Toyota Prius 2nd Gen. - converted to LPG hybrid

One other thing there are 4 rubber hoses going to the throttle body and 2 servos, one of the large ones comes from the valve cover I suppose the CPV valve is at the other end thou I can't see it looks like it is going right into the valve cover, no valve
The other large one is below the butterfly, it has to be the vacuum for the brake booster, I couldn't see where it goes but I thought the Prius had some sort of electric brakes, anyway the smaller ones I am afraid are coolant, I guess that's what the second servo is for, can anybody confirm? I'm probably due for a flush anyway, just don't want to make a mess, it would help if I came across some exploded wives off the service manuals, if any of you has a link for me please don't be shy.
Also the TB has a vacuum port just above the manifold mount, looks like it goes to a factory sensor Tees of and keeps going somewhere , I suppose I could Tee into it for a MAP signal instead of drilling an extra port, also there's what appears to be an IAT + something multi sensor on the air box, does not look like a MAF, guess I got to do a bit more reading get familiar with the car first, if any of you can shed some light please do

 

Ok so you recon the click is either wiring issue or settings in the software issue? Can you advise which wire is the correct to use?
Andrei, can you confirm whether or not you hear the click's in the back of the car as well as the front of the car at each Start/Stop or:
Just one click at power On the car and one click on the back when power Off the car? I assume the clicks on the front are correct.

Also Andrei, can you recall whether you had to setup software to manage the above mentioned click issue ?

Regarding indicator, on Monday I have first service so they are aware that this need calibration.

Regarding injectors, the shorter the rubber gas pipes the better for the timing in which gas is injected to cylinders, the length of rubber pipes at mines is about 10cm or less while others I have seen are close to 30cm. Is there anything I can do to prevent from clogging the nozzles or it is just too late? I will ask on Monday about the inner diameter size or whether they just used what was in the box.

I heard about reducer mounting height, however I had to rely at someone's else opinion at that time (do you suggest I should ask to move this component below the top level of the radiator to eliminate possibility of the air gaps? )

The solenoid valve with filter, I will ask about that on Monday.

 

I agree with the hoses from injector to spuds, the shorter the better also it helps if they are all same lenght, in that aspect I think its pretty cool the way they did it, the injectors and the spuds pointing up not so much, I plan on doing something simmilar but from the top, I think it's not worth changing it at this point, I would want to know how many filters you have and where are they, that solenoid valve in the video has a built in liquid filter, there is also a vapor state filter, it's sugested to change them every 15 000 clicks I believe, in your case you best stick with it, the cartriges are cheap.

as for the clicking valve, again I am not familiar with stag, but check lpgforum.co uk, run a search, keywords prius stag, there is a post there one is complaining that his stag setup does not work as well as his previous italian setup. On my setup, the software is programed to work with hybrids, not sure about the stag, from what I read on that post, the user was complaining that the system would reset with every engine stop/start, I believe the key is to wire the power supply of the lpg controler into the hybrid computer power supply not the Ice power supply, something like that, so this way the lpg computer does not loose power every engige cut off, that part I am still trying to figure out myself, there are 2 wires from the controller for power supply, I think normaly they would wire it into the ignition relay, on a normal car that is fine, not on the prius., I mentioned this before you got the system installed, not sure if you understood then.

Go back to the first page, Andrei posted some manuals, I believe there are wire diagrams on there, I read them all a while back, myself was going to order a stag setup thought you can order them directly from AC, while waiting on them to call back came across the italian setups.

The clicks upfront like a rattle winding up with engine speed, those are your injectors, petrol ones do it too, I hear that lpg ones can be louder, I have yet to hear mine tick.

