Toyota Prius 2nd Gen. - converted to LPG hybrid

I don't know how I did this before but I was able to clearly read your invoices its all fuzzy now, I tryed to look at them again see if I can figure out the nozzle size, does your cutoff valve click onn and off all the time?
here is what I ended up with, should be here tomorow ups from Italy, plus a 50euro interface cable, shipping was quite a bit, I remember in your invoice it was about 50 euros, than again I got a steal on this kit, ran me about $750 shipped everything but the tank, and unlike the megapol this is a complete readymade kit, supposedly has all the nuts and bolts so that helped, instead of ordering all components individualy.

 

my package allready left Lousville, KY about an hour ago, allready cleared customs, should be here tomorow morning, that is crazy fast it only left Italy last night.
oh Andrei it is not the lpg maintenance I am stressing but the engine valves, I have the same mentality as you do if it blows I'll replace it or rebuild the head, at the same time I'm trying to cover my bases and make sure I don't purposedly blow it, when I mentioned maintenance, I was refering to valve clearence checks, you guys haven't done that yet have you?

 

those are your injectors, Agape is talking about the shut off valve in the trunk, I don't think it was set up properly, it should not click on and off every time the engine starts, does yours?

 

I didn't check the valve clearance. I might in month time when my trusted mechanic lands here.
Today I have finished my first tank of lpg. 32l of lpg gave me 450km. I do not know if it was 32l lpg or more/less as I did not fill it. This was 1st free tank.
Anyway I have filled another 32.5l lpg today so hopefully in the next few days I will be due for 1st 1k kilometers free service and I will ask for the size of the nozzles. Also tomorrow I will try to give them a call, perhaps they answer me over the phone.

 

here is a thought, this is nothing new thou I am wondering if this installer is absolutely horrible and sucks so bad to the point they had so many reported issues :
LPG Problems
considering there are so many examples of successful conversions even without valve protection, like Andrei, speaking of which if you ever get around to checking valve clearance after these many miles, please post your findings,

 

I received the kit today went over all the components just checking on sime last minute, concerns, to andrei, my understanding is the reducer is on the firewall, just behind the engine, injectors right in front of them so its all withingn a few centimeters of eachother, looking at Agape's pics reducer apers to be mounted in the exact same spot, I got to figure out where to find a 1.75mm drill bit, consulted the injector manufacturer and that is the nozzle size they recomended, not sure if I will have much time this week but I plan on taking the next week off to do this

 

I called the installer, he said that the technician installed either 5mm or 6mm nozzles.

 

I've used my LPG system for 1year and 3months now. Otherwise very satisfied but those darn indicators doesn't work at all. If there's enough gas in tank to use it will always show 4 levels of green. Only in case the car runs on hybrid or on petrol, it's showing me red indicator and zero green ones. The maintenance guys check it and reconnected it few weeks ago, still no effect. Poorly installed or crappy indicator?

 

Could you explain why you think it wasn't set up properly? Click means open valve, if it doesn't click it will be always open/closed.

 

Other installations which I have seen have the same issue. Mine too. I will ask to re-calibrate the indicator once again.

 

ok, thanks, I will ask my installer to help me calibrate this

 

Andrei is correct on the level indicator, the manuals I read, particularly on my system, it has a section for choosing the type of indicator used, some are preprogramed in the controller some need to be programed, I don't think the installers took the time, or they may not understand themselves how it works, but I don't want to criticize somebody I don't know.
to Agape watch :

my understanding is that the service valve in the tank is bothering you, there are several other valves in the system that can open and close with every engine start (watch the video), the regulator pressure should be 1.1 bar just above the atmospheric pressure, the injectors are more than capable to hold it back while sitting at the traffic light, there is also a liquid stage pic valve inside the regulator to hold back the liquid as soon as vapor pressure reaches 1.1 bar, and a solenoid valve with filter just before the regulator ( unless they omitted that one ) in a normal car that tank valve would click once on when started and off when stopped, in your car it does the same thing problem is the prius starts and stops often, there is a way to wire that valve to turn on when the Prius is powered on and off when it is turned off, the tank valve does not have to close every time the engine stops, my controller has such a function preprogramed, stag may also or may not I don't know, either way, I also believe that your controller resets every time the engine starts, as your installer probably wired the controller power into the engine supply not the vehicle supply ( as it would be proper for the prius), I am not as familiar with Stag so don't quote me but obviously Andrei does not have that issue, from where I am sitting I believe his is wired properly and setup differently.
Also don't take offence but I am not very confident in your installer, and maybe I should not say I haven't converted any vehicle yet, but,

