Replacing JBL speakers

I don't know how different the JBL's sound vs the regular speakers that come with the display audio, but I was very disappointed in the sound of my sound system w/ display audio. The sound is odd and feels very artificial like its being reproduced by a cheap synthesizer. Voices are fairly clear but all other highs are not and low end base is weak while somehow still being overdone like having a constant muffled pounding and mid's are nonexistent. I really didn't enjoy listening to music in the car and I pretty much stuck to listening to talk and news, which is a shame since there are so many options: radio, HD radio, Satellite radio, Aux in, USB, Bluetooth, Entune, and even the occasional CD.

After upgrading my system, I absolutely love going for a ride in the car with the music playing. I went with JL Audio C2 6x9's (highest level JL Audio 6x9 offered) in the front and C2 6 1/2 coaxial (no need to go components or C5 in back) in back with a JL Audio Slash V3 300/4 channel amp (has built in speaker level inputs and is one of the nicest 4 channel Class A/B amps under $1000).

Couple of notes.

Since the head unit is so integrated in the car, I assume most owner's would want to keep it. Well it only has speaker level outputs so you'll need either a line out converter (which can actually introduce more noise as the more stuff you add the more possibility for more noise to be introduced) or an amp with built in speaker level inputs and converter.

Also, the front door speakers are 6x9 but aftermarket 6x9's won't fit unless you do some modifications - if you still want to fit 6x9's and you want the door panel to go back on like stock make sure you or your installer is capable of doing the modifications AND that the speaker you choose will still fit even with the modifications. If you go with 6 1/2 in front it may have less bass than 6x9 and you may want or need to add a subwoofer. If you're going to add a subwoofer anyway just go with 6 1/2's.

You basically want to go with coaxials in front and rear unless you want to punch holes somewhere and have tweeter grills showing. There are tweeters in the top dash but they are on separate channels and you DO NOT want to DISCONNECT THEM! They actually sound fine and the head unit send only about ~20 watts to them so you basically don't want to upgrade them because then you'll probably have to power them with a separate amp if you replace them with high quality tweeters. BUT the real reason you shouldn't disconnect them completely and just run the other 4 channels (or 6 if you have the 8 speaker system) is because they are basically the speaker for the Bluetooth phone system - well my installer said it was a little more complicated, first the sound goes through the dash tweeters then is channeled to all the speakers, but if the tweeters are disconnected the whole loop fails. If you disconnect them and run the tweeters from components coming from the two channels powering the front doors you'll loose your phone speakers - I know because my installer tried it. He said there are ways using relays, automatic switches, or whatnot's - I didn't really get that part, I just left them in.

Another thing about the bluetooth phone system is that it's always ON. Even when you turn the audio off all the speakers are getting power because the phone is always in a ready state. That means a signal is always going to the speakers, so if you have an Amp that means a signal is always going to the amp. It's almost impossible to have purely clean signal, and our head units are apparently a little less clean so there is always a static hiss coming from the speakers, it's just if you have music playing it drowns out the hiss. If you have a really nice amp then there should be plenty of controls to play with to reduce the hiss while still getting good sound. I was able to reduce mine low enough that you can still hear it if everything is completely silent and you're listening for it, while still being able to provide enough juice to power my speakers to where I'm very happy with the sound.

 

Hey Mandasol....I just got my new Prius V5 last night...pretty disappointed with the rears. Mine does not have the JBL system.

When I looked up the car on Crutchfield, they said 6.5 in front and 5.25 in rear. Are you sure about the 6x9's?

Also, did your installer hook up the 300/4 using factory wiring to speakers (out of factory, into speaker level ins and back out to factory wiring harness)? Or did he tap sound from speaker outputs at the factory 'speaker' harness?

I'm thinking about adding an amp, like maybe a digital amp like the new Alpine MRX-F35 or boosted rail Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4, and also replacing the factory speakers with some Polks I have (I love JL btw). But, I don't want to mess with factory harnesses too much as the Honda dealer just gave me some $h1+ about a factory deck being put back into it before I traded, and it having a problem related to my 'aftermarket' deck. Ended up doing it myself.

