Plug in supply new install, alittle advice please

I have just removed my enginer phev kit and have started the install of a plug in prius kit I had purchase earlier in the year from here.

I have got the front control pcb installed and wired with the on/off switch, ice kill, obd2 cable, comms cable.

I do not need the ev mode wired as the car already has ev mode button being a uk vehicle.

I am going to install the rear pcb and wiring today.

Can I prove the system is working by completely wiring the system without fitting the batteries and doing a commissioning minus batteries.
If this is ok, what should I be seeing when it's wired, switched on and working.

Are there LEDs on the front and rear pcb's that indicate the status of the system, and will the system spoof the battery charge level without then phev kit battery fitted.

As I purchased the system used from here (although it was never used) I was hoping to test the wiring / electronics before I fit the batteries, and save time in case it's not working properly,

If all is ok I can then proceed and install the battery pack.

Many thanks for your support.

Regards, anthony.

 

Hi MJ,

Not sure what you mean by wired the 'ice kill' above. If you're referring to the wiring that toggles the EV Mode switch, then yes, that's required. If something else, please elaborate.

I havent wired that, didnt think i needed it as i already have an ev mode button, i will do that in the morning and have another try.​

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When i tried to test it today (obviously didnt work as i havent wired the ev toggle) i had a load of warnings on dash with the red triangle.​

I deleted a code that was network error, this came on when i pressed the ice kill switch (may be termed oog too) but the red triangle warning light will not go off, and no errors showing, although i am only using torque app and phone to scan with.​

I have emailed Robb and he hinted that maybe due to the hv cable connection through the hall sensor giving a problem. I shall have to check that tomorrow but i did follow the instruction on the PIS dealer site.​

What i did was remove the black wire from the live side of the contactor, pulled it through the hall sensor, added a short wire through the hall sensor, bolted to the contactor and used a bolt and nyloc nut and bolted the original black wire, short wire and pis hv long wire together, heatshrinked and taped. maybe have a look tomorrow if i canb re route differently to eliminate interferances.​

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Is there a way i can see the actual true SOC reading and the spoofed SOC reading with the torque app or can this only be done with a scanguage? If it does work tomorrow after i wire in the ev toggle, should i see the SOC on the display go green?​

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Many thanks for your input, its much appreciated.​

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best regards, Anthony.​

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Hi all

Update, received a pdf file form Robb at PIS outlining the front and ear pcb layouts, and some explanations of function.
I have removed the hv cable tie in to the stock hv battery to try to get rid of the red triangle.

triange still on, car drives fine. I jace scanned for trouble codes using torque app, that cant find anything.
I ordered techstream today, hoping to get that thursday, shall have a scan withthat to see if i can cance the issue thats brought on the red triangle.
From what i read today, the pis system wont run if theres an undefined trouble code warning, so i cant really do anything more until i sort out the triangle.
I did wire the ev toggle wire today and now the power led on the front pcb stays lit, which is what it should do, and the blue led next to it flickered once (tx comms) so i think its communicating with the obd2 system, just wont do anything else maybe as the red triagle is on.

i`ll update more when i get the techstream and had a read of the system codes.

Thanks for your help with this.

Anthony

 

Hi dan,

I have tried that a few times to be honest.

When i insert the key and press the start button with the brake pedal pressed, the ingition sequence starts then a problem indication, red triangle and no ready light. Recycle off and on again then the readfy light comes on, all other warning lights go out except the red triangle.
This happens every time, the ingnition ahs to be sequenced twice before the ready light comes on.

The only thing i did differently to the enginer connection to the oem hv battery was where the enginer connects on the dead side of the hv contactors, the pis hv cables connect to the live side.
I havent even got the phev battery in the car so the cables i`ve connected havent seen any voltage load running through them, they are just free ends with anderson plugs connected ready for the lifepo4 battery pack to be fitted.