As for the reducer I plan on finding a different spot for, all 4 priuses have it up there and aparently it works, I read this in several places including the label that it came with ( ask your installer for one, I'm sure he has a few in stock ) :

Away from rad fan blades as it will cause pulses in regulation, in that aspect its fine back there.

below the rad fluid level, I asume it's for circulation purposes and I read the prius can be bitch to bleed.

also on mine and Andrei has the same type and looking at his pics is installed right, it says to make sure they the outlet is pointed up, counterintuitive I believe it's the same ideea as the injectors, they would rather those waxes remain in the reducer ( there may be pockets to colect it I guess ) and not make it to the injectors considering the way yours are installed, pretty important I would say and if you think lpg is clean watch this vaporator rebuild, all that gunk would have been in the injectors if the outlet was mounted downward, that could easily plug a dozen sets.

that kit is cheap, certainly a lot cheaper than a half dozen injector rails,

I believe it said a minimum of 10 cm from any hot, exhaust pipes, but if a compromise must be made a steel heatshield 1mm minimum is required, I do believe the exhaust is back there ( I did not see it upfront and the engine looks like a dohc anyhow), I wont be able to confirm proximity till I tear into mine, I am afraid that any lower would be too close to the exhaust, I've seen installs with it in the fender, it's an Ideea i am considering
from what I gathered if lpg has any bad rep is from bad installs, components fail sometimes, but mostly because they are not installed corectly, it gets deeper, not to scare you but I'm just geeky like that, say injectors plug up somewhat, lpg burns hotter as it is, bit of a lean burn on top of that, there goes your valves, these systems can monitor emissions but do not require to be hooked up to calculate injection times, and more than often installers do not hook up the obd or the lambda sensors, more work and it will run without.
the only reason Andrei and his friend made it so far without troubles and very little maintenance is because they done their homework, I grew up back it's a different mindset people pay more attention to such as items can be hard to find and expensive to replace.

George

 

Ok, I checked few bits, so I can confirm that the reducer is slightly above radiator level, I still have the turbulence in the reservoir so I assume this has been bleed correctly and no air gaps there. However I will ask them to lower the mounting of the reducer by 10 ~ 15 cm down.

The direction of the outlet from the reducer is pointing upwards as you suggested, then just after that outlet they placed a large filter, then the lpg pipe goes down towards the injectors rails.

While it looks like there is the filter build inside the reducer (I need to confirm if this is the case with mine) then I may have at least two filters. I will ask them if they can advise if extra one filter can be mounted before the injectors rails.
I cannot tell if my system resets at each engine cut off, nor I can tell if the system resets at each power off the car.

The rattle type of noise you talking about is known to valtek injectors rails, my colleague who has them installed in his Toyota has this mentioned rattle clicks coming from the under the bonnet. I do not have this type of noise from the hana injectors. However the click's I am talking about are coming from electric valve which shuts on or off at each start or stop. This makes sense if it comes from under the bonnet. I still try to figure out if it is for the safety reasons if the clicks are coming from the back where the tank is located, as another valve would prevent any leaks while in bad accident.

 

I'm pretty sure the reducer you have does not have a liquid line filter built in or a solenoid valve for that matter, it looks just like the one in the Stag tutorial I posted, which is why they were using the external solenoid valve with built in filter.
Hanna injectors are probably quieter, plus where they are mounted the engine noise would probably cover any rattle, you need to have a liquid filter especially with those upside down injectors, heck I would hook two up just to be safe and change them often, cheap insurance, on the drypa website they had some cheap inline ones, you could mount them right at the tank just off the multivalve for ease of access,
I am pretty sure your system resets with every engine start, that's what I was reading on that uk forum but keep it in mind what do I know? never worked with stag or converted a prius yet, all I know is from reading manuals and other people findings, so take it as some points to consider, that's all.
Mounting the reducer lower would be best but make sure it is not too close to the exhaust manifold, if you must , make a heat shield. at the same time if bled correctly and you keep up on the coolant level it's probably fine as it is, all the other Priuses I seen including the one on the polish forum you posted had it in the exact same spot, I did not find any official info as to why is it supposed to be mounted below the rad level, I am only assuming it is for circulation purposes, either way if that's what all the manufacturers recommend I will do my best with mine to follow their instructions
the filter just off the reducer is a gaseous state, that is fine you don't need another just before the injectors, that one is it, check for a liquid state filter, here's a thought you can even mount an inline one between the filler and tank, I have not seen this done but if you chose a good size one I don't see a reason not to, heck you use and adaptor with that fill port don't you? mount a filter right on it, so it cleans your fuel a bit even before it hits the tank.
your installation looks very clean, those people did try and do ok, just some of it I don't agree with that's all, at the end of the day it may be their first prius, and they have not considered the different nature of the car, if you bring up these concerns it may shed some light for them too, chances are they know better what to change to make it better

 

I will ask about the filters. Will also ask about the system switching on/off and if it is the case.