So, 6x9 in front door is my main question; and also, did installer splice into factory harness? Or did he use aftermarket harness adapters from Metra or Scosche?

Thanks!!

 

BTW see your a bike rider too!

Santa Cruz Tallboy Carboon w XT
Cervelo R3 BB Right Dura Ace
Cervelo P2 with Ultegra

 

Most of us who have changed out the speakers have gone with 6x8 up front and the 6.5 in the rear. As Mandasol indicated, if you add an amp (highly recommended) you will probably need a line out converter. Regardless of the speakers you choose to replace the originals, to get that nice "fill" I highly recommend you also add a subwoofer. Its makes a world of difference, trust me. My post on speakers conversion is here in the forum somewhere but I'm too lazy to find it and link it.

 

Micheal, yeah I got the V instead of the hatchback so I can haul more cycling gear

My installer used the speaker wires from the head unit into the speaker level inputs to the AMP (they rigged up something like this:
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter (bare speaker wires to male RCAs) at Crutchfield.com
) and then ran all new wiring to the speakers. I went with JL Audio cause it didn't need a separate line out converter.

6x9's fit but the guys that did my install do a lot of custom work and had the experience to make it work. It looks like most recommend going with a smaller size - don't know if you could really tell a difference in the sound anyhow though.

I'm satisfied with the sound of my system but I would agree with Mac Prius that a sub would really help round out the sound and I don't listen to any bass heavy music. I just didn't want anything taking space in my V because I need all of it.

 

I value the rear space as well which is why I went with an 8inch sub in a ported box. It provides plenty of bass and I had the installers hook it up so I could easily just unplug two wires to pull it out if I needed the space.

 

Just picked up my 2013 GenIII package five yesterday and turned in my 2010 (with nav and JBL). I can honestly say this new jbl greenedge sounds like nice person. I'm so disappointed. the marketing says it weighs a third less than the previous, uses less power, blah blah. well guess what, the sound quality is also a third as nice as the previous. The lows aren't as warm and cabin filling as before, and yes, like a previous poster mentioned, it sounds fabricated and doesn't seem to really "surround" me like before.

I can't live with this system for three years (my lease term), my music is too important on my daily commute. A few questions:

-what do I replace it with? can I do speakers only or do I need an amp too?
-cost? this is a leased car so I don't want to spend $$ unnecessarily.
-will it fit seamlessly into the doors, ect without added holes or amp boxes in the cargo area?

thanks for any input!

 

I have almost the same questions as the above poster has. Will changing the speakers alone make a marked improvement in the sound quality? What speakers do you recommend? I read about speaker replacement in different threads here but I'm still confused as I'm really dumb when it comes to audio equipments, wiring and anything that has to do with a car. I'm not an audiophile either. I just want good sound for an affordable price (under $500). Having read some of the speaker related threads I'm confident that I can get the door speakers replaced. But I don't have any clue about installing an amp or a subwoofer (assuming they won't be very expensive). Or should I take the car to an auto audio shop and get it fixed? Please advise.

 

If price is a primary factor and you are looking to improve the sound quality over the stock system, you might just start with replacing the door speakers and determine if the improvement in quality is good enough. "Good sound" depends on your expectations. If just replacing the speakers isnt enough of an improvement , adding an amp will give the new speakers the additional power they need to get the best performance but also increase your costs. Personally, I have to have a sub woofer to not only add the bass but also the fill that only a sub can provide. But even without my sub, the sound from my speakers and amp were a huge improvement on the trim level 2 system. You could probably get away with spending under $500 but it all depends on the quality of the speakers you choose, amp or no amp, install labor, etc. Take a trip to your local car stereo store and check out your options.

 

Thanks Mac. Appreciate your suggestions. I'll talk to Crutchfield and see what they say as I'm not sure if I can find a good store locally.

If any of you know of any picture or video link for installing amp and sub-woofer please let me know.

 

Where (on which speaker) found your installer a full audio signal to transfer to the sound processor? Mine catch the signal from the dash and front speakers but the result is distressful beacuse permanent (white) noise comes from the whole system. Is it possible to eleminate the white sound without replace the OEM head unit?