Won't go into Ignition Mode (video)

Start with the easiest thing and measure the 12V battery voltage with a voltmeter.

Also, try measuring it at the front jump terminal (in the main fuse box under the hood) while someone else tries to start it. Look to see if the instantaneous voltage plunges down to something really low like 9 volts or something.

 

This wouldn't be a combination meter problem, would it?

 

Strange errors and inability to get the car to start are normal signs of 12V failure. There may be other problems, such as low oil, which you should also check.

 

probably loose negative wire. Make sure all your connections are tight. Or you coud have a rodent problem.

 

1. Check the AM1 and AM2 fuses. Use an ohmmeter to verify fuse continuity, do not rely upon visual inspection.
2. Check the IG1 and IG2 relays. "Check" means that you remove the relay, apply 12VDC to the coil terminals, and measure continuity across the switched terminals. Use the ohmmeter to figure out which terminals are which. Replace the relay if resistance across the switched terminals exceeds 0.5 ohms (after accounting for resistance in the ohmmeter leads.)
3. If the fuses and relays are good then the power source control ECU is probably at fault.
4. You will need to look both at the main relay/fuse box near the inverter in the engine compartment, and the relay/fuse box under the instrument panel on the driver's side, to find these fuses and relays.

 

There is only one fuse box under the hood, which is the main relay/fuse box behind the driver's headlight and next to the inverter. Perhaps your owner's manual may be of help if you still need guidance.

If not, subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com to find the electrical wiring diagram and relay/fuse box maps.

 

Check the AM2 fuse again. Did it blow again?

If yes, then you'll have to look at the electrical wiring diagram to see the various circuits downstream from that AM2 fuse. One of them is causing the problem.

If you are uncertain as to how to isolate the problem circuit then you should seek professional assistance. Good luck.

 

I watched your you tube video. Was wanting to know what you your thoughts are on the scanner you are using.

Do you feel it cover's all of the Prius codes, or just the engine codes.

Just trying to get a feel of what you think of the Innova scanner that is in the video you posted.

 

Disconnect the inverter coolant pump wiring harness connector. Then replace AM2 and see if it blows or not.

If not then you can feel comfortable that by replacing the coolant pump, that will take care of all your issues. Also note that pump was the subject of a recall so if you had not already had this performed, you might be able to get your local Toyota dealer to take care of this at no charge to you.

 

Good, the 2G inverter coolant pump change is easier than the engine coolant pump change. One reason for that is it is much easier to purge air out of the 2G inverter coolant loop.

 

Thanks for the info. Let us know how the inverter pump swap goes. Too bad the time has expired on the recall they issued, if I am understanding your post above correctly.

 

A little labor-savings idea that occurred to me after writing my guide, is that you may find it easier to remove the new pump from the metal bracket that it sits upon, and leave the original metal bracket in place when removing the old pump. There isn't a lot of room to pull the old pump out, and it may be easier to remove if you don't have to also deal with the metal bracket.