Cleaning & Waxing Input?

Show me. Impossible to get grit stuck to the blade as it has a T edge.

 

No--not impossible. Very possible--I've heard/seen the horror stories. Whatever makes you happy.

 

I live in an apartment, so don't have access to a hose. Tried out Optimum No Rinse today and it worked out well. Used a single bucket with a grit guard. Didn't go all out and use the two bucket method. Also clayed the car with clay magic.

 

I'm happy. Show me some stories.

 

If a person can't tell if their silicon blade is contaminated, they should pay $15 and drive thru a car wash.
If this person CAN tell the difference, they should use a nice spray wax as they are drying the car with the remaining drops of water on the paint (post blade) and a couple nice drying towels. These towels will soon be impregnated with a semi-moist-waxy feeling that can easily remove the final drops of water from the door jambs and hatch jambs leaving a minimal but existing wax coating.
It's perfect really.
No terry cloth please.

 

Also applied some Klasse sealant to the car. Paint looks and feels great.

 

The issue is that even a single piece of grit that gets stuck on the blade, and dragged across the surface of the car before you notice it, can do serious damage. This isn't hypothetical--I've read/seen it posted on several car enthusiasts forums. Try a google search.

 

stream - I'm not saying that it can't happen, it certainly can. You are right. It's a good tip. But....
It's a matter of paying attention, being detail oreinted, and caring about what you're doing.
If a person repeatedly drops the sponge or water blade on the ground, wipes it off on their pants and continues to use it, something bad will probably happen.
You can't fix stupid.

asianstyles - the Klaase sealant has been a great product for many years. Had an '91 MB 420 SEL and used it frequently. Adding a bit to the wash water was a real popular thing back then. Can't go wrong with that one.

 

At the expense of beating a dead horse serious damage can occur simply by picking up a piece of grit stuck to the paint surface (even after carefully washing), and then dragging it with the blade--without you even knowing it. Even someone very careful (who doesn't drop it on the ground) can have this happen--I've read about and seen it.

 

Sealants are synthetic, while waxes are generally natural (Carnauba), though many products labeled as "waxes" these days also contain synthetic chemicals. Sealants generally offer longer lasting protection. They key word is generally, as there are also waxes that offer just as long of protection.

 

Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: California Water Blade 14"

 

motifone - it's not my thread but has some good info as I recall posted it as reference.
Terry cloth can indeed create scratches but how close are you looking.
You decide.
To do a real good job in a decent amount of time: clay the paint, apply a sealant (wait for it to cure if necessary) apply a nice wax finish. Normally a new car can be washed, clayed, apply a one-step sealant (known as an all-in-one) and a decent wax in about 3 hours.
The all-in-one will have a bit of polish to it (minimum abrasives) with a sealant added as a combo.
Its's not a cleaner-wax it's a cleaner-sealant.
I clean my tires with a good all purpose cleaner then after they dry apply a nice coat of Aerospace 303. It's a natural look and seems to be ok while the tires are new.
I'm not a shiny tire guy.

stream - let it go, we get it

 

Use a detailer or nice car wash as a lubricant for your clay.
Simple - too much lube and the clay hydroplanes on surface, too little and it sticks.
It's VERY easy to do.
You can do your entire car (at least horizontal panels and tops of verticals) in 15-20 mins.
You'll have it down in about 5 minutes and wonder why you've never done it before.
Don't waste time waxing/sealing without it.
You're in a great place being able to garage at home and at work.
Do a good job once and all you'll be doing is a simple wash for a long time.
If ya can find the time.

Good luck to you in whichever direction you go.

 

I normally go front to back on all strokes done by hand.
Most of my products are applied with a machine so don't do too much hand work.
Always use a premium microfibre towel to wipe off products.
There are many to choose from.
I recommend the store at Autogeek.net
There is a section on microfibre towels on listings at left side.

read-learn-buy-enjoy

 

Comments in bold below.

 

Yes. The circular is more noticeable, thus the front-back ploy.