Thanks for the advice, i shall try again tomorrow.
Will the techstream scanner and software see more of the ecu system?
I aso have a peugoet planet dongle and software for my disabled van and that is a great peice of kit fair play, id does do anything a dealer can (if you know how to use it)

Thanks

 

Hi Paul, I have today received a Chinese techstream dongle,but gutted too as the install cd and techstream software disc was broken in transit, I need to find a download from somewhere.
I have emailed the seller but they haven't replied yet.

Any suggestions where I can get hold of a link for a download for the install cd and techstream, I think it s the vci lite version 8.10 thanks

 

Update for you.

I managed to find a download for techstream and driver software, plugged it in and interrogated the prius ecu's.

I Am abit embarrassed to report what I found.

The Hv battery interlock switch error code. The handle of the switch wasn't pushed down all the way, I thought it was fully home, but it wasn't.

Thankfully the vehicle codes were reset and the car is now ok.

Even better, plugged back in the pis front and rear pcb,s and they are working, the phev led is alight and the operating relays are opening. I'm assuming this is normal operation, and I am going to continue to install the batteries tomorrow.

Thanks alot for your help, I'm sure ill need more help soon with this project.

Best regards, anthony.

 

hi John,

Well, the batteries are in, and i finished the cell log wiring to the relay pcb`s today. I used relay boards similar to the ones you used except my boards have 8 relays per pcb.

I am waiting on the charger, it is in the uk in the care of customs, i`m waiting on how much they are going to sting me for importing it. I got a zivan NG3 from the states, currently sset up for a ag charge curve to 268v.

I have contacted the Zivan uk dealers and they will send me a reprogrammed chip for £10 when i`m ready to tell them my final target voltage.

I`m hoping to take delivery of the charger by thursday this week, its all ready for it to be connected.

I have done 1 full charge cycle and discharge by using A LAB supply, it took a while to charge the batteries, but i managed to test the system and electronics, all is working as it should.

I covered 16 miles before the cell log alarms started, that was all in ev mode driving, some in ice kill mode. reached speed of 46mph in ice kill, didnt want to go faster than that as where i live and the journeys i do that is fast enough.

I could do with alittle help though.

I got a JLD404 meter set up in the vehicle with a 75mA shunt, i got it reading the pack voltage ok and quite accurate to be honest, but it doesnt read the amps correctly.
I have got the torque app running at the same time reading total amps out of the both batteries, and for instance, total amps would be 70 amps, and the jld404 is reading over 175 amps.
It would be best to get this reading correclty as to determine what amps are coming out of each pack, then guage that i am not overloading my pack by drawing too much current at any time.
Any ideas on how to solve this.
I have read the manual and it is less than helpfull, i dont know who wrote it but with the info in ot doesnt help at all.

Thanks John for your interest.

In the near future, once this is runing smoothly, i will be looking for a new project to occupy my time and mind, and would like to get into the arduinomite, and play with it, install a few temp sensors, and maybe a hall effect sensor to read the amps out of the pack and record.

I know you have a grreat project on the go, may be asking for some advice soon.
I`m assuming your written code will for the arduinomite will work with any phev system?
Thanks, Anthony

 

Yes I know, should have listened. Trying to do it in a budget, buy realising that this type of project costs can escalate very quickly.
Nearly there now, charger should be here Thursday, customs charging £66 import tax.

I'll try those adjustments today to the jld404 today.

What's your thoughts on a Hall effect sensor to an arduinomite?
If I buy a duinomite mega would it be possible to use your code?
Maybe add a few lines of program for temp sensors and the hall current sensor?

Thanks again John.

 

Thanks again John,

looks like a duinomite is a project that will have to happen then.

Ok, just to clarify, your basic program already calculates the ah in to the lithium pack, thus giving a good indication on the additional phev pack charge level, if thats ok, then no need for me to purchase the additional hall sensor.

Thanks.

 

Hi John, the pis board has got a connector for a bms signal, I ca wire up my cell logger alarms to that so when a cell goes low it will disable the spoofing.

Thanks.