The stag300 premium had some software update in 2012 or so (I could be wrong on the exact date). Also tech on stag forum advised me that 300 premium would work on prius.

As for the guys who installed stag on my car, they have converted one taxi in Dublin and the very same chap has converted another prius back in Poland, so it is at least two Prius cars they converted prior to converting mine.

The clicking as I said earlier, I can live with it. I will chat with them about it tomorrow.

This is where lads are talking about stag 300 premium and prius, in two posts two people mention new software in 2012 being capable of supporting start/stop on hybrids while running on LPG only.

stag-300 premium w Toyota Prius 1,5 VVT-I model 2000 pomocy - AUTOGAZ, STAG 200 300 KME SILVER GOLD SEC VALTEK MAGIC JET LPGTECH PROBLEMY BLAD SILNIKA

Ignore the title of the thread as there are various topics.

I like the idea with additional filters between the entry port and the tank or at the tank.

 

any system would work with a prius, even the cheapest Chinese or Turkish question is how well, and than it has to be set up right too, I'm sorry but I am that much of a geek, if you have two other examples nearby would not be a bad Idea to check them out, could be the same as yours, or slightly different especially the one done in Poland, also if they are set up the same way you can get some feedback, maybe some those concerns of mine are just theoretical but they work well in practice.
I can tell by the look of the install they have put some thought into it, you still haven't found the controller did you, let me know where it is, some things I may do different but if they had a good Idea I will use it, like wiring the #2 and #3 injectors backwards, I thought that was pretty cool and the best way to achieve equal hose length.
I seen one of those Icom $6000 jobs today, pulled over a cabbie, I wrote about it before, if you look at their site: state of the art LPI, fudging vapor system, unnecessarily long and different size hoses, no solenoid with filter that I could see, US style evaporator and us copper lines, Khein injectors and man they were quiet, reducer below rad cap but just off the side of the fan, I asked the cabbie, it works good he sais, and for most people it will regardless, I'm just not most people and the differences may be minor, I'll just sleep better at night knowing I did the best I could and that is just me.

George

 

I know, I was quoted 3,000€ in Germany to convert to lpg. I doubt it would be any better.

I didn't look for the controller, I will ask.

The list of questions is getting better, they may wish they never met me before... haha

 

The center bolt can be bend along with the box to allow for the larger tank.

 

Stag 300 premium has option to start directly on lpg once ICE above 30degree Celsius..
I have seen post from uk forum, I think he had such trouble before the software updates.

 

that's not what I ment, height wise there is only 13 cm they don't make a tank that thin, you'd have to cut the plastic box regardless.
as for the controller, stag 300 premium is pretty capable from what I read, that's why I never advised against it thou I am not as familiar with it as I am with the one I bought, actually I'm told it is a true sequential system ( not entirely sure about mine thou it should be ) unlike some that sead cyl #1 and multipy it based on rpm, I don't remember what the guy in uk ended up doing about it but I did not understand it very well in the first place ( not beeing familiar with the controller ) that's why I pointed you to it so you can read it for yourself, you got to make sure all those options were set up properly or you are not using it's full potential, I read some installers do not hook up the obd wires, they don't need to for the car to run but so much for the self adaptivity function, might as well use a cheaper stag 200 if you are not going to wire and set up the premium to it's full potential, kindof like driving a lambo in rush hour traffic.
I have decided to do away with the stock intake mostly to make some room, now that I have the parts in hand and a good feel for their size I realise I can't do the best I can with all that bulky plastic crap in the way, I read the thread about CAI, pretty cool info, I would not mess with it otherwise but all the options I have examined have to compromise something so I figured I'd give it a gobefore I tackle the lpg install.
I cut some pieces today I shall pe posting a few pics tonite in that thread

 

The plastic box has been completely removed from my setup, today I have requested to research the price on the largest tank 600mm by 270 or by 300 (we will be checking which multi-valve will be compatibile with the larger ones 600x300, if we find suitable one we will order the large tank then).

