Eibach Lowering Springs, who's got them?

actually even better.. make up and get her back!

 

About to throw the TRDs on mine maybe this weekend. Any drawbacks of getting the alignment done right away vs. 500 miles or whatever interval it is? I know they say the spring has to settle in, but not sure how much of a difference that'll make.

 

I would wait. Why spend the money if your not certain of the results. The suspension does appear to settle after awhile.

 

Will do. I'm just trying to knock out as much as I can while I have time off from work. Once I get back, I will be super busy. But I'm sure I can squeeze in some time somewhere.

 

If you can't then schedule an alignment during your next oil change visit. It wouldn't add too much extra time.

 

That's 8.5k miles away. Actually I'm 3.5k miles away from my 5k tire rotation. Is that a good amount of time? Have always been told 500-1k, then alignment. I'm gonna have my buddy do the tire rotation at his dealership, and hopefully he can sneak in an alignment, but I doubt it.

 

Did you cut the bump stops? I'm spending too much time on the Internet trying to competely understand the modification instructions that Eibach enclosed and got stuck in a whirlwind of cut, don't cut arguments, none about Prius though. I'm not worried about any other part of doing this job but if these are wrong on the fronts, it's a lot of work to repeat :-(

 

The install for the springs is easy if you've done springs before. I actually just removed the springs today so that I can install them on my newer Prius...

The Eibach spring set you purchased should have come with new bump stops for the fronts only. The rears reuse the original bump stops. In glancing at the OE front bump stops, I suppose you could cut them if you needed to. The OE bump stops are Mushroom shaped and you would probably only need to cut off the wide end of the bump stop. You would keep the narrow end and reinstall that on your strut. But again, the Eibachs should have come with bump stops. My Pro-kit did.

For the fronts: (assuming you've already disassembled the front cowl, and removed the strut, spring)
1) Remove old spring
2) Remove old bump stop
3) Install new bump stop (Eibach includes bump stops for the fronts only)
4) Re-assemble strut using the OE top hats and bottom rubber bushing and ensure that the springs are properly seated within them.

For the rears, it's MUCH easier:
1) Lift rear on the center jack point and rest the car on jack stands
2) Remove rear wheels on both sides
3) Place the jack under the rear spring perch and slightly compress the spring.
4) Unbolt the bottom of the shock (17mm bolt/nut) and remove.
5) Slide shock away from the mounting position (it's okay if it extends fully)
6) Slowly release the tension from the jack which will also let the spring decompress.
6.a) The spring may not come out at this time, due to the otherside still being mounted
7) Repeat the same process for the other side. As soon as you decompress the second side, both perches should drop fully and allow you to remove both springs easily.
8) Reuse rubber bushings and ensure that the springs are properly seated within them.
9) Reassembly is easy, and just the opposite as you removed them.

 

I installed H&R sprigs and used OEM front bump stops, not had and bangs yet where it has hit the bump stops from the front end so......

I had alignment check done after 1000miles or so and fronts were out enough to cause excess wear so glad got done.

Is there a specific way the rear springs need to sit? I just put them in and didn't take any notice how the top of the spring was sitting, I made sure it was sitting correct in the top and bottom rubber cups but didn't take any notice on where the top of the spring started?

 

For the rears, if I recall correctly, the tops do have a notch for the spring. The bottoms do not.

 

I think both rubber spring cups have a notch so the spring sits correctly I it but does the spring top where is starts need to be in a certain oclock place, I didn't take any notice and just put them in.

 

According to the service manual, the rear cups/insulators need to be installed in a specific orientation. I did notice that the top of it did have markings on one half and the other half had none. See RS2.jpg for the orientation info.

 

Thanks!

Difficult to see what orientation the springs are supposed to end at if you don't have ones with markings on. Is the end of the spring at the top supposed to end on the back side of the car or front?

I fitted mine and don't take any notice, but unsure if it even makes any difference as long as you got the spring cups top and bottom in correct place on spring?

 

Correct

 

Ideal, I know for the drivers side, yr passenger side I have it so it end on the side of the car as the photo, but on the passenger side it is on the inside I the car.

Wasn't sure whether it effected height or anything, as I do look at the car sometimes and think there is more gap on one side of the rear than the other.

 

Ooops I think I mis-read your post questioning the orientation of the spring. I'm not sure which way the end of the spring should end. I just know that the ribs/markings need to be facing towards the outside of the car.

There is a common complaint where the rear drivers side is sometimes lower by an inch in comparison to the passenger rear, even on a flat. I've experienced this before but when I park again it's perfectly normal. Not really sure what causes it.

 

Wondering if anything to do with the foot brake.

I'm guessing by looking at those attachments if you stand at the rear of the car the spring top should end facing you? Anyone with lowering springs can you have a look then ill go and twist mine accordingly.

 

Car needs some V8.

 

The manual is referencing aligning the spring to the top rubber bushing. Outside that the orientation of the now combined spring/bushing to the rear beam is pretty much irrelevant.

 

Sway bar on a fixed rear suspension? Can you explain what a sway bar will do?