something different, and when to do it, then those people SHOULD go by the book without thinking about it.
     
  20. Mr Incredible

    Mr Incredible Chance favors the prepared mind.

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    That isn't what was asked...

    But while I'm here, I have Pennzoil Pure Plus 5w-20 standing by for the next fill. I will get UOAs for this fill and that. I'll likely go to a 30w after that just to see what the deal is.

    I think watching the heads explode will be entertaining.
     
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