Answers to 2007blueprius previous questions:

Regarding the rear click's at the tank: the frequency of the occurrence and the reasoning's behind:
Since the tank is pressurized, the multi-valve plays the role of cutting certain pressure from the system, so the point there is that the system is not unnecessarily over-pressurized, thus the multi-valve shuts ON/OFF frequently, therefore cutting the pressure between the tank and the reducer.
Installer said that if he removes this step, then he suspect that increased pressure on the reducer which may cause premature damage to the reducer. AC (the producer of the system) has advised the installer that this is the correct procedure for the setup.

Regarding the amount of filters and type of the filters: I was advised that I have at present two filters (one of the liquid phase and one of the vapour stage), the liquid phase filter is located at the electric-valve and the vapour stage is located between the reducer and the injector rails. (I have ordered the liquid phase KME filter to place it between the LPG entry port and the tank). Something like that MEGAPOL - samochodowe instalacje gazowe - LPG - auto gas - autogaz (however installer mentioned KME)

Regarding the nozzles size: the nozzles used at my prius were matched to HANA injectors, since HANA has 6mm outer nozzle diameter (at the injector itself), the nozzles to my manifold were also matched to this size, so 6mm (outer) and about 3,5mm inner diameter(since the measurement tool we used may not be 100% accurate, the 3,5mm remains a question, the installer mentioned two types of the nozzles for this setup, however I did see he had plenty of other components, so there maybe more sizes and variations, I suspect that they match these to the size of the injectors). (picture attached, the one on the right is 6mm outer and this is the one that matched hana injectors diameter)

Regarding the upside mounting of the nozzles and possibility of the clogging with paraffin:since in Ireland we use quite clean LPG from Norway as compared to the LPG in Europe which is sourced mainly from Russia, the cleanliness of the gas remain the reason that the installer has decided to place the nozzles in such place, the installer has advised that he had serviced another reducer with 15,000 km's running on gas in Ireland and he didn't notice the build-up of the paraffin.

Regarding IG1 injectors: the installer mentioned that they are middle class injectors which require drilling through them. (if you decide to measure the size of your's IG1 nozzles (at the injector), I may ask them to match the nozzles to your injectors and you could order from them four nozzles, these can be posted to you in the standard envelope as they are pretty small, this will save you drilling the nozzles).

OBD connetion and auto-adaptation: the installer has presented me with the software used to service my Prius and explained that my car is permanently wired to OBD and the auto-adaptation has been connected.

Regarding the height of the reducer: the installer advised that lowering the reducer will expose it to heat from the manifold out-take and that the water pump has no trouble circulating the coolant at this level.

Placing the controller: the controller has been located under the front plastics where the wipers mechanism is located, right hand corner, deeply so no rain water can access this place, this place is warm and dry. I cannot see it, I just can see one metal bracket mounting it.

The positive + wire has been taken from car OBD and most likely not from the ignition.

Installer said that my system does not reset at each time the engine start/stop.

