Toyota Auris Excel Hybrid UK with a flat battery again

- Push the Power button twice, no brake pedal, you end up in IGN ON condition
- Push the switch "CAR" on the Touch dash and keep it pressed
- Turn the light ring to the extreme low and high, 3 times in a row
- Watch the Touch screen: a black & white menu does appear; touch the option Function check/Setting
- Another menu does appear; touch the option Vehicle Signal
- Voilà.

If you start the car that way, you cannot change the screen (at least it seems to me) for other inputs; you should re-start the car to get rid of the screen.
If you start to drive, the said menu will keep screening the actual battery tension and the true vehicle speed.
Well.. once in Ready, it will show the current by the DC-DC converter...

 

Excellent purchases. I hope the ammeter will be able to read down into the milliamp range.

I also was content to remain clueless about the technical intricacies of Toyota hybrids until the first time that my 2001 had problems, around 2006 or so. At that point I decided I wanted to learn about them so that I could tell whether or not I was getting good service from my Toyota dealer. One thing led to the next, and it turned out that Prius ownership and maintenance has become an interesting hobby for me.

 

One issue with a clip-on ammeter is that you may not be able to see it when the hatch is closed. I also noticed that the spec is for 0.01A resolution.

When I was measuring quiescent current draw on the 2G Prius, my approach was to measure the current at the dedicated jumpstart terminal, located in the main relay/fuse box near the inverter. By removing the 10 mm nut on the stud there, the wire can be pulled up from the stud using long-nose pliers. Then the ammeter can be connected between the wire and the stud to show current draw.

This is also the method to disconnect the 12V battery without having to go through the hatch. As you probably know, once the battery is disconnected the electric hatch release no longer will operate.

The Prius hood (bonnet in UK) does not have a switch to tell the body ECU whether it is open or closed so the fact that it is open should have no impact on the current draw measurement process.

If you think this has relevance to the Auris, you will want to ensure that the hood does not have a switch on it. Good luck.

 

Hi all

Im from Spain and same issue here with an Auris Hybrid Advanced Confor (maybe there name is different as i have seen)

I have same problem when not using 3-4 days first time it happened to me, second time it was in dealer and left the car a monday and friday it does not start (replaced battery).

Second time at home it was 3 days without use, and it does not start. We carry the car with a truck and dealer says with onle 20 mins of start it was ok during 6 days without use.. i dont believe but.. well

Third time on monday this week, i was using the caer during sunday so less than 12 hours to fail

I know Toyota knows the problem but at this time i think not the solution

I will be a beta tester during next week with a "chip" incorporated to my car in order to log whats wrong.

Will keep you informed how it goes.

 

Here's http://home.4x4wire.com/deddleman/photos/battery_parasitic_load.jpg
An interesting bit of info, apparently Toyota states that anything over 50mA is classed as a 'parasitic load problem'. I bet they exclude hybrid's from that statement.

G...

 

Lead acid batteries "this includes AGM" have reduced output in the cold. This is because they produce electricity by chemical reaction. Chemical reactions are generally slower at lower temperatures.
As a point of interest I have fitted a mobility battery to my gen2 Prius, and a few others. This is only marginally deeper (from front to back) than the OEM battery, at 139 mm against 130 mm, otherwise measurements are the same.
This battery however is rated at 62 AH capacity. It is a true deep cycle AGM battery with vent and fits the Prius without modification to the battery tray. This has removed all concerns over leaving the car unused or using accessories without the car being in ready mode.

John (Britprius)

 

How much is it and wher do you get it? My 12v is just over 4 years old now and due a change.

 

Why would you change 4 year old battery if it's working OK? I expect it to last at least 7 years if I take good care (not drain it).

 

Because the word on here is that they last around 4-5 years or 80,000 miles (with the odd exception). I'm now at 4 years 4 months and 80,000 miles.

I look at it as a cheap insurance. Do I pay £100 and get a new one fitted which will keep the car happy until it's 8 years old or more? Or do I chance the 12v now and get caught out one cold, wet, winters evening?

My 12v is weak. The interior lights are duller when I open the door compared to when the car is in Ready mode. Despite me trying to look after it, the 12v also got a lot of strain when the car was used as a taxi. It had to power the computer and two way radio for hours at a time when I'd pop into the office for a coffee on those cold night shifts.

When I was young and foolish, I thought you could try and coax out a few extra weeks or months from a 12v, when really it would be easier and less hassle just to replace it. Remember, the Prius isn't an old manual that you can just bump start down a hill when your 12v fails.

 

I get my batteries from a company called "The Battery Bay" at Cannock Staffordshire. The battery is a mobility battery the only difference between it and the Prius battery apart from it's depth from back to front is the terminals. The fitting details are in my post. Fitting mobility 12volt AGM battery. If you need any more details PM me and I will give any information you need.

John (Britprius)

 

Interesting article, but it isn't gonna happen with me lol. Now if you lived down the road I'd get you to fit one and buy you a beer, but me and electrics don't mix.

You might want to post that link on the UK Prius forum as it would be of interest to taxi drivers who do deep discharge their 12volts on a regular basis.

 

GC thanks for the tip. If I lived down the road from you I would be happy to fit one for you. It only takes about 30 minutes from start to finish.
I do understand not everyone is comfortable with doing this sort of thing. I have done a number of these now within the Midlands, and Hereford my own being near two years old. Still producing the same voltage figures in spite of having some hefty test being carried out it. (Headlamps being left on in ACC mode two pushes of the start button for 4 hours) and the car still could be made ready without problems. Try that with the OEM battery.

John (Britprius)

 

Hi

I have been installed a car chip pro by my Toyota Dealer in order to catch my energy consumption problem

Letsee, now i have to wait to fail again Thats not so good, but they only "friendly" way to try to solve problem.

Any case similar in UK?

 

So John, did you say if there a similar battery to help our Auris HSD owning friends?

Might prove a quick fix for Toyota too.

 

As i have been reported when battery drains to 11.4 11.5 or above, car simply does not start. Not enough voltage level to feed electronic central , so car simply does not start. In my case battery was completely empty when arrived to dealer. So thats really strange