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Aftermarket Remote Start w/OEM fob - Video inside.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by The Critic, May 2, 2013.

  1. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    That's the right harness. I'll take a picture of mine tonight.


    iPhone ?
     
  2. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    Thanks! I have an idatalink sitting in a box downstairs. Maybe I'll get to use it :)
     
  3. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Do you have the cable for flashing the software? If so, can I borrow it? :D
     
  4. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Sorry for the mess in here. Yes, shame on me, I still have not gone back to solder those connections.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370498994.369819.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370499004.844740.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370499016.498559.jpg

    IIRC the wires are either 20 gauge or 22 gauge. Yes, they are small. I think soldering them will be a bit difficult in this area.

    iPhone ?
     
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  5. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    Hmm... Good question. I'll have to look and see. Its actually an FLCAN but its the same unit as idatalink just a different branding.
     
  6. Gregg Symington

    Gregg Symington Junior Member

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    I'll be installing a DB-ALL, TLTH2 (OBD T-Harness) and DSM200 (SmartStart) this weekend. Thanks for bringing this method to my attention! For full disclosure, I've installed many remote starts and already have an xkloader2 from a previous install, but this will be the easiest by far! I'll take some pictures as well.

    F.Y.I Amazon.com has some great deals on DB-ALL and THTH2. I lucked out and got an open-box unistalled DSM200 for $80, too.
     
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  7. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    Definitely post how the install went I plan on installing the smart start and would like to DIY it!
     
  8. Gregg Symington

    Gregg Symington Junior Member

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    I couldn't wait until the weekend so I installed it tonight!

    I can confirm that pin 30 on the same connector works for parking lights on my 2012 Prius 3.

    All went off without a hitch. The OBD T-harness made it clean and quick. Tapped the 3 wires and plugged it in. It all worked in less that 30 minutes, including SmartStart.
     
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  9. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Glad to hear. Now you guys have me tempted to rip out the extended-range remote kit and install smartstart.
     
  10. FranklinS

    FranklinS Ach crivens ye scunners!

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    Any tips on stripping the wires in place? I assume removing the ECU harness is a hassle and would not give significantly more working area. I am thinking on using a boxcutter with a new blade and stripping a 1/8" section on each of the three ECU wires VERY gingerly and then mounting the T-Taps. That small gauge wiring is tricky.
     
  11. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    There is no need to strip wires prior to using T-Taps. Slip the wire into the T-Tap and press down firmly until it clicks - the T-Tap will strip the wire for you. Also, you may want to cut back more of the insulation and move further down the harness, since the location of my T-Taps seems to be putting some stress on the connector.
     
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  12. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    How did you get the Smart Start registered and activated? A link from another online forum?
     
  13. Gregg Symington

    Gregg Symington Junior Member

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    Legit... I just went to managesmartstart.com and created an account. Just make sure to create your "Installer" account with an email address that your not going to use with your smartstart. You can't use your installer email to use smartstart. I used an email address I usually use for questionable sites.
     
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  14. limdoug

    limdoug Junior Member

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    Is it truly as simple as...
    - flash DB-ALL with appropriate firmware for your car to remote start and run for 60 mins
    - plug one side of the THTH2 into the DB-ALL
    - plug the other side of the THTH2 into the car start button harness
    - plug the DSM200 into the DB-ALL
    - hook up the three aforementioned wires
    - register an account on the smartstart site

    Is that it?

    Or am I missing something?
     
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  15. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    For those who want to use SmarStart... here is the difference between DSM200 and DSM250. SmartStart also requires the owner to subscribe to a monthly service to use it's features of SmartStart or SmartStart w/GPS.

