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Troubleshooting a red triangle

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by saxteacher, Feb 9, 2014.

  1. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    Hello - this is my first time posting a problem here. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

    I have a 2008 Prius, with SKS and Nav, and 103,000 miles on the odometer. I bought it from the original owner in 2010. So far it has been trouble free, with just oil changes and scheduled maintenance.

    When I turn power on, I get a red triangle with exclamation point. Also a row of yellow indicator lights. Also along the top of the LCD display there is a red car shape with an exclamation point on it.

    I followed the procedure for checking the voltage of the 12v battery using the diagnostic screens, using the procedure at weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-the-battery.73400/
    and I got 11.8 volts.

    Since it seemed likely that my problem is related to the (original OEM) 12v battery, which is now 6 years old, I took my handy jump-start battery thing (see photo below) and attached its red alligator clip to the positive post under the hood, and the black clip to the frame. I hoped that would allow me to start the car, but it did not start. The error lights on the dash were unchanged.

    Question 1. Does the fact that the symptoms remain the same after I have connected my jump-start battery mean that the problem I'm having is NOT my 12v battery?

    I then hooked up my cheap OBDII code scanner (see photo below) and checked for codes. It found none.

    Question 2. Does the OBDII scanner not finding any codes have any importance? When people write about having their car towed to the dealer and having error codes read there, does that refer to OBDII codes, or are they referring to some other type of codes that can only be read by a dealer?

    While I was in the diagnostic screens, I found three screens of error codes. The screens are called DSP-AMP, EMV, and NAVI. See 3 photos below.

    Question 3. Do these error codes have significance?


    Finally, further background on what led up to this red triangle, in case anyone with more technical knowledge can give me info on how I might have caused, and might be able to fix, this.

    I followed the guide at Son of PriUPS for using an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) to power my house during power outages. The idea of the priUPS web site is that instead of buying a big gasoline powered generator, which is noisy and requires maintenance, it is cheaper to buy a big UPS which uses batteries that delivery 240 volts DC (same as the HV battery in the Prius). This UPS can be fed 240VDC from the Prius, which is a much quieter and more efficient generator than one that people buy to use during power outages. In addition to the author of priups.com, several others have used his method to carefully hook up their Prius to the UPS in their basement, thereby powering their lights and heat during outages. None of them has reported doing any harm to the car.

    I finally hooked mine up the other day, and sometime after I connected the HV battery of the car to the UPS in my basement, that's when the red triangle came on.

    I doubt that I damaged the Prius, since I protected it by mounting both a fuse and a diode in the cord connecting it to the UPS, to prevent overtaxing it or sending any voltage the wrong way. But I do realize that by tapping into its HV battery, I might have either broken something, or caused the car to sense something unusual going on and shut itself down. Now that I've disconnected the UPS from the car, I would like to know if I need to reset some sort of code in order to get it to start again.

    One suggestion I got was to disconnect the 12v battery for ten minutes to see if that clears things up. Will try that in the morning.
     
  2. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    Unfortunately I couldn't post any of the pictures I was referring to... or even a link to a picasa web album containing my pictures... because I don't have enough posts on PC. Will try again tomorrow. :-(
     
  3. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    If I had enough posts that PC would let me post a link, I would mention that the pictures are at PriUPS
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. It would be a good idea to replace the 12V battery as a preventive measure since the voltage measurement is so low. Depending upon the battery's condition, the jumpstart pack may not have sufficient power.

    2. If the 12V battery voltage is too low, the ECUs will lose whatever DTCs have been logged. Exceptions to this would be the skid control ECU and SRS ECU. Further, a generic OBD-II code reader will usually not read DTC produced by many of the ECUs. If you see the hybrid vehicle warning icon in the MFD, it is guaranteed that significant DTC have been logged.

    Along these lines, if you disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes, that will be sufficient to erase DTC (except for the two ECUs mentioned above, which are unrelated to your current issue.)

    3. The codes that appear on the MFD have no significance and should be ignored.

    It is possible that the reason the Prius does not like your UPS connection is that a high voltage ground fault exists. That will prevent the car from starting.
     
  5. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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  6. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Use a drop in replacement. Putting in the D51 group is not necessary. Too many choices out there today to warrant the additional work of modding the Prius for the D51.

    Yellow Top, OEM, Exide, and O'Rielly Auto Parts all carry a drop in battery with the correct JIS posts mounted in the normal location with the vent hole.
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Not to mention your local Toyota dealer's parts dept. I suggest you call around and see where you can get the best price.
     
  8. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    I too suggest that the OP contact a local Toyota dealer's parts dept. That is what I did 13 months ago and am very pleased with the OEM battery I purchased.

    I changed the battery myself and have been maintaining it with a good AGM type charger that also desulfates. I keep it topped off regularly. I have also helped other's install the same battery and those who did were happy with the choice.

    The D51 was used in the past, but today the D51 is not the way to go with the Prius. There are now choices out there for a true drop in battery with no modifications needed for installation and use thereof.

    Not knocking the you tube video above, the following is more detailed and shows both removal and replacement plus other items about how to access the battery in the situation where it is totally dead and one cannot open the rear hatch.

     
  9. hkgngplugin

    hkgngplugin Junior Member

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    Your 12V is the first thing to replace. Do this first!
    On the other hand, your UPS thing missed one thing, a switch. You have fuse, diode, but also a switch. You gotta switch off the connection to your UPS battery before starting your car. Otherwise, your car detect a high voltage before “ready” and throw an error code.
     