 

sounds pretty good for my ears, I knew hannas are better quality no secret there, I am surprised at the inner nozzle size, that is more like a 400hp turbo size, maybe hanna's are more precise and don't require calibrated nozzles, I am also told valtek type 34 like Andreis are not that sensitive and either, it's good to be reassured that there has been some thought behind the compromises they made, like I said the install looks pretty clean and ingenious otherwise, I still think the solenoid valve with filter should do the clicking and not the tank valve.
Here is my take on this in plain terms, I have 4 propane forklifts that work with the same pressures as your setup, the reducers are rather similar and there is no tank solenoid, just a manual service valve on an interchangeable tank, we open it when installing a new tank and close it a few days later when the tank is empty, the reducers hold back the 180 psi just fine for hours on end, yours is more than capable of doing the same for a few minutes while sitting at a traffic light, but there may not be a good way to go about setting it up differently on a stag thou I doubt it.
quote:
All the ones I have done have run great and the owners have been very pleased. On one of the later cars I had a problem with the sound of the tank valve cutting in each time the engine cut in. Changing the ignition live point resolved that.

It is very important that the system is mapped correctly. Lean running will eventualy result in burnt valves. Using EOBD corrections to compensate for incorrect mapping is not the way to set a car up. Most systems have a means of connecting to most EOBD cars but far to many installer are dependant on it working. The real answer is to manualy map the car spot on in the first instance.

There are probably only about 4 or 5 installers in the UK that have done them. Is your installer used to doing odd ball cars?
LPG Discussion Forum • View topic - Converting a 2004 Prius to lpg



I like this lad, he knows his stuff and was kind enough to school me on the matter a bit, read up, if money was no object I would ship my car to him with me in it to do the conversion.

just a thought

 

This quote from uk forum came to my attention earlier, I do not have experience with UK's installers and the posts dates may collide with software updates and with other recommendations and feedbacks.

You mentioned forklifts accepting very high pressure, this is not the case with cars (unless we will use same threaded hoses as are used on forklifts, this will significantly increase to costs of the conversions) , given the fact that there are grossly different accessories used for the lpg set-ups (hoses, fittings, etc) used on the forklifts and on the LPG for the cars.

as here: LPG Hose - Pallet trucks, forklifts - Directparts.eu / Technozbyt or Forklift Safety and Accessories


The hoses on my conversion were cut by knife and fastened with hose clamps (the 1-2 bar pressure shouldn't be the problem), perhaps these clamps don't like too much pressure as compared to the threaded fittings.

May I ask you what type of tank are you going to use for your conversion?

Yesterday I filled full, done 92km and today filled again, 6 l lpg (this shows lpg consumption at ~6,6l/100km)


I filled 40 litres petrol on the 17.05.2013 to the Prius tank, I drove about 1,000km's and the petrol tank indicators shows all green boxes flashing . I suspect that the last green indicator of my petrol will switch off soon. I had some driving on petrol only, as I had to approach the LPG filling stations and had one trip on petrol alone, plus starts and initial warm up's are on petrol too.

LPG Costs:
At present time after 3 lpg fill ups and driving in Dublin city lpg consumption stands at around 6,6L/100Km @0.85 euro cents a litre, given a total cost of about 5.61EUR/100km

First 1,000km service passed (no leaks to lpg installation and no problems with the installation reported)
Adjustments to the lpg indicator inside the vehicle on the dash board were made at the same time.

 

2007blueprius how you doing with your project? Do you have any questions for my installers?
Remember safety first!

 

