engine block heater install...you can do it

THIS JUST IN:
Last weekend installed the EBH in our 2012.
Within 6 blocks she has reported that the cabin heat is fabulous.
Also reported is that the initial temps of air from cabin fan are not too bad.
We have had some sub-30 degree mornings so far, nothing drastic yet.
It is installed via a timer with indicator light and cut/out switch.
At this point the timer is on for about 2 hours.
Now the cabin is warm within the first 10% of the commute.

After work is a bit of a headache though.
The car is parked about a nine-iron away from the building.
That's a long cord to the EBH.
Other cars keep getting tangled-up in it throughout the day.
It's been stolen 4 times.
At this point I'm out $635 for extension cords.
Seems like a lotta dough for a $58 part.

So at the end of the day:
Install not so bad, didn't have to get under the car, 2.5 hours, ok.
Works pretty well for cabin heat within 6 blocks.
Gotta do some research for same conditions on return trip.

 

Not sure if it is the standard EBH or not.
It's the one they sell in Prius Chat Store and am trying to support the site.
It fits into a cylindrical pocket in the engine block.
Right now there's is nothing in this pocket, just a hole in the block
It is not the typical old school style that would heat the water jacket.
Another option (and a good one I think) would be an oil pan heater.
Simply an adhesive to the underside of the oil pan.
The heat will rise into the engine block at the same time.
Huge with diesel truck owners.
I'd think in your neck of the woods you'd know someone who is using some type of pre-heat system.
I'd rather have warm oil when I start than warm water but that's in reference to a water jacket type.
Using the same timer and such you could easily fire up an oil pan heater that would be a much easier install.
I believe Wolverine is one of the top producers of the oil pan style.
Try wolverineheater.com
I think lesser wattage in general but a different heating dynamic.
Lesser wattage of course more economical.
I also think it's not designated by vehicle but by capacity of fluid trying to heat.
Different shapes and such as well.
Although I pitty da' fool who uses the Mr. T shaped pan heater.
If you try to install an EBH and it's cold and uncomfortable, you may create other issues.
Find a comfortable place to do it or have a shop do it for you or try the oil pan type.
If I had heated seats I would have played golf that day instead of installing an EBH.
Heated seats are vailable on the next model up I think.

(upon further review: I think it is the OEM style)

Good tip on the generator but already tried that.
Had a nice wheeled/portable unit.
After the first day went out to the car after work and genny was up on blocks, tires and wheels stolen.
Whaddya gonna do?

Let us know how you do and good luck.

 

I did not put car on ramps or otherwise but maybe should have due to the fact that if I would have dropped a fastener or ? it would have probly fallen down to the cover pan deal and THEN I would have had to retrieve it.
I did not drop anything but then I am a mechanic by trade and occasionally lucky.
Another point is to mark where the wipers are before you start.
A piece of blue tape on the windshield and a mark so as to replace them in the same state you removed them in.
I will be standing at the front bumper and relating everything as to left and right from there (left=pass side..etc.)
Considering the brown acid at woodstock, I'll try to remember how it went.....let's begin, shall we?