  10. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    Thanks for your thoughts. I believe there are two reasons why this is not the case.
    1. I never plug the cord into the Prius until after the Prius is running.
    2. Even if I were to accidentally plug in the cord before starting the Prius, the car would not detect high voltage, because of the diode I mounted in the cord between the Prius and the UPS. A diode is an electronic component that allows voltage to flow in only one direction (in this case, from Prius to UPS). It prevents any voltage from flowing toward the Prius. So when I plug the cord into the UPS, turn the UPS on, and then use a voltmeter on the Prius end of the cord, the voltmeter shows zero volts. This proves that the diode is working correctly.
     
  11. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    Could you give me more information? What is a high voltage ground fault and what would cause that?
     
  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Not sure if I understand you here. There's no high voltage voltage flowing to the Prius.

    What are you protecting the Prius battery from with a diode? The INPUT of the Inverter is dry till you supply Prius battery to it. There's nothing coming back out of that input. There's nothing going to be back feeding into the battery from the Inverter so of course when you plug the cord in to the Inverter and there's no Prius battery feeding it it will have no voltage.

    Take the diode out of the wire and lessen the load on the Inverter. You probably put to much of a load on the Prius battery or used to small of a dc jumper from battery to Inverter. You probably put to big of an instantaneous load on the Prius battery and it threw a Battery ECU nag. Reboot the 12 volt.

    But first:

    Get the codes read by a Toyota Techstream software or equivalent. There will be a bunch if them. Hopefully you didn't smoke the battery ECU.
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The Prius design keeps all high voltage isolated from body ground, for safety reasons. If the traction battery ECU or hybrid vehicle ECU detect that a path exists from a high voltage line to ground, a DTC will be logged.

    Since you obviously had to connect cabling to the traction battery, I am suggesting that you need to review your work carefully to make sure that the cabling is isolated from body ground. The power input from the Prius traction battery to the UPS also needs to be isolated from ground.
     
  14. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    Actually, if you look at the pages describing the PriUPS system,
    here PriUPS Update 26 September 2005
    and here Prius Generator
    you will see that it does not simply plug the Prius HV battery in to the inverter (DC input) of the big UPS in the basement; rather, it connects the Prius HV battery in parallel with a 240 volt string of batteries that are in the UPS. That's why the diode is there; to prevent the 240 volts from the UPS batteries from flowing to the Prius.

    Could you tell me what "too small of a dc jumper" refers to? Are you saying the gauge of wire I used to connect the Prius to the USP battery string is too small? (I used the same gauge and length as several other PriUPS owners.)

    Now I understand - the correct procedure is probably to connect the Prius to the UPS before adding the load (house lights, furnace, and fridge). Makes sense!

    I am guessing that "reboot the 12 volt" means to disconnect the 12v battery from the car in order to reset some circuitry. I will try that.

    Since the car won't start, getting codes read would involve an expen$ive tow to the dealer and a ridiculou$ diagnostic charge. Rather than doing that first, I'm inclined to "reboot the 12 volt" and see if everything works. If the car starts, the question then will be whether to bother to drive it to the dealer and pay them to read codes, or just chalk it up to experience and assume that no more warning lights means no harm was done.
     
  15. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    Disconnected the 12v battery (by removing the negative lead from the frame) for ten minutes. Reconnected it and car started just as normal. Guess I don't need a new battery after all - at least not right now.

    Thanks everyone for your comments - and kudos to edthefox5 for identifying the problem and giving me the (surprisingly simple) step to fix it! :)
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well - before you declare victory here, have you managed to get the UPS to run while being connected to the Prius traction battery?
     
  17. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Been without power since Friday (Big snow and ice storm). Got it back this morning. Am almost interested enough to look into using my Prius as a generator, but I had enough trouble replacing the 12-volt.

    BUT, just to reiterate what EDTHEFOX said, the "generator" should be turned on before connecting to the items being powered (i've become quite good with using my little Honda 2000W, but glad the power is back, I was down to my last two gallons of primo unleaded)>
     
  18. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Just for reference purposes and a gentle reminder 11.8 volts is rather low for a AGM battery. That is in the area of 40% of full capacity. As you said, a 12 volt replacement is in your future.

    It would be wise to replace it before you end up in a situation where you are stranded. It often happens on a cold rainy or snowy night when it is most inconvenient.

    Glad to hear that "rebooting" the 12 volt cleared the lights up for you.

    FWIW, I too have considered the Pri UPS option. As of this time I am using a portable generator and a transfer switch for power outages.

    Best of luck to you.

    Battery SOC Chart.jpg
     
  19. saxteacher

    saxteacher Junior Member

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    You can see pictures of the wiring I added to the Prius (and all the wiring of the project, for that matter) at
    PriUPS

    There are two wires, which go from the two terminals of the HV battery to the two terminals of the UPS battery. That is all. There is no wire connected to ground or to the frame.
     
  20. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Well yeah if you have a string of battery's in parallel with the Prius battery that would prevent the battery string to feed back into the Prius battery but what does that have to do with your application? Your only imputing a single power source to the Inverter. Nothing to protect and now another thing to fail. Remove the diode.

    I only guess at what could be your issue as something is very wrong. Start with the dc wire. Keep it as short as possible. And a big as possible. How far and how big to Inverter?

    Yes bring Inverter online then add small load. Let it run for a while hour or two. Monitor prius battery temps.
    Gradually bring on load. Monitor how the Inverter likes it. Your in R & D test phase. Be careful and be aware and pay attention to burning smells as experiments gone wrong on this car are costly.