hydrolock

i had previously put it in the windows/system32 .. now i also put a copy in the install /bin folder as well as the windows/system folder .. using win 7 .... .. now what ?

 

the error is " - do i need a newer version of the .dll ? is the priichat2 the right file for installing ?

 

Oh he could just replace the rod and piston, get some TIG welding on that block with some aluminum filler and patchwork and be up and running with the same motor in a jiffy .. no problem ...

(first 30 seconds)

 

so, it has boeen a major unfun time removing the lower pan .. which is like permaglued down there .. i dont think that thing would leak if you ran it _with_all 11 fasteners_ removed !!! i had to pry and push and pull and lever my but off for long periods before it gave .... getting pics now .. i dont have it up high and cant really get my eye up in there ...

 

- a shot of the CR cap end -- not a whole lot to see -- I was able to get a LED on aflexipble shaft and stick it way up in the cylinder up to the piston but not every one is visible -- its hard to tell if anything is really out of order ...
- another of the same thing from the other side of block ---
- blurry shot of the sump - no visible engine block breakage noticed...

 

- A clear shot of the sump from a different angle.
(pan #2 - or lower block? -- aluminum appears fully in tact -- but a die penatrant - magnetometry would tell the full story if hairline cracks exist)

Without an endescope it is very difficult to stick a camera up in the cylinder -- perhaps the LED can get it to focus up in there and maybe be able to get a clear shot of a full connecting rod ... --

I have the car tipped over (on 1 side), with 1 hydraulic (in front) and 1 scissor jack (in back) on the side I don't need access to ... with some backup jack stands under neath the up side 1 fr, 1 bk ---

 

845 nice clear shot up into the cylinder, (for the part we can see)...
842 things seem to be intact from this vantage point and visibility...
834 how u turn the crank from above -- u get the ratchet and 19mm on that 'golden' bolt with a breaker bar attached and u can get a fraction of a turn in with some finagling-- and more awkward jiggle/shake movement of the bar to get the ratchet click back in for the next partial rotation

 

is it easier to just install it on Linux / ?

 

i did do the very liengthy cygwin terminal simulator under win 7 ultimate. it was working ... (the cygwin)
-
ill try the old version now ...

. it
Thanks and will do ..!

 

I never tried nor had reason to try turning the crank by hand (or by way of ratchet) with the motor off - maybe moved it in nuetral by pushing but even then you would move quickly in the driveway before the ICE came on -- never thought to try it ....

 

kind welded up my own tool -- used up 2 welding rods .. about a 2 " piece of angle iron and a stripped out phillips head screwdriver (for the handle) a..and a lot of grinding !! i think screwdrivers, hammer and vicegrips probably were most valuable though ..

 

Well I have a scanguage 2 -- and according to their site it gives the hybrid bat state of charge ...

• Hybrid Battery Charge (for Toyota Prius and Ford Escape)
• And many more, depending on your vehicle's sensor design

Anybody using their SG2 to get the SOC ?

 

I hvavent been succesfuly with the priiguage and the ELM323 yet...

 

Jacked it up higher than I had it .. Had a mechanic buddy look at the motor .. we turned the crank back and forth the 1/8 it will ..
he really wanted to know because u can only see really 2 pistons from the pan 1 and u can kinda see sideways to 3 and 4 .. then he thought it might be up top in the valves so he pulled the valve coveer off and turned each camshaft .. then he knew it was back on the bottom and he was down there with his penlight turning and looknig and then laughing say the crank is broke --- he said down by #4 u could see the counter weight jump when u turn it --- he turned it and I couldn't see any jumping but the connecting rod look split ( he said that was normal) --- something is hitting -- we thought a valve might have jumped ... but he said he could see the #4 crank counterweight 'hop' -- looking through the bottom u can narrowly see the CR cap and the counterweight on #4 ... but I didnt see the 'hop' .. anyway -- something is hitting and binding and preventing crank rotation .. Iwas hopeful it was the top-end where the motor could stay in and be worked on .. -- but the very harsh shock vibration I felt when the car started with the water ingestion would have to be more than just a valve or cam (small movement) .. -- the motor has to be taken out and turned over (and likely the 2nd oil pan removed) to really see what he is talking about .... i did get some more pics but not from the new revelation at the block end of #3 and 4 ....

 

p

u mean priius doenst report a broken crank or cam / valves ???

 

finnally got the SOC put into Xguage and it gives me a reading of 26.5