Tire size for 16'' wheels?

Aftermarket wheels use a different style of wheel lug nut than OE wheels. They use a tapered style acorn nut whereas the OE wheels use a nut wish a flat washer built in (mag style).

Lug Nut Seat Styles | eHow.com

I'm not sure about the TPMS rebuilt kits. I tried arguing against it but they were pretty resistant and since I didn't know I just let them do it.

 

Practically, the reason that aftermarket alloy wheels use tapered seat lug nuts has to do with centering the wheel. On the OEM alloy wheel, the center hole in the wheel is specifically machined to allow tight alignment with the boss on the flange of the axle. While centering adapter rings are sometimes used with aftermarket wheels and "washered" flat faced lug nuts, alignment is much easier achieved using the centering effect of tapered lug nuts on the studs.

If you are installing a TPMS sensor used originally from one wheel to another, it is a good idea to use a "rebuild kit," since the sealing gaskets acquire a "set" on the original wheel and might not seal effectively in the hole on the NEW wheel.

Hope this helps to eplain it.

 

Can I buy these wheel nuts from another place, if so how do I tell the specs of those lug nuts? I kind of want colored ones instead of just silver for $45.

 

Yes, absolutely. As long as they are all made within SAE specifications, you're fine.

For Toyota and many imports, they need to have M12x1.5 threads.

 

I maybe looking at wrong ones, but does length of it matter? I found a blue one with 50mm, I saw other ones with 70mm... which one?

 

50mm should be fine. Some longer length aftermarket studs are designed to be use with wheel spacers. When fitting wheels without the spacers, a lug nut with a longer and deeper cavity is needed.

 

you need to make sure you get the right lug nuts. find out from the wheel manufacturer or the tech people where you buy your wheels. ultimately, i'd want to look at the wheels myself before i bought nuts. sometimes the "tech" folks don't really know either. using the wrong nuts can be dangerous. if you don't know what you're looking at, find someone who does. centering rings are good too, but not always necessary if you know what your doing.
+1 on the sensors. you need the kits, but you shouldn't have to buy sensors.

 

As I recall, prior to the 1990's the aftermarket alloy wheel trade use the same "flat" washer lugs nuts as the OEM wheels. They switched to the tapered ones for the reason I stated. Prior to that era, the industry had to make and specify a lott of center adapter rings.

You're welcomed to check with the professionals. They will tell you the same as I have stated. I am giving you the industry standards.

 

i'm not one to split hairs, but back in the day the aftermarket used all sorts of lugs; some were junk, ie. "unilug" wheels. if the aftermarket has standardised lugs now, well it's about f'ing time. but i see at least 3 different kinds of lug seats on Benz aftermarket wheels, and customers show up w/ wrong lugs all the time for their chinese aftermarket junk. only once have i seen a wheel come off due to wrong lugs; the customer was not hurt, but it did alot of damage to the front spindle area. therefore, i'd make sure the lugs i bought had the correct taper (if the wheels have conical seat lugs), or length if the wheels have stock type lugs. don't assume the aftermarket will sell you the correct lugs, they don't care if your wheel falls off at 70mph.

 

Okay, For DR33 17x7.5? Please specify the specs that I need to seek, I know Mike say M12x1.5 threads, is there certain length that I need to look at?

 

If you are buying from TireRack or Discount Tire they will sell you the correct ones. This is especially true if they are installing them for you.

 

^+1. other than that, your wheels should come with instructions that will tell you what you need. if you choose to buy lugs from a different source than the wheels, look at the lugs and the seats in the wheels to make sure they match. if you don't know what your looking at, a good shop will have a tech capable of determining if the lugs and wheels will work together. but a high school drop out tire jockey making $7/hr probably will not know or care; he'll slap them on your car and over-torque them with an impact gun and not even look to see if its safe.

 

The problem is I don't have them near me, I'm in east side and they're in west lol, I'll have them put the wheels and tires together but I'll be buying the nuts separately..

 

Ahh ok. Sorry for the confusion.

 

The Made in USA McGard branded lug nuts are best in the business and have about the best chrome plating.

This is the exact size that you need.

Amazon.com: McGard 64012 Chrome Bulge Cone Seat Style Lug Nuts (M12 x 1.5 Thread Size) - Set of 4: Automotive

Toyota Branded wheel locks are made by McGard.

These are the ones that you need;

McGard 24137 Chrome Cone Seat Wheel Locks (M12 x 1.5 Thread Size) - Set of 4 : Amazon.com : Automotive

Or, here's the total set of lug nust and wheel locks in one;

McGard 84537 Chrome Bulge Style Cone Seat Wheel Installation Kit (M12 x 1.5 Thread Size) - For 5 Lug Wheels : Amazon.com : Automotive

Hope this solves your dilemma. Just read the reviews. They say it all.

 

unless you want blue anodized lugs...

 

R

Ricer!

 

Thanks MIKE, now about the color, I was going for gold for gold wheels...but who got some pictures of good nuts going with gold wheels?

 

I'd stick with chrome painting. The gold standard for strength and durability is steel. From my aircraft engineering days, we used steel only when it's got to be strong and where it just can't be allowed to fail. The only problem with steel is weight.

Most all anodized aluminum lug nuts are made from 6061-T6 aluminum bar stock, because it is less expensive and much easier to anodize.

The best anodized aluminum ones are made from 7075-T6, which is the strongest alluminum alloy widely available. It is amost twice as strong as 6061 but cost 4 times as much and very difficult and very expensive to anodize, since it requires a complicated and expensive process.

Since most casual consumers don't know the difference, most all are the weaker 6061 alloy.

 

Won't there be problem with steel nuts being in contact with aluminum wheels? I thought aluminum parts should go with aluminum restrainers to prevent erosion or sort....newbie engineer here