More Transmission P locking Issues

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Sooo Shallow, Sep 15, 2013.

  1. Sooo Shallow

    Sooo Shallow New Member

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    I have read every thread I can find, I still have not been able to correct my problem. 2005 Prius 152,000 miles. Took it to my local guy for a new evaporator that had a hole in it. $600 labor, $230 for Toyota part. Not too bad I guess.

    Mechanic said I had a bad 12v battery, too. When I went to drive it home, got the P lock message. After a couple tries, it started and I drove it to gas station, where it started again, and then home.

    Next morning, same message. Read all threads. Replaced 12v battery. Bosch now makes one with 4 year replacement $180 Pep Boys in stock.

    Same problem. All indicator lights including red triangle. Beeps at me as if the fob is still in place, and I am no closer to getting started.

    I just put a charger on the battery in the event it wasn't fully charged from Pep Boys.

    Diagnostics read 12.3 V and then 12.0v with lights on....I thought that was OK but am trying charger anyway.

    Is it possible that the A/C guy did not plug something in or messed something up. Until he replaced evaporator...all was fine.

    Thanks for your input!
     
    #1 Sooo Shallow, Sep 15, 2013
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i have no idea, but welcome to priuschat! i'm sure someone will sort you out. all the best!(y)
     
    #2 bisco, Sep 15, 2013
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable where it bolts to the body.
    2. Make sure the positive battery cable and negative battery cable are securely attached to the battery.
    3. Fully-charge the 12V battery while the negative battery cable remains disconnected from the body.
    4. The 12V battery should measure 12.9V after surface charge dissipates.
    5. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the body. Make sure the bolt is tight.
    6. See what happens when you try to make the Prius READY.
    7. If you still have a problem you'll probably need to have the car towed to your local Toyota dealer for help.

    Good luck.
     
    #3 Patrick Wong, Sep 16, 2013
  4. Sooo Shallow

    Sooo Shallow New Member

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    Everything on list checked...same problems. Everything secure now...it was a little loose on the positive side, but no change after tightening.

    Hate to tow it to a dealer. It is just strange that jumping it worked for a day, and now, even with a new battery, it will not start.

    Anything else before I bite the big one?
     
    #4 Sooo Shallow, Sep 16, 2013
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well, you could try jumping the car once more. If that works, then you'll know the car is basically OK and you should look at the 120A MAIN fuse located within the positive battery terminal.

    Or use a digital multimeter to trace 12V from the battery through the MAIN fuse and see if you still register 12V at the dedicated jumpstart terminal located in the main relay/fuse box near the inverter.
     
    #5 Patrick Wong, Sep 16, 2013
  6. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Can you confirm the headlamps still work and that you have 12 volts at the jump terminal. If not try fastening the jump leads together (so you have one long jump lead) fast one end on the jump point and the other end on the positive + red terminal on the battery in the trunk. Make sure the joint of the jump leads does not touch the bodywork. Does the car now start.

    John (Brtprius)
     
    #6 Britprius, Sep 17, 2013
  7. Sooo Shallow

    Sooo Shallow New Member

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    I tried jumping it again with no change. I have 12.6v at the jumper terminal under the hood.

    Symptoms remain all indicator lights, red triangle, brake light, and beeping when door opens.

    I cannot figure it out....may be time for Toyota....
     
    #7 Sooo Shallow, Sep 17, 2013
  8. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    One extra thought. Over towards the passenger headlamp "for you in the US" there should be a single brown reasonably thick ground cable, running from radiator top bracket back to the engine. This may have been disconnected when AC work was being carried out, "worth checking".

    John (Britprius)
     
    #8 Britprius, Sep 19, 2013
  9. Sooo Shallow

    Sooo Shallow New Member

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    UPDATE....ALL IS WELL!

    A/C mechanic wanted to take another crack at the car before being towed to dealership. He took the dash apart again, unplugged and replugged all connectors, and the car started as if nothing ever happened.

    My guess is one of the connectors was not fully engaged, or some computer piece needed to reset itself, but whatever the case, it works now!

    He drove it 200 miles yesterday and I put another 100 on it today stopping at least 6 times, and runs just like it should.

    Thanks for your help!
     
    #9 Sooo Shallow, Sep 19, 2013
  10. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Happy things worked out for you.:)

    John (Britprius)
     
    #10 Britprius, Sep 19, 2013
  11. srivenkat

    srivenkat Active Member

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    Just curious: is there a reason to disconnect the negative battery cable where it attaches to the body as opposed to where it attaches to the negative terminal on the battery? TIA.
     
    #11 srivenkat, Sep 21, 2013
  12. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    It is generally considered simpler than undoing the battery terminal, that's all.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #12 Britprius, Sep 21, 2013
    srivenkat likes this.
  13. srivenkat

    srivenkat Active Member

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    Toyota isn't cool with this though.

    "Do not disconnect the negative (-) termi-nal on the body side as shown. The dis-connected negative (-) terminal may touch the positive (+) terminal, which may cause a short and result in death or seri-ous injury."

    Page 440 of:
    http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM47668U/pdf/sec_04_03.pdf
     
    #13 srivenkat, Sep 21, 2013
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Do what works for you. If you are concerned that the negative battery cable will reach over to the positive terminal and short, then observe Toyota's recommendations. This will require you to get a 10 mm open-end or box wrench up into the corner to disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.

    I think you would have to work quite hard to make a short happen. Toyota's recommendations are intended to minimize its legal liability in the event that someone screws up while following the Toyota guide.
     
    #14 Patrick Wong, Sep 21, 2013
  15. srivenkat

    srivenkat Active Member

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    Actually, the more likely scenario seems to be that the cable end disconnected from the body will end up touching the body or such anyway. In either case, the safer approach is certainly disconnecting at the battery terminal (and I should say Toyota took pains to do a picture with the negative cable disconnected from the body with a red X to dissuade people from going that route, as opposed to just text to satisfy the lawyers).
     
    #15 srivenkat, Sep 21, 2013
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