Remove the plastic cap covering the nut that attaches the right (single) wiper to the stud.
Remove said nut.
A little pry if possible to help wiper off stud.
Remember the spring-action what keeps wiper on glass and try to neutralize.
If needed, screw nut back onto stud about 2 threads and hit with hammer lightly.
We're looking for a "shock" to help pop off stud.
DO NOT hit stud without the nut being on there or you may never get nut back on hammered threads.
The double-action wiper will come off pretty easily.
Remove plastic cowl.
The ends of the plastic cowl have a removable piece to help guide it away from hood attachments.
The plastic cowl squeezes off the windshield at wiping seal that follows contour of glass.
You have opened the hood right? Good. Let's continue
The wire harness @ wiper mechanism does not have to be unplugged.
Remove bolts holding wiper mechanism to metal plate.
Swing mechanism to your left and let it sit there on a blanket or towel or Ralph Lauren Quilt.
Basically swing it out of your way.
The isolation rubbers will stay with wiper mechanism except for the rear slide out one....I think.
A few will go thru mounted rubbers, the rear unit will slide out right to left.
Remove metal plate assembly.
This is a good time to clean the metal plate, clean and treat the plastic cowling.
If you throw your hips against the driver side fron quarter panel (right above front left tire) and lean forward with a flashlight you can see the EBH hole in engine block. Remember the size of the part and imagine the size of hole it will take. Also remember that is quite a snug fit. Not a lot of slop as it were.
Juiced Hybrid has a relatively good picture schedule of this install.
Print it out and keep it with you.
Right in front of the EBH hole is a bunch of wire looms and such and a fastener that needs to be removed.
As I recall you'll need an 10mm socket on an extension.
A decent extension. I used 3/8" drive deep socket with about 12" of extension.
Remove the fastener to be able to manipulate the wires fastened to gain access to the hole.
The hole access will not be easy, gonna have to work at it a bit.
Not hard just get a feel for it.
Make couple dry runs before you commit to an install with a greased-up part.
At this point you will want to be on the left quarter panel leaning in....the pass side.
It will be easier to install plug from left side than right for most people I'd think.
While installing you will be pushing wires out of the way, bear this in mind.
It's a bitt of a mofo, don't give up.
While leaning over left quarter panel (above front right tire) reach around a bit a get a feel for where this hole is.
The hole is actually on the driver side on the engine block angled down about 30 degrees.
Think of the angle and the related wires in the way.
Good time to add some of the thermo grease to the hole.
If you put all the grease on the EBH and then try to insert you'll find that you have removed all the grease while weaseling it around the wires trying to find the hole again.
I took about half the thermo grease on the end of my finger and slid it into the EBH hole before I tried to install it.
Maybe 2-3 passes until the half was clinging to the edge of afore-mentioned hole.
Rest of grease to EBH unit.
With left hand (wires in way kind of tied off or held back with other hand) I popped the EBH into it's location.
It doesn't just drop in. Get it started, wiggle it, rotate a bit, then you'll feel it's on it's way.
You are working with the unit that goes into the block and NOT the wires as well that are connected to it.
Once I knew it was just a matter of sending it home another inch or so I attached the cord/plug.
I added a small amount of Blue RTV sealant/adhesive to the plug.
I wanted to seal the plug to the EBH unit without having either the RTV or thermoseal goo from impacting the electrial connection. A valid concern.
At this point the EBH and plug connected to it are about 2/3 of the way in.
I used a 1/2 "wooden dowel to send it all the way home.
Carefully I tapped the dowel onto the end of the connector in the direction the EBH wanted to go.
It slid into place nicely and then it snapped into a fixed position.
Now I have an EBH in place and a connector securely fastened to it.
Reverse the removal process until you have no parts left.

Be careful.
Be patient.
Have enough time for this project don't short-sheet yourself.

Have fun. relax.
You can do this.

 

An alternative as previously mentioned may be an oil pan heater.
There is also a magnetic type that just ....uh....sticks to the oil pan.
Not sure if the power running the heat device/concept is also creating the magnet or what.
Do a little research. I bet you find something that will work for you.
Maybe NOT having to go thru all the hoops, whistles, BS, and dog and pony show of a giant out-of-touch and disconnected corporation is just the answer.

 

pee ess -
At the first light (6 city blocks drive) if stopped at light, engine stops.
That tells me that the engine temp has been satisfied enough for the engine to only start under demand.
Fascinating.

 

Not sure of Vegas temps in winter.
I put this on for her not to get better mileage but to make her more comfortable when she goes to the garage to get in the car and its been 10-20 degrees out for many days.

My general thought is that the Prius says it can do various things.
To do those various things it needs to be at a certain temp.
Everything's fine until then but at that optimum temp is where it can do the things you bought it to do.

Thusly even though the car will be at it's optimum temp (much) earlier in the ride to work in the morning, that's just a bonus. We live with the lesser mpg's under certain circumstances.
It's not a Swiss watch and it's not goin to the moon.
Sometimes we only get 45 mpg on a short run, cold temps, uphill both ways.
Right....45 mpg...bummer.

Neither one of these types of heaters are really cost preventative.
Choose the easiest one and give it a try.
Sounds like you're doing fine.

 

any dealer may have one in stock
drop by and have them hand you one
detect material, store results

 

Well done Marv.
Let us know how it goes.

 

spoofer?