So, just to bump this up... Anybody know for sure the size of the front door speakers ? I'm guessing 6.5 inches for the midrange and either .75 or 1 inch for the tweeter ? I haven't gathered up the courage to take the panel off yet. Still afraid I'll mess something up.
Yeah I'd like to know as well. I have some speakers in my Tacoma. Two are 6.5" and two are 6x9". I know my Tacoma speakers need special adpaters to get the speakers to fit. Curious if the C needs them as well. Maybe I'll just rip my door panel off and look for myself. SGH-I777 ?
Well I took my panel off and they look to be 6.5". But they do look as though they need adapters to be able to screw the after market speakers into the door. I'll upload a pic when I get home. Door panel was very simple to get off. SGH-I777 ?
heres a pic of the front drivers side speaker...i also took some quick pics of the door panel removal process if anyones interested....
Lunercrab, thanks very much ! Tell me, was it a pain to get the panels off or no big deal ? Yes please, I'd appreciate any photos of the process. You know, I emailed Crutchfield about having the C in their database but they said just check back every couple of weeks. I bought a subwoofer driver and am making my own enclosure for the hatch area. This stuff scares the pants off me ( I don't want to mess up the car ) however I think it would be cool when it all comes together ( assuming it does ).
It was actually pretty simple. Easier then my Tacoma. Here's what I did. First u take a screw driver and unscrew the screw by the door handle. Then take something thin like a a plastic trim remover or in this case I used a thin pear knife and gently run it under the window switch panel lifting up gently to pop it out of the holes its snapped into Then u disconnect the white switch cord ( I didn't do that cause I was just peeking behind) Next you'll see two screws u need to unscrew where the window switch was Once u do that if u feel at the bottom of the panel there are small gaps to either stick ur fingers under or something again flat and just start pulling the panel toward u. Once the first snap pops out the rest come easily. Just work ur way around the door. Once those are popped out u just simply lift the door panel upward to remove it completely Here's the snaps and inside the panel side of the door Its very easy actually. Just be gentle so u don't scratch the panel SGH-I777 ?
Has anyone confirmed if the tweeter size is .75'' or 1''? Haven't seen a definitive answer on this yet.
actiondonkey, I can't confirm the tweeter size, I don't have mine anymore. But from my experience putting the Alpine components in my car, it's irrelevant. The tweeters are glued to a plastic mount that I was unable to re-use / didn't even bother to try. I took the whole works out. In the end I superglued my Alpine tweeters to the back of the door panel and then covered them with some very strong tape. haha. Hey, it worked.
I put a new set of components in mine today... I decided to reuse the OEM mount since it is optimally positioned and required no glue/adhesive. The glue that holds the tweeters on the OEM mount is easily broken and looks to only be in place to prevent rattling/vibration. If anyone is interested: On the back of the mount are 2 slots which a small flat head screwdriver will fit. Insert a screw driver and pry outward in both slots to break the glue seal and release the tweeter component. The driver comes right out. I then broke off the two mounting tabs that where holding the tweeter in place and drilled a 1/8" hold in the middle. On my new tweeters' mount, I just inserted a machine screw (I used 1/2", but it depends on your tweeter mount) and a nut on the back of the OEM mount. The new tweeters are now correctly positioned to align with the door panel.
Just FYI, Following is JP Aqua (Prius c) speaker specifications. source: Aqua speakers (JP language) 6 speaker model Column 1 0 [tr][th]type[/th][th]location[/th][th]mark[/th][th]diameter[/th][th]power(W)[/th][th]max(W)[/th][/tr] 1 [tr][td]front speakers[/td][td]lower front doors[/td][td]B[/td][td]16 cm[/td][td]22[/td][td]44[/td][/tr] 2 [tr][td]tweeters[/td][td]upper front doors[/td][td]A[/td][td]2.5 cm[/td][td]20[/td][td]40[/td][/tr] 3 [tr][td]rear speakers[/td][td]rear doors[/td][td]C[/td][td]16 cm[/td][td]22[/td][td]44[/td][/tr] 4 speaker model Column 1 0 [tr][th]type[/th][th]location[/th][th]mark[/th][th]diameter[/th][th]power(W)[/th][th]max(W)[/th][/tr] 1 [tr][td]front speakers[/td][td]lower front doors[/td][td]B[/td][td]16 cm[/td][td]22[/td][td]44[/td][/tr] 2 [tr][td]rear speakers[/td][td]rear doors[/td][td]C[/td][td]16 cm[/td][td]22[/td][td]44[/td][/tr] 2 speaker model Column 1 0 [tr][th]type[/th][th]location[/th][th]mark[/th][th]diameter[/th][th]power(W)[/th][th]max(W)[/th][/tr] 1 [tr][td]front speakers[/td][td]lower front doors[/td][td]B[/td][td]16 cm[/td][td]22[/td][td]44[/td][/tr] Ken@Japan
Lunercrab thanks for the great pictures. That tells me everything I needed to pull the rear door panels.
The door speakers certainly aren't a normal size. I was able to mount 6.5" JBLs in my doors, but had to use the included adapters and drill new holes in the sheetmetal. It seems a 7" would easily fit, however the restriction is the available depth once the window is rolled down. An adapter made from marine plywood would be a good solution [because it's a "wet" door], as it would adapt to the factory bolt pattern, provide additional speaker depth, and add some rigidity to the door sheetmetal.
Any reports on the sound quality improvement? I'm really curious to see what type of sonic gain might be had just from replacing the speakers and leaving the existing headunit (nav system in the C 3) in place in the dash (or if possible, suppliment with a power amp fed from the factor headunit). thanks!
My stereo sounds excellent now. The resolution and soundstaging is on par with the OEM Dynaudio system that was in my Golf TDI [an honestly good OEM system], however I now have correct and clean bass response. The frequency response is quite flat; I shelved up the bass response a couple dB because that's just my preference. My only complaint is the noise floor on the head-unit is higher than I prefer, so extremely quiet passages have audible background noise. I can't say if the factory Nav system is better or worse, but the cheap head unit in the C-2 is way better than I ever expected.
Thanks! Which particular JBL speakers did you install (I'm not very familiar, but I'm assuming there are different grades/levels that all come in a 6.5 " size)? Component JBLs up front with full-range in the back? How you feel that JBLs (the level you purchases) compare with the Polk DB series? Thanks for your input!
It's all chronicled in my Project Build Thread JBL Power's should be on par with Polk DB in terms of resolution and overall sound quality. The JBL's are more efficient and are 2 ohm load, both of which played into my selection of a small full-range Class-D amplifier. You won't go wrong with either if you're also adding an amplifier.