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Another problem with Automatic Headlight Leveling System

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by boostm3, Feb 8, 2012.

  1. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    Can we please keep this thread on topic.. There are other threads about aiming headlights .. This thread is specifically about the headlight leveling system and how to fix when it goes south, relative to the sensor.. Aiming gets done on halogen systems; the headlight leveling system pertains to the High Intensity headlights of some of the priuses.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The internet supplier probably is associated with a southern California retail dealer. Whether the G is a prefix or suffix, I suggest you call the supplier to discuss your concern.
    Yes, if you can find the headlight aim adjustment then in principle you can try to adjust the headlights yourself.
     
  3. PriusGuy32

    PriusGuy32 Prius Driver Extraordinaire

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    Sorry! I DO have the HID's and think I have a bad leveling sensor too.

    I wont reply again, I thought we were trailing the same issue here. Geesh.
     
  4. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    HUH?? if you have the HIDs then it is the same issue because you would then have the same offending sensor, and you have every right to respond.. Just to clarify, to introduce another topic in a thread is called 'threadjacking'; to respond to the same topic is perfectly fine and welcomed... Clear?
     
  5. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    PriusGuy32

    You mentioned your 07 was hit in the front and required extensive repair. If the headlight beams are pointed upward and you have not seen the red triangle with the headlight leveling sensor warning symbol on the MFD, then it's more likely to be the body shop repair that's the issue.

    Then again, it's not easy to know if it is the leveling sensor itself that is bad unless you swap in a known good sensor.
     
  6. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    Is jacking the car up and removing the rear left wheel required to gain access to this 'sensor'?
     
  7. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    Essentially......yeah. But you can also raise the rear end by driving the rear wheels onto car ramps which is a little easier than using a jack. Once the rear end is raised the sensor is easy to access.
     
  8. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    Good.. so since you suggest driving the rear wheels onto a ramp, I have to assume that wheel removal isnt necessary for sensor access!
     
  9. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    Yes, that's correct. The left rear wheel doesn't interfere with the removal whatsoever.
     
  10. Ct. Ken V

    Ct. Ken V Active Member

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    Hi again, boostm3,

    The letter "G" was a suffix (after the part number printed on the label affixed to the plastic bag containing the new sensor). I already had knowledge of that fact from one of these Prius forums back in 2006, so I asked the parts people to show me the part before it was taken back to the tech for installation & I verified that the label did include the "G" right after the part number on the Toyota factory label. Since that is a "countermeasure" part, that means that all the old parts without the "G" were supposed to be removed from stock & returned to Toyota so that the older ones would no longer be able to be installed accidentally. So whatever you get now SHOULD be the proper one with the "G". Because of this fact I don't know why I even bothered to mention about the "G". It's just that I was aware of it & wanted to share the fact & it COULD have been an issue for me back at that time because the countermeasure part was just newly released at my time of need & I was afraid the dealer would try to pass off one of the older parts on me. The "G" won't appear on any parts inventory list, but it should appear on the packaging label (if a genuine Toyota part). It's just a way for the parts people & the techs to verify that they have the latest engineering change of the part they are selling or installing. Good luck.

    Ken (in Bolton,Ct)
     
  11. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    Thanks, Ken. I really appreciate the thoroughness of your responses! Here's another question to anyone who's done the repair.. Can the car be driven, without the sensor, without creating any more fault codes or conditions than when the car is driven with the sensor in its broken state? What Im really asking is, can the sensor be removed, worked on for a few days, and the car driven in the interim, without setting new codes or in some way disabling the car functionally? Will the headlights 'work', albeit in the current extremely low aim, with the sensor removed, assuming the sensor is the reason for the low aim on the headlights?
     
  12. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    You could do this but you would need to make sure that the disconnected harness connector was protected from moisture and secured to the body while you worked on the sensor.

    It will be relatively easy to tell if it's possible to repair the sensor and it won't take days to repair it even if you can. I don't see a good reason why you are considering this. Any repair you make to the existing one most likely won't last long and might not restore the aim to the proper level even if you do. All my repair did was prevent the red triangle and MFD warning from being displayed. That red triangle is impossible to ignore - particularly at night.

