Over the past year, I have watched the supply of traction batteries in salvage yards fade dramatically. Prices have doubled. Last year, I picked up two batteries in Denver for $600 total. Now, they are $600 each. One of the better tools for measuring supply, car-part.com, shows only 7 pages now. By comparison, there are 32 pages of engines, since engine replacement is very rare. I personally have observed two failure modes. The first is like what happened to JeffD, where a single cell in one module failed, but the rest were good. This type of pack is a good core, as it is possible to recondition it. The others show signs of severe overheating, where the central pack modules have almost no capacity, and the outer modules have degraded somewhat but not terribly. Obviously, the latter have no value whatsoever as cores to put back into service. At this point, I would not recommend to anyone to simply replace a bad module. The only way to know for sure that a pack is rebuildable is to load and capacity test all modules.
I credit the limited supply to the Gen I's whose repairs can use the newer modules. quoting from the Luscious Garage site ......The modules come from young Gen 2 Prius (sourced from early totals or plug-in conversions) which have an upgraded design over the original Gen 1 module (pic: metal sided is Gen 2, all plastic is Gen 1) with better heat dissipation and lower internal resistance. The difference is evident in the cars we service: all Gen 1s will have an HV battery failure; Gen 2s rarely do (despite many with very high mileage). (Sept 2 2010) Anyway, thanks for the ongoing technical expertise.
Interesting observation that suggests that buyers are being found for these packs, but confounding factors cannot be excluded yet. E.g., we know that the packs reversibly age when they sit on a shelf. I wonder if these older packs are being removed from inventory. The earlier post mentioning G2 cell use in G1 Prius makes a lot of sense too. Something to keep an eye on, but for now $600 for a pack is still dirt cheap.
Thanks again for exposing another battery related issue. :cheer2: (The other being the 12V battery dissection in your avatar.) How far afield does your survey of available HV batteries go? I'm wondering if the paucity exists mainly in areas that experience numerous, and worse yet continuous, days of 100+ degF air temps… like where you are. A digression... As part of considering buying an EV, I've been doing some self- edjamacating on HV batteries, Li-ion in particular. I've come to understand that typical high temp failures, at least in those type of batteries, is the result of electrolyte breakdown from high internal battery temps. Which in turn leads to a non-ionically porous coating being deposited on the anode. (I hope i got the anode/cathode thing right!) And that's where the reduction in capacity comes from. Further, there is no way to drive the chemical reaction backwards, so the coating is permanent and the problem is terminal. Since arriving at my understanding noted above -- I sure hope its correct -- whenever I see a thread on potential HV battery issues, I look to the posters avatar to see where they are located. Most often its where extreme summer heat is typical...
Our experience has been similar in the last year. Used to be a used gen2 battery was good, with very few exceptions. We started seeing failed gen 2 batteries first in cars that spent their lives in the mountains. Now, we are seeing them across the spectrum. Given the relative volume of gen 2 cars to gen 1 cars, the future of rebuilding batteries is a lot more difficult if the gen 2s are bad. Our experience supports your suggestion, just replacing one weak cell in a battery pack will give you mixed results. It is imperative to load test and match every module in the whole pack. Eric Adopt A Part/MileHybrid Automotive.
Any idea how many of those failed battery pack have EV button installed? I have it installed in mine but uses it very carefully. I could see how someone could "abuse" it. Gen II Prius doesn't come with an EV button (like Gen III, v or c). We can hack and add a button to enter EV mode. Gen II EV mode allows higher speed 34 MPH (vs. 25 MPH) and probably uses the HV battery more aggressively.
Slight correction.... "gen II Prius doesn't come with an EV button in the US" it's standard over here... I don't have any figures on US v rest of world failure modes though. Does anyone?
IMHO, the primary source of failure is heat. The car will not allow for EV mode if the battery is even mildly warm. Around here, people may deep cycle their battery 2.5 times on a 45 minute commute to work. Worst case is parking the car on a hot day with an already warm and fully charged battery. That's easy to do here, coming to a full stop from highway speeds with a 300-500 foot elevation drop.
I almost never see an EV switch installed in a car that comes in here for service. Heat is the enemy of NiMH batteries. The deep charge/discharge cycles that mountain cars experience raises battery temp. I believe that is a key factor in failures. Another interesting tidbit to be researched if someone had the time is: The Ford Escape Hybrid has a dedicated AC system just to cool the battery. (up to model year 2008, anyway). Those battery packs have extremely low failure rates. Correlation? Interesting, we usually see blown up gas engines on these. Eric Adopt A Part/MileHybrid Automotive
Whereas, the fan on a Prius stops as soon as the car is turned off, on top of being susceptible to poor performance due to dog hair, dirt, and lint. And it should be a known problem to engineers at Toyota, since inadequate cooling was noticed early on in RAV4 EV fleet vehicles. Interesting to hear that the ICE fails more readily on the Escape. That's not so easy to fix.
(whistling in the Dark, here ) My '05 just crested 265k miles: original batteries, no problems as yet. Only a couple of times have I even heard the battery cooling fan come on, although we sometimes go three weeks straight with highs over 100 f. Yes, I do have the EV mod hack installed, though I tend to use it for about a mile on each end of my daily commute. Apparently I'm easy on the car: original brakes still look new and the latest tires have 100k miles and still going strong. So, the dilemma is obvious. Buy a new one before the apparent odds catch up with me, or see how far I can push my luck??
I really want to clean the battery fan on mine, but I don't want to screw anything up. I've heard it costs about $120-200 to get it done at a dealer, but that's about as much as I make in a week if I'm lucky. Maybe I could just stick a Lint Lizard into the vents?
you probab Geez well you ain't going to get too much for the trade at those miles! But you probably saved $20000 in gasoline so who cares? If you poke around here, you will see the EV mode hack is not considered to be a good thing re: maximizing MPG. It's best for short move of the car in the driveway, that kind of thing. But heck why risk telling you how to maximize batt life, as it is you that has a successful formula.
any forced EV mode driving unless driveway or other short distances like 100 yards or less will reduce your milage. iPad ? - now Free
Depends on your drive pattern. Bakersfield to Fresno is a lot easier on the hybrid system (I will go so far as to say ideal) as compared to Bakersfield to Tehachapi. I would say keep it anyway with a Gen III conversion contingency. Batteries are a lot easier to come by in CA due to it being a CARB state.
...if he uses EV mode to go "the last mile", he is parking the car with low SOC and the HV battery is apparently long life despite the 100F heat. So maybe he has hit on something. That's why I say, keep on with the same habit, or at least, I do not recommend any changes.
You may have a point there tracy as it seems that when the battery is full and hot, it gets even hotter when parked. Being on a low SOC might make a difference. Interesting point for sure. I should have studied physics better...
I used to get the battery packs for about $600 at the yards. Very rare now and what ever pops up gets bought and resold for about $1200. I stop servicing the batteries as I could not get them at a reasonable price.