son of a .............my computer died after a half hour reply.
sorry I did not notice your post on tuesday, I've been arround thou got sidetracked for a minute, now that I have the parts in hand I realise some compromises have to be made and I comented on most before, here's another way to install the reducer Toyota Prius Hybrid LPG conversion car Model , I think it's better, below rad cap, much cooler area thou they did hack up the intake which would take 5 min to do and for a comercial install is ok I guess, but this http://www.energy-reform.com/ is the kind of job I aim for and that is a team of paid engineers I am going up against, I have a dayjob, and I am working in my driveway still aim higher.
look under gen II mods ( this thread should be there too) cold air intake, I am about to update it shortly, getting there, the task at hand is to make some room under that hood without screwing up the performance and economy, nor just hacking and tossing away some parts as if they are extra.
as for the tank, I'll likely end up with a standard 33 lbs interchangeble US type, long story it's too expensive to have one shipped and there is only 1 place I could fill it and it almoast costs as much as gasoline at the end of the day ( its a states thing we get cheap gas, go back a few pages I wrote about it) I stock about 20 of those standard tanks for work and I get bulk prices, bearly cheap enough to recover the cost of the parts in aprox 44 months at current prices.
The clicking is not right, it's not an older version thing as Andrei's is not doing it, its wired wrong, I tried to explain this before and honestly I haven't made it that far myself so I could not give you speciffics, When I get to that part I will make sure to take detailed pics and specific instructions
as for my setup, I'll have to figure out a way to go from US standard to Italian metric, as well as simulate the multivalve as there are a few safety devices I have to incorporate, it will cost me a penny and getting a tank would be much easyer, I have a polish contractor I work with he travels there twice a year, comes back empty handed, he'll hook me up with some parts, problem is the price on filling such a tank is not feasable further more in some places I would acctualy pay more per mile.
my kit came with 6mm copper highpressure line, impossible to get on this continent, most us old stile is flex line from tank to reducer, I metioned I pulled over a cabbie with the supposedly Icom LPI ( not, I wrote about it before If I cared that much I'd sue them for false advertising, the public is so ignorant arround here it would not change anything, but if any lawyers are watching by all means, pm me ), what Icom did, its basicaly a vapor system kheins injectors, possibly prins ( the only epa aproved to my knowlwdge ) system, permanent tank, US standard copper, I want to say US style reducer (inferior to the european design thou 1 bar is one bar either way you acheve it), or at least a fitting adaptor, past the reducer standard european vapour injection, and done like $hit about 6 grand worth. and cabies are charged $2.99/gal propane, gasoline just recently is pushing $3.80, realisticaly just now they cost the same, cabies been getting screwed to this point actualy paing more per mile after a 6k cral fake state of the art LPI setup. Disgusting how ignorant the public is and how some people woud take advantage sell icecubes to an eskimo and make a buck off this, no wonder Icom would not talk to me or sell me a "US made KIT" I know too much, if I go missing you all know what happened
Anywho check out the other thread, I'll be back on here as soon as I got dialed in or give up and throw it together in a hurry ( righht )

 

looked over the link you posted that looks awfull similar to the tanks I use and those are the toyota forklifts like we have, that may be an international standard, most have a gauge, I would like to figure out a brachet for my kit suplied gauge to quickly swap onto those tanks, thou I could live without it, there is a pressure relief valve built into the tank thou since it's a hachback it would have to be plumbed outside, some of my forklifts also have a hydrostatic relief valve on the hard line ,pretty much the same function as the one on the tank, as for that red handle valve no coment, there are checkvalves allready built into the quick conectors, your average house wife might buy it for her gas grill, however I was planning of installing a electric shut off solenoid to simulate the one on the multivalve, I can wire it without and get away with it, forklifts don't have it, but that is different.
As for the forklift plumming I did not have a good look at, but I want to say its flared fittings, Icom used the same thing thou a good Idea I hate to consider it out of principle, likely US standard, could be metric, the kit supplied lines are compression fittings, I'm pretty good with silver solder I've plumbed AC's before that held absolute vacum over night, and ran 350psi at I believe 250 F if memory serves ( twice as much as propane, no where near as cool) regular working pressure, max safe about 600 psi. I could weld the different standard lines together without too much concerns, I also seen some elbows on drypa, language barier but I belive it had standard threads at one end m10 at the other which is what the reducer takes. did you mention you speak polish? Agape.

 

MEGAPOL - samochodowe instalacje gazowe - LPG - auto gas - autogazMEGAPOL - samochodowe instalacje gazowe - LPG - auto gas - autogazMEGAPOL - samochodowe instalacje azowe - LPG - auto gas - autogaz

Let me know if it s something you are after.

If I need to use foreign websites I have installed add on to my chrome browser, this translates immediately to english. If you type in google "chrome translate add on" it will guide you on the installation of this add on software.

