replacing CFLs with LEDs

Same here - we often use amazon over ebay ... but we use the amazon prime account, & that way we get free shipping (plus many free movie streams )
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One instance where LEDs *really* make a lot of sense over CFLs is in recessed can lights. These are usually horrible air leaks, they can't in many instances by insulated against. Pull them out, seal the hole, and replace them with a thin LED fixture, and you will save vast amounts (I estimate about $25/year per can light) on heating (and some cooling).

Otherwise, my recommendation is to replace CFLs slowly starting with those in 'rugged service' and high use fixtures. And dispose of those CFLs properly! I hope I don't even need to mention incandescents.

 

He isn't talking about using the screw in replacement LED bulbs, but LED specific fixtures. There are airtight cans for specific LED lights, and some can mount to a basic junction box. They can be more costly than the bulbs.

 

yes this is a great dichotomy with both CFL and LED lighting. They can be severely shortened in life expectancy when subjected to too much heat. I too, discovered what Corwyn was talking about . . . . with heat/coolness being sucked in through the attic via uninsulated can light fixtures whenever the central heating/AC would run. We threw the uninsulated can fixtures out - and installed properly insulated can fixtures. The only trick now is to make sure we use led's that are rated to withstand being installed in insulated fixtures.
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I installed a recessed LED assy in the bayh shower ceiling. It's been 2 years and no problem with heat build up. IIRC, I bought this at a local Home Depot.

DBCassidy

 

Right. I was talking about removing the cans altogether. The LED fixtures I was talking about, mount directly to the ceiling and are only about 1" thick, giving close to the appearance of a can light. They are designed to cool to the sides.

 

Unfortunately, the one I saw in my quick search was a little over $100 at Lowes.
New construction has options for airtight boxes. There are some airtight cans for remodeling but you need to be more careful with bulb selection.

 

My house has no recessed can lights. I've eyeballed some flat panel surface mount types, but haven't yet sprung for one.

But last fall I did replace several non-recessed ceiling fixtures with the recessed-can-like LEDs that fit into most standard 4" junction boxes, and have grills that stick out less than a half inch from the ceiling. So far we are happy with them, despite their trailing edge lumens/watt rating (650 lumens, 12.5 watts). Unfortunately we also had the lower volume phenolic junctions boxes that these fixtures didn't fit, so I had to perform laparoscopic surgery on the ceiling to retrofit new boxes.

These lights didn't appear to have a true air seal, instead I did my best to seal the j-boxes. (Most of the original boxes had been sealed eight years ago, putting a noticeable dent in our energy bill.) Now I see another product that does have a true air seal, though with the same trailing edge efficiency. And yet another, 900 lumens for 13 watts, that sticks out closer to a full inch and shouldn't require me to change the small j-boxes.

 

One other thing about LED's - in reference to garage door openers . . . . if/when the door is blocked & you attempt to cycle the door down - it'll automatically go back up ... and many models will flash the opener lights. They flashing cycle is too quick to permit the diodes to turn on - untill the flashing cycle stops. I hope that doesn't have a life shortening effect on the LED's ... because they're not cheep.

 

THey do make, air tight, insulation coverable recessed can lights. They are required by code in some jurisdictions if installed in ceilings that normally require insualtion. Consider the wattage rating of the cans. A typical can might be rated for say 150 watts. That is roughly 150 BTUs. A 15 watt cfl or led would be about 15 BTUs. The poer supply may have trouble in an enclosed can light, but my guess is that the can is big enough to dissipate the heat just fine. At best you are not going to burn the house down, but merely shorten the life of the led or cfl.

Icarus

 

I am confused by what you appear to be saying. Diodes are *extremely* fast in responding to changes in voltage (hence their use in computers). Far faster than incandescents (which you can't even notice 60 hertz with). Is there perhaps something going on in the lamp?

 

150 watts = 0.150 kWh / hr (*3412 BTUs/kWh) = 511.8 BTUs/hour [not BTUs].

 

True dat! BTUs/hour. (not to mention my late night math (as ususal) was error riddled!)

Thanks for the correction(s)

Icarus

 

FWIW, the "new" plastic 'spoon' LED lamps from Phillips are LIGHT in weight, BRIGHT in lumens, and very LOW in heat!

 

Here's a nice little jewel we've been using for about 1/2 year now - From your local Lowes:



Advertising they emanate light equivalent to a 40watt/300 lumen bulb - I find them WAY brighter than that. My 1st thought was to use 'em in a half dozen mini cans we have under our kitchen cabinets, and under our bar counter. I needed medium screw base adapters, which were pretty cheep on line. Anyway, At a paltry 4.5 watts - we save a boat load. After buying the 1st batch, we've also installed 'em in our garage door opener - as well as our fridge we have in the garage. Woo hoo !!!
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