I mentioned the injector mounting, thou a cool and very ingenious way its a bad idea, and the spuds should be aimed at the intake valve like the petrol injectors, not pointing up, but that last part I don't mind much.

now you mention the fuel gauge, that is very simple stuff, there is no reason it should be screwy

the nozzle size they told you is the outer diameter, totally irrelevant, the inner diameter is what matters and needs to be properly calibrated, I am wondering if they even know that or they used whatever came in the box, for example my injectors came with 1.5 mm ID ( 5mm outer diameter ) nozzles, I contacted the manufacturer they recommended 1.75 - 1.80 mm for this type injector, so I had to order special drill bits to make them a bit larger, this is a very important measurement, just the way they said it makes me wonder," 5 or 6 who cares, not my car!" sorry but that is the vibe I am getting here.

They have a saying around here : if you want it done right do it yourself.

that's why I chose this route, particular in my area this is new I don't trust any installers people just don't care or have pride in their work anymore, plus they are outrageously overpriced at 6k per conversion and likely they have no clue what they are doing, I would be pissed if I paid somebody 6k around here and that's what I had to show for.

I did not think you would have such issues, since LPG is more common in your area and installers are more experienced, but so far, looks like I know more on the matter, and I haven't even converted a vehicle yet.

sure it works, and your average driver is happy to pay less at the pump but it does not make it right. it gets more complicated, bad lpg mileage, catalytic issues, nozzles too small engine can die when returning to Idle, loss of power at high rpm, but there are so called "Cheats" run gas below/above a certain rpm( this would not be displayed by the swich , I hope that is not what they did, the stag system is more than capable to run the prius on gas properly,
check lpgforum.co.uk there are a few good lads on there really know their stuff, that's where I learned most of this stuff from.

wish you all the best, hope I am overreacting but if you have time look into it, it may take a little over 2 years just beyond your warranty for the injectors to plug up, the tank valve and the controller to fry due to too many restarts.

George

 

Years back, when the OP was new, I'd mentioned LPG/valve issues. Your link is good - but I was surprised to find so little on remedial measures one can take to prevent valve recession. Prior to converting my Ford Van to LPG (straight LPG - gasoline tank removed) all the old timers suggested that I "wait" before my conversion. It was explained to me that after 100's of hours of exhaust gasses passing over the exhaust valves, they will harden. More specifically, it's called work hardening. I found it to be true. The 300 cubic inch straight 6 in my van ran flawlessly for over 150,000 miles on nothing but propane. I didn't do the conversion until the ICE had 60K miles on it. I've begun the same process with our Honda 6kW generator as well ... running gasoline in it, to work harden the exhaust valves, so that if/when we have to/need to run it on NG or LPG, it won't get all eaten up.
crossing my fingers!
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good point, I'm only at 45k miles, they ought to be as hard as they will get, I never seen that mentioned anywhere else, the site I came across was mostly complaining about 2005 and up, it is possible that with the gas prices in Europe some people convert their cars right off the dealer lot. Granted they are somewhat treated from factory but I can see how that makes sense, Andrei and his friend had quite a few miles before the conversion, that may be why they got away with it, lpg forums I read through mentioned with Toyotas among other brands valve saver fluid is a must, or you can expect to rebuild the head in 20k or so

 

I had a chance to have a look today, just took the airbox off,and I must say I almost feel compelled to slap a cone filter in there, looked at the intake and it loops down through some silencers and snorcles back up, I thought most cars these days had a CAI not this one,
Question for the masses, I count Andrei, agape, there is an example of the car in Russia, plus the one posted by agape on the polish forum, all have the reducer below the wiper tray, and it works, thou I read it is not recomended to place it above the rad level, I assume this is so that air bubbles don't get trapped in the vaporator thou in all these examples it is way above, have any of you considered this, or knew of it but had to compromise.

 

Yep - LPG isn't the only fuel that can cause valve issues. Below are a couple links to speed shops that work on heads/valve seats:
GESSLER HEAD PORTING, Quadrajet and Buick Parts - hide Head info - Valve recession Buick Performance Parts / Q-Jet parts

The link below primarily references different metalurgical processes used to in essence, factory work harden valve surfaces, so they willll more readily stand up to exhaust temperatures:
S. B. International ... Tech Topics

... valves that dull a cutter immediately ... now THAT's a hard valve seat!

My 1st experience with needing harder valves came when I tinkered with nitros oxide on a 750cc motorcycle. Before I ever got it working right my "first" set of valves ended up looking like they'd passed through a cutting torch. whooops ... Another valuable life lesson.
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