Can you post the link to the elbow you question, I will try to help with translation. Yes I can speak the language. Remember I'm not an installer nor I have a required knowledge in this topic, but I have no trouble to ask the installers if you get stuck on something.

http://MEGAPOL - samochodowe instalacje gazowe - LPG - auto gas - autogaz

My installers used this PCV thermoplastic hose to connect the toroidal tank with the gas entry port.

 

MEGAPOL - samochodowe instalacje gazowe - LPG - auto gas - autogaz
here are some fittings I don't quite understand, the Drypa website translates to a degree, but that is not what got me confused, for example: AKCESORIA - Nakrętki - Nakrętka 1/2UNF - fi6mm/17mm/-731
The "1/2 unf" that sounds like an American standard measurement, around here common fitting descriptions are say 1/2 (inch) MIP/FIP, I don't even know exactly what they stand for, it's different size threads, and a 1/2MIP is very different than a half FIP, they measure inches in different ways around here makes it very confusing, you need a degree to be a plummer, took me a while to get used to it and now I am no good in either standard system nor metric, to me those fittings appear to have a Standard thread yet they are for a metric pipe and they appear to be for a flared type end rather than a compression fitting,
My tomassetto Alaska has a inlet that is M10x1 I believe thread and it is for a 6 mm copper pipe compression. I have to figure out how to go about it at the other end and go from a 6mm pipe to a American standard type fitting.
Accessories-Elbows- Elbow (G1/4-G1/4/-/90) infusion this is an elbow I was talking about I don't know that G1/4 stands for, could it be 1/4 inch?
here is one elbow that I think is right down my alley : (ID: 608) Accessories-Elbows- Elbow (M10x1-Z/G1/4-W/90) wielozaworu
I believe the M10x1 is the male end and it will fit perfectly into my evaporator inlet instead of the provided 6mm pipe compression fitting provided, and the Z/G1/4 I want to believe it's a female end similar to the metric one on the reducer but for a 1/4 inch standard pipe, aprox 6.2mm, which I can easily source here all sorts of components for and something like this would do the transition from a 6mm pipe fitting to a 1/4 inch pipe fitting, they are cheap enough and my friend can bring me come over or I can order them but I do not know what exactly am I looking at,
have you seen my other posts? I have a little ways to go before I get to that, right now I am working on freeing up some room under the hood so I can install the LPG components in a manner that I am comfortable with not space permitting, granted I am trying to accomplish a little more than just a conversion and no installer can go that far to modify a customers car, but that's why I prefer to take a stab at it myself.
(ID: 432) Accessories-Elbows- Elbow (M10x1-Z/G1/4-/90) nyplowe this one appears to be the same thing but a male fitting instead, and the nuts I posted first likely thread in onto the 1/4 inch side, and a 1/4 inch copper pipe with compression fitting can go there?

(ID: 1616) Accessories-Elbows- Elbow (M10x1-Z/G1/4-/90) wielozaworu kpl., I think this is exactly what I need looks like the m 10 male is a perfect fit on the reducer, and the 1/4 inch end is for a Standard pipe, which I should not have to much trouble to go from that to one of those flexhoses you posted to a tank, and all the safety devices I can buy here are all American Standard, should not have a problem incorporating, I do have to go tho a supply warehouse and see what they have to work with, best yet, hold off on this till I find out what can I get here for the back end.
a closer look at the description appears this elbow is a transit from 6mm pipe to 8 mm pipe not exactly what I was looking for, I may have to make my own, drill and tap

www.drypa.pl/produkt3386_WOZKI_WIDLOWE_-_Czesci_Impco_-__-_RK-Cobra_1_4-18NPT_10x1mm_Redukcja_reduktora_.html - Translator

I think this is more like what I need just the other way around, this is for European pipe to go to US style reducer

 

Unified Thread Standard - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Unified National Fine Thread Chart
1/2" inch etc... the drypa website uses inches as well as millimeters. Where in millimeters they state it mm.

Im using mobile device to connect to www. Very hard to copy and paste each product you mention. Links would be much easier to follow.

Your last post proves that this will be a difficult tas. I really started to feel incompetent in this subject.