Planing CanView and BMS+ conversion with lithium

Yes I don't remove my cells when charging. It is possible but they weighs 75 kg.
But except one time my car stay in our garage. So cells temp is allways over 0°C, near 6-7°C now.
And then over 0°C when charging and when driving.
I will see this winter. Here when can have -10°C.

Fwd: Is your cell inflated ?
Could it be a balancing problem up to overcharging this cell ?

 

Have removed the battery pack.

First look at the cells is that it all looks ok
No blown up cells and no corosion yet

Next is to charge that one cell and to a cap test and then if its all ok , check the cellogs and bleedimg board.
-Tapatalk

-Tapatalk

 

FWD,
I have been having this same problem symptom you describe... I have isolated the KiloVac contactor from BMS+ 2 and the triangles stoped .. How did you resolve your Red flashing triangles ?
Norm was not aware others also seen this problem so he would be keen for an update also ....
Thanks ... Paul

 

It appears your problem started after connecting Contactor to CANvieswrelays ??
Mine started after connecting Contator to BMS+ in standlone mode.
BMS+ uses FET to switch the Contactor to ground.

 

I found the reason it happens after long drive is it only starts to occur once the OEM BMS has depleted SOC calculation and sets a trouble code that BMS+ intercepts ....
Appears now it is intermittently getting through from BMS+ ....

it seem odd that we have same symptom but yours it no even connected to BMS+ but to your canview V4 ??

 

Am using 72 cells here ... Can you please clarify the issues with 72 cells and the benefit of going back to 70 cells ??
What are the reasons and chnages in behaviour with 70 cell LiFe pack ?

Thanks

 

You have bms2 right? Not bms+

This/Thats Wy it importent just like i do to report any thing .
Even if it seems to be something stupid at firts or just minor . The only way to really test and analyse is with every bit and peace you can find.

I removed the bms+ wier away from the jc wire from my suplement battery pack.
This solved my problem at first... But some some times i stil have it.

I account this to interference on the obd2 wire from the bms commection
Maybe a shielded wire would be better?

-Tapatalk

 

JC wire? ?

Yes have BMS+2 latest version

My problem goes away if disconnect Contactor from BMS+2. Did not need to move the BMS+
but the contactor is on seperate 12v supply and then all is OK ...
I now have theory that "12volt ready " is a control line and maybe can run BMS+2 but is
marginal too much current draw when supply BMS+2 AND contactor together ?????
OR especially if Noise is inductively induced on it from the Contactor drive coil it can travel down
the "+12v ready" line right back to HVecu ???

 

Which cells are you using?

 

TS-Ningbo

 

TS is the maker but which cell exactly.

 

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After discussion with Norm have just completed a 75 KM test drive with the Contactor -Ve coil drive connected back upto the BMS+2 BUT the Contactor +12v coil side is now connected to external +12v supply NOT to the BMS+2 "+12v "Ready"" line on the 12 way connector.

Everything ran PuurrrFect ..... 0.4 l/100km while drive around town, 1.1 l/100km after highway drive of 10km at 100km/hr and finshed with a steep climb from sea level to 300 m.

Result : 75km 1.5 l/100km and NO REd Triangles ....

@FWD : You may want to test this configuration also if you still see Red Triangle flashes problem intermittently ?

Will leave like this for further test drives and then finally Re-Test with contactor coil +ve back on BMS+2 to check if
this recreates the original symptom. This will confirm the diagnosis AND fix if we can recreate the problem.

 

i think thats because the NOM voltage of the A123 is 3,3 and others are like 3,2 or maybe 3,7
so the number of cells for the perfect NOM battery pack voltage may be wrong..

that what i think wy lopex asking

 

HV

sorry

when there is tapatalk at the end of my post i posted it with my phone and auto spell correct ;-)

 

i did connect a external relay to the read-relay 4 of the canview where before i did use the canview relay to control the EV200 contactors.
but i also noticed that when placing the BMS+ beside the batterypack and the HV lines and then moving the bms+ away from the HV lines it is less frequent or almost gone now..

there is also the latest update ( that i have not yet run ) that moves some BMS+ code to different
pid

 

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Any update. Did the bad cell lose it's vacuum?

You can just buy one cell with full tabs from Aliexpress for US$40 includes delivery.

New Arrival!!!100% original new long tab 3.3V 20Ah A123 LiFePO4 Prismatic APP72161227 PHEV/EV/E REV cells+free shipping-in Rechargeable Batteries from Electrical Equipment & Supplies on Aliexpress.com

 

It was some time ago so my recollection is not too good. Which cells you use make a difference. The A123 20ah pouch cells has a very low internal resistance and hence has a lot lower voltage sag than most if not all other cells. I found that the ICE kept running more often when in PHEV mode and the NiMH pack got hotter when using 72 cells due to the extra cells despite having a HV battery fan modification. The Prius electronics has no idea that you have a PHEV kit so when the voltage reaches about 240v it will use the ICE to decrease the SOC and bring down the voltage because it was all designed to protect a 6.5 ah NIMH battery.

 

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