    Caution: If you have not disconnected the sensor before you might experience the same problem I did. One of the three pins from my sensor was rusted solid in the harness connector and the pin snapped off from the sensor when I disconnected it. There was no way that I could have known. Just be aware this might happen and you will have a worse situation to deal with. I needed to crimp on a replacement harness connector when I obtained the replacement sensor - it was the only way I could do a complete repair. Maybe you won't need to but if your sensor has never been disconnected, then there's a chance that it will have rust in the connection as well. This sensor should have had a waterproof connector considering where it was located.
     
  13. edh53

    edh53 Junior Member

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    Folks, what we really need is a technically-minded customizer who can give us an alternative to the darn leveling sensor that we could use to manually aim the headlights--a little dial we'd wire in to replace the sensor so we would set and adjust the headlight levels manually as needed. High tech features like high intensity discharge lighting can offer some advantages, but I wish I could just pop in a $5 replacement halogen bulb instead and be done with it, with no need for leveling sensors! Ditto for my $250 LED brake light replacement, $1500 strut replacement, etc.
     
  14. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    Im with you!!
     
  15. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    $1500 for struts? No way. You can buy a full set of OEM Toyota shocks and struts for about $300 and install them yourself quite easily. Unless you're all thumbs or you aren't a gentile.

    My '05 Prius has over a light second of miles on it with the original suspension. It seems to be fine. The tires wear evenly. The alignment is straight. No discernable difference from my almost brand new 2o10 Nissan Versa that has only 14K miles on it. I know this to be true because I've taken each car over the same dips and bumps in the road and have not noticed any difference in the amount of bounce between the two.

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just my humble opinion. To each his own.
     
  16. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    I just got out from under the car.. Man that metal cross beam (chassis component) is low. Even with rear left tire on ramp, and me on low creeper, the beem is resting on my chest. At any rate, here's my problem:

    I dont have a boot on my harness connector.. Its a black plastic piece that attaches to the sensor plug in. . And, I couldnt find the magic switch to release the harness connector.. No way. Its not frozen.. It will jiggle and move on the sensor, but wont release. I found a sight indent into which I inserted a screwdriver. A black plastic tab lifted slightly, but when I pulled on the connector, it wouldnt release. Very frustrating.. Got a face full of grunge to show for it! Im sure Ill break it if I keep poking and pulling, so Im afraid next step is dealer appt.. Ugggh...
     
  17. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    The manual gives no additional info. It just says "1. Disconnect the connector." Naught else.

    Is it possible to remove the sensor with wire still attached, and get it into a better position to pull the plugs apart?
     
  18. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    I found success with the harness! All 3 pins are in tact and there is no corrosion in the connection.. removing the bolts now... will report back when its off.
     
  19. boostm3

    boostm3 Junior Member

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    Success! The springs were Slightly rusted but still had their complete shape, and there was a tiny bit of rust on the spring perches.. I used some steel wool, scraping, and wd-40 to remove the rust. I spread a tiny bit of silicone grease on the spring perches and the springs, and a little rtv sealant on top of the sealing O ring , and tested for continuity between the seated spring tops and the 3 connector prongs.. Once I had continuity at all 3 contacts, I knew I had a good chance of succeeding.. The red dash triangle I had gotten last Feb has long since disappeared, so the only test was to take her down off the ramp and drive.. And drive I did.. I was so pleased to see normal headlights again.... I must have saved over $500 doing this.. And to think I came damn close to calling the dealer to fix. Some folks said it might get rid of the triangle, but probably wouldnt do anything to the light..

    Lighting is good as new. For me, the toughest part, the part that almost made me fold my tent, was separating the harness connector from the sensor.. But apparently I finally hit the latch release at just the right angle with my screwdriver them to separate.
     

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  20. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    You need to press the tab down firmly to release the retainer and then you will be able to slide the harness connector off. The tab is on the same side as the left rear wheel.

    Why on earth did you use only one ramp? Only had one? You would have had plenty of room to access the sensor with two. And.....I didn't use a creeper. Just a piece of cardboard. No wonder you had difficulty.