    DSM200 = SmartStart
    Remote start from smartphone to include lock/unlock

    DSM250 = SmartStart with GPS features
    VEHICLE LOCATOR: Press a button on your smartphone and receive vehicle's current location, plus speed if it's moving
    SOCIAL CHECK-IN: Text or e-mail your car's location just by pressing a button, or check-in to update your social network
    SPEED ALERT: Receive notification if a family vehicle exceeds your specified setting
    LOCKDOWN ALERT: Receive notification if your vehicle is moved without your OK
    LOW BATTERY ALERT: Receive notification if your car battery drops below a safe threshold
    All five of the above features are included in the SmartStart GPS Secure Service Plan. Three additional value-added features of SmartStart GPS can be accessed with the Premium Secure Service Plan:
    SMARTFENCE: Creates a secure zone around your vehicle so you'll be alerted if your vehicle leaves the zone
    HOTSPOT: Adds a virtual Do Not Enter zone around a location so you'll be alerted if your vehicle goes there
    CURFEW: Schedule time frames and curfews for notifications
     
  16. Gregg Symington

    Gregg Symington Junior Member

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    One correction.

    TLTH2 is a "T" harness. It taps into the OBD2 without cutting and has a little harness goes to the DB-ALL.


    TLTH2


    Take a look at the PDF in Post #10
     
  17. rrg

    rrg Active Member

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    Great job.
    I recommend this device as long as you can get it programmed correctly.

    I find it to be finicky, when and if all the wires are not hooked up correctly when you turn it on.
    It may need a reflash. Just read the instructions very very carefully.

    my2cents
     
  18. FranklinS

    FranklinS Ach crivens ye scunners!

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    First of all a Huge Thanks to “The Critic” for all his research and kindly posting his DIY! Thank You!
    If you don’t think you can do this? You can!

    Here is what I got:
    DB-ALL programmed for free. Just told him I wanted to use factory remote and the default 15 minute run time along with make, model and year. $43.97 shipped.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Directed-Xpresskit-DB-ALL-Databus-Immobilizer-Interface-Module-DEI-DBALL-DB-ALL-/290891493754?pt=US_Car_Keys_Transponders&hash=item43ba7bf17a

    TLTH2 Harness. $29.99 shipped.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/330804224613?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

    18-22 AWG T-Tap, Tap-In. Package of 4 $1.99 (silly price). Bought two packages to practice (sillier price).
    18-22-AWG male connection for above bought two packages (silliest price). $1.99. All pieces purchased at local auto parts.

    An old fashioned wire stripper/crimper. Couldn't find my higher end strippers so I used my teeth (they are thin wires). My off brand T-Taps male connections needed the leading edges filed down to insert.

    I practiced using the extra T-Taps and connections with the excess wire in the kit supplied. I was a certified solderer but I was not going to try in these cramped confines even after pulling out the ECU harness. Tested clamping and continuity of all connections before installation.

    The most difficult part was finding the #16 green wire. There are a number of green wires. You just need to be observant. The #4 lavender and #30 yellow wires were much easier. I took The Critic’s advice and teased out the wrapping after I disconnected the ECU harness (just a clip on the left. The wrapping is sealed at the top and can be pulled apart. Before doing any of this I disconnected the negative battery terminal.

    To get to the ECU you will need to remove the flashing next to door sill, the kick plate, the lower left dash panel, and maybe the plastic plate over the OBD connection (can’t remember).

    Anyway, Spiderman and a few others put together a great DIY fog light install pdf that shows how to do this (very simple). Just go to pages 8-12 as the other pages do not apply. See attachment at end of post.

    Thanks again to The Critic. You saved me over $400 and it was fun! Works great! Depleting my battery by not being able to quit playing with it!
    This winter I will be in my slippers and sipping my breve, quietly chortling while the commoners are donning their mukluks .Oh wait, summer is here. "Sire, your pre air conditioned car awaits your magnificence".
     

    Attached Files:

  19. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Franklin,
    I am really glad to hear that the installation was successful. Good job with the planning and research on your end, too!

    To others: I just received an idatalink ads-al ca that I will be using for a different car. Although the idatalink does not have a t-harness available, it does have an advantage in size. It is a much smaller unit, which will make it easier to mount. Also, the reliability is supposed to be much better - though my DB-ALL has been working fine so far. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370918762.066672.jpg


    iPhone ?
     
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  20. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    I checked the box for my FLCAN and I don't have the programming unit for it.