HID cutoff not as good as I thought?

Dude I just emailed them a week ago or so. The recommended the same kit. D2S, right?

 

Are u sure the highbeam wasn't on on the projector? U might of had the lowbeam on the car but what if the high beams were wired wrong. Are u able to turn on the highbeam & see a change with the HID projector? The cutoff should look similar to ths:



As for the aim, park the car along side of a wall on a flat surface so that the light is shining down the wall. Not on the wall. Adjust the lights so that the beam is level all the way down the wall. Now turn the adjusting screw 1/2 a turn more to bring the aim down. The key is to ave the beam at a very slight slope. Once u have 1 headlight done, move the car so that the beam is now on the wall (head on to the wall) & adjust the other light to the same level.

 

Wiring is good, low beams definitely on. I just lowered them against the garage door quite a bit again. I'm definitely not seeing that sharp of a cut-off, though. The lighting currently shows a frown shape from each one as opposed to a straight, sharp cut-off. Maybe I just need to keep adjusting them - I guess it's possible they were all the way the opposite of where they should have been, but it's not easy getting the dial to turn since there's not much room with all the HID wiring and ballast in there.

I'll drive with them where they are at tomorrow night. Finding a place that I can park and aim them along the wall isn't very easy of the places I'm aware of.

Wasn't a D2S, it's the Mini H1 for the 2010+ Prius.

Morimoto Retro-Quik System - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc

At the bottom right you'll see the compatibility, that shows the Prius as the Mini H1.

 

I think I just screwed up the driver side.....I was trying to lower the projector further down, bc TRS said it seemed like the high beams were on also. Then I heard a "clunk", the projector beam went up and now it won't lower again. Any thoughts? I sure hope I don't have to take the bumper off myself to get the entire housing out to try to fix something......

I went for a drive, and it didn't seem awful, but here's pictures of the beam pattern of each projector on my garage door - about 5 feet from it. I wouldn't have expected this bowing pattern.

 

I'm telling u that the high beam solanoid is either active or is stuck open. U have no cutoff.

There is a point where u cannot adjust the level of the light anymore. If u force it, u will strip the inside of the plastic housing which is what u might of heard. Can u adjust the light up or down?

 

I didn't think they had a high beam solenoid, but now that makes sense from the wires coming OUT of the projector. I just unplugged both of them, and voila, the low beams are as they should be! I didn't even think about those wires when I had the installation done, and it clearly confused the guy doing the work.

I did strip the adjustment deal inside the housing. I'm not sure exactly how the lights are going to work where it's aligned, but I have it just about dead center on my garage door join between the lower 2 sections and i'm only about 5 feet from the door right now. I didn't take my camera out w/ me bc right now it's snowing, cold, and I didn't want to be out there any longer than necessary lol.

Thanks for your help! Hopefully the adjustment screw being stripped isn't a big deal.

 

5 ft away is too close to the wall. U should be about 25 ft away from the wall. I will try to take a pic along side of a wall to show u how the pitch of the beam should be.

 

Well, I knew where the OEM pattern hit around that distance on the door, so I went with it as a starting point since it's getting late here. I have no way to adjust the driver side right now since I broke the adjustment thing. I was going to see how they lined up in the parking garage at work tomorrow. For now, I'll live with how they're aimed.

I'm hoping to find out from Andrew @ TRS if I can get a single driver side projector and I'll install it in my OEM housing that was removed. Any idea if you can fix the adjustment thing since I stripped it? It definitely sounded like something snapped, so I'm hoping it's something I can JB Weld back into place if possible.

 

If its just the plastic bolt that snaps into the bracket, I have an extra 1 that came out of the busted JDM headlight I bought.

U don't need a new projector. It's the internal part of the headlight that might of broke, not the projector.

As for the pic, I'll have to get it 2omorrow.....its too late for me.

 

I'm not sure what broke, but I know it's not the projector. My reasoning for getting a single projector, was to retrofit the headlight that was removed from the car to give time to get the one on the car apart, fixed, etc since I'm not able to tell exactly what's wrong from the outside. I know for me to get the bumper removed, head light out, etc will probably take me 2-3 hours since I've never done it before. If I can get just a projector, I can do a quick swap and should cut down on my time the day of the work quite a bit.

I'm taking my tape measure with me to work today, as I'm going to aim at the wall of the parking garage from around 4 parking spaces out (should be close to 25 feet) and measure the drop in the light beam. That'll tell me exactly where I am.

 

So, the headlights aimed almost directly at the ground. It was an interesting drive home after work.

Since it's about 20 degrees here, and I'm getting sick, I chose not to fiddle with anything at work. I came home, and raised the passenger side up about 75% higher than where it was. The driver side is totally straight down, as I expected given the broken alignment piece. This should at least make the drive home better, albeit with only about half the road lit up. If the shipping works out as expected, the new projector should be here by Friday so I will try to get it all squared away this weekend - weather pending.

Sean, I may take you up on the plastic piece if I can't fix what broke. Live and learn......just wish it wasn't something so time consuming to fix.

 

Well, I just got my TRS HIDs. Looks good for a temporary set up. Looking for a set of used but good condition headlights to commence with the retro fit.
Overall i like it. I didnt really drive it yet. i took it around the block and thats about it. i have to get rid of those squirrel finders.

 

oh if anyone cares its the 35watt 5000k.

 

No problem. Are u going to open the light 1st to verify what actually happened or do u want it now to limit down time?

Is this something u think ui can tackle or u want to send the light to me & have me do it?

 

I'm going to try to verify what happened first. Since I'd already opened up this head light originally to send the OEM projector to TRS (eventually had to send the entire housings), I'm pretty confident that I'll get it open again. It may just take a little time, depending upon how I'm feeling. The reason I ordered a single projector from TRS is because I've got the spare on sitting in my house. This gives me a chance to take it apart, and see how things are setup, etc. before installing and taking apart the busted one.

 

No problem.


Here is the pic of My halogen projectors to give u an idea how they are aimed.

 

Thanks. I think I got the passenger side just about right. I'm going to hook the solenoid up for the driver side until I can get to fixing it. It might be a tad blinding for oncoming drivers, but right now it's aimed about 8 feet in front of the car right at the ground and I can't really see anything at all from it.

I'm going to shoot you a PM, now that I'm thinking about it I'd rather have that piece here ahead of time. I've been battling a sinus infection all week, and that's setting me back.

I think I do. I was actually close to calling, and forgot the 3 hr time difference so it would have been an acceptable hour out there lol.

 

I have finally started working on my TRS Retro -Quick HID install and I'm starting to run the wires. I have the ballasts mounted behind the plastic fender panels.

Hopefully a couple of quick questions:

1) Where and how did you mount the relays?
2) Is there an easy way to shorten the wires besides cutting and splicing?

 

1) u can use zip ties. I wouldn't use double sided tape cause if the tape fails, the ballast will fall in between the fender & could create a dent.

2) if u don't want to cut & splice then fold the extra length f wires together & use zip ties.