I AM SO ANGRY re: oil change!!!

breaker bar.

 

Use your foot to push on the wrench, make sure it's on good and doesn't slip off.

 

You can either invest in a breaker bar... or tap on your wrench with a dead-blow hammer (technically you're not supposed to do that, but it does works )

 

Add a piece of metal tube to make the wrench longer that will make it easy. Flatten one end of the tube if it will not fit over the wrench.

 

Once again there is absolutely no reason for these oil change monkeys to ever tighten the oil pan drain bolt or the oil filter as tight as they do. Nor the tire lug nuts for that matter.

You should be fine using the washer again.

 

Congradulations on doing your own work Julia, things will get easier. Just remember, never push on a wrench ( a knuckle buster ) as suggested always use extra leverage ( foot or breaker bar ) never use leverage to tighten. The first time is always the hardest!

 

It's fortunate that the service monkey did not "cross thread" or strip out the hreads in the nut welded inside to the sheet metal in the oil pan. Worse yet, they might have broken the weld.

Good job.

 

From my nearly 50 years of changing oil, this is the best method that I discovered..............

And, that's waht I did for my new Prius "v," and posted it in this thread;

First oil change at 3238 miles................ | PriusChat

 

Thanks for your feedback, I always spill at least a little oil, I just wipe it off with newspaper, it all disappears in a week or two. I have never figured out where it goes. I think it evaporates into the air, just like water. Now you have to tackle rotating your tires!

 

1. This is why it is recommended that you use a torque wrench to tighten the oil drain pan plug. If you tighten it to 28 ft-lb you know that it is at spec and is neither overtightened, nor will it come loose.

2. Buy a 1/2" breaker bar to use with your 14 mm 6-point socket to give you leverage when you are loosening the drain pan plug. You may alternatively use a 3 ft long pipe (cut from a steel pipe TV antenna mast, for example) to place over your 1/2" ratchet wrench to provide additional leverage, but this is not an approved practice.

3. When tightening the oil filter, the spec is to turn the filter 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the engine machined surface. However I have found that 1/2 turn is adequate.

4. The correct drain plug washers can be found at your Toyota dealer's parts counter.

5. Buy and utilize disposable latex gloves.

6. Use newspaper under your car and a large drain pan, 6 quarts capacity or so.

7. There is usually a learning curve for any worth-while activity. Next time you do the job (if you obtain the correct tools) it will go much easier and neater. Congratulations on surviving your first oil change.

 

Listen to Patrick, his advice is always flawless aand Complete!

 

You will have it aced after a couple more oil and filter changes. I'm surprised you had no difficulty with the filter? I use the washers a few times, never change after first oil change. In the old days we never ever changed the washer. Just another money grab I feel. Keep up the good work! H

 

You don't need strength, it's just technique. Also it is extremely valuable to know how to change a tire. My daughter and her boyfriend were on a lonely road in Mexico. Her boyfriend did not know how to change a tire, so she did it. Why, I taught her.

 

Julia,
I think it is great you have started down the DIY road. It took a Prius for me to start doing these easy jobs, and now I would not even think of taking the car to a dealer. The second time is much easier, and after that a breeze.

Definitely follow Patrick's advice; your hands will thank you for the gloves.
Btw, if you used a good synthetic oil most of us agree that the car is happy on a 10k mile change schedule.

A prize for you for becoming a grease monkey: PM me an address and I'll send you 3 washers. I bought a box of them (more than I can use in a lifetime) at bulk prices a couple years ago.