PIS 4kwh PHEV kit assembly and installation odyssey

[edit]Per mrbigh in post #3, I'm going to add time estimates to each step below. Since I don't have a photographic memory I'll do this as I describe each step in a detail post.[/edit]

This thread will document all the stages and quirks I went through receiving, assembling, and installing the PIS 4kwh PHEV kit. As of this date, the kit is in the car and providing mostly pure EV driving...for city miles. For highway miles, it runs mostly blended mode...at least for the 10 or so miles I've driven on the highway.

I'll include photos and descriptions of what was done/happened during this odyssey. I label it an odyssey because it's been quite a journey from start to finish.

Major steps:
1. assemble battery holders [30-45mins]
2. insert batteries and put top set of holders on to create the basic battery module [1 to 1.5 hrs]
3. assemble the BMS pieces. This includes cutting, stripping, and soldering wires and ring terminals together. [7-10 hrs depending on how skilled you are]
4. mount BMS on battery modules. This includes gluing BMS boards to fiberglass substrate and screwing ring terminals to battery terminals. Bus bars are connected at this point as well. [~1hr to glue BMS cells to substrate and glue substrate to battery modules; 2-3 hrs to connect ring terminals and bus bars]
5. solder jumper wires from each BMS cell to neighbor cells; validate connectivity [1-2 hrs]
Steps 6 & 7 take less than 1/2 hr total
6. add connecting leads between end BMS cells of each battery module
7. connect HV connectors to +/- terminal posts of each battery module
8. put battery modules into battery trays and seal [30-45 mins]
9. install front controller. Includes connecting EV signal leads from front controller to under-dash plugs; connect OBD-II plug; connect one end of ethernet cable to front controller...other end goes to rear controller [1.5 to 2.5 hrs...depending]
10. install bumper plug [30-45 mins]
11. remove lots of trim and covers so kit can be installed in car...this phase and the next couple took me almost 12 hours to complete.
12. run wires in driver side passenger door trim tray from front to back of car and vice versa through various holes in and around HV battery. [~30 mins]
13. place charger behind/under driver's seat and connect wires
14. connect HV leads and Ready line to Prius HV battery [30-45 mins]
[edit]moved step reinstall covers down by two[/edit]
15. connect wires from front of car (charger, front controller) to rear controller and contactor unit [5-10 mins]
16. connect rear controller to 12v battery [20-30 mins]
17. reinstall most covers, rear seatbacks, and door trim (reverse of step 11) [~1 hr]
18. place rear controller and contactor box in plastic bucket cargo area [20-30 mins]
19. place batteries in cargo tray and secure[15-20 mins]
20. connect batteries to HV leads[5 mins]
21. turn unit on and test![Don't let the magic smoke escape!!!]

 

Firstly...the parts to the kit.
As those of you who followed my posts on the earlier thread know, not everything came in at once. But here are pics of what I got:
o Batteries and bus bars

o Battery holders...not all arrived at once!

o contactor unit

o front controller

o rear controller

o lots of wires, charger

[edit]Some parts I forgot and not shown:
152 terminal ring connectors (for BMS cell leads)
2 fusible links--to be used in place of one bus bar in the middle of each battery bank
[/edit]
[edit2]more pieces I forgot...they came in late from PIS:
3 outlet extension cord (cut end off and attach to bumper plug)
4 pieces of fiberglass substrate (to mount BMS cells on and attach to battery bank)
[/edit2]

 

Good idea. I'll try to remember how long each phase took. For the most part though, the long parts were done over several evenings, about 2-3 hrs each evening as I DO have to work during the day and the wife demands HER share of my time as well.

[edit]BTW, this is in no way, shape, or form, a "pre-assembled" kit. Aside from the front/rear controllers and the contactor being pre-built, plus the connectors for the HV lines already put on, I put everything else together myself.[/edit]

 

1. Assemble battery holders.
This is a relatively simple task. The holders consist of 76 plastic pieces with 'tongue and groove' connector fittings. The 'groove' slots are not cut all the way from top to bottom; there is a small bit of the plastic at the bottom that was not cut through. Therefore, the 'tongue' fittings will not slide all the way through the 'grooves'. This means that once the modules are assembled, they can be disconnected in only one direction at each joint.

Each segment has 19 pieces connected together. Two batteries will be inserted in each hole on a connector. Once the batteries are all inserted, a second segment is placed (properly oriented!) on top of the batteries to make a single unit.

 

2. insert batteries and put top set of holders on to create the basic battery module​

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Take one of the battery holder segments and coat the inside of each hole with a lubricant. I used WD40 wiped on with a cloth, but Robb told me later that he puts some dishsoap and water in a spray bottle.​

Insert two batteries in each cell holder...make sure they are opposite polarity from each neighbor-left/right/up/down.​

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Lubricate and position another battery holder segment on top of the cells just assembled. Be absolutely sure to position the tongue and groove fittings opposite to the lower section. i.e. left end of bottom section starts with tongue fittings...upper section starts with groove fittings. Gently tap the upper segment onto the lower battery segment.​

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3. assemble the BMS pieces.
This part involves the most intricate work for the whole pack. It's not difficult physically, but it's a lot of detail work and if you don't have the right tools (i.e. a good quality crimper) adds the extra time of soldering wires to the terminal rings.

The goal - 76 of these (38 with long leads, 38 with short leads):


o phase 1: cut wire leads to size and strip. You need to cut 38 red and 38 black 'long' leads: 4" long each. Strip about 3/8" from each end. Do it all over again for the short leads: 2.5" long each. Wire to use is 22 gauge hookup wire...a spool of black and a spool of red.


o phase 2: crimp to terminal rings. If you have a good crimper and the rings have a good connection, that's all for this phase. If not, then you should solder the leads to the terminal rings...lots of work! As I finished each, I put them in 'Dixie' cups to keep them separate.


o phase 3: solder leads to BMS cell boards. Be careful to solder red leads to + end of each board. See 'goal' pic for example. When you're done you've got 38 cells with 'long' leads and 38 cells with 'short' leads something like this mess:

 

4a. mount BMS on battery modules.
There are two parts to this:

• glue BMS cells to substrate, then glue substrates to battery banks
• connect BMS cell ring terminals and bus bars to battery terminals

The goals:


Steps:

1. Position the BMS cells on the fiberglass substrate beginning right to left. Start with short lead cell matching lead color to battery cell on top.
2. The cells must alternate color: red/black as you move left. Note the length of each lead: start with short, then alternate two long, followed by two short.
3. Once all cells are positioned on the two substrate boards and lead length and polarity (color) are verified, apply a dab of silicone sealant on the bottom of each cell end. Silicone sealant is used because it's flexible (think vibration!!) and can be removed easily if a cell goes bad and needs to be replaced.

After the cells are glued to the substrate, glue the substrates to the battery banks. Apply a couple dabs of silicone sealant to top edge of each battery and place the substrate boards on the batteries. Be careful to position them as close to the center from the battery ends as possible. Being sloppy means some leads may not reach the battery terminals! Be sure the polarity of the terminal leads matches the direction you glue the substrates down!.

It's a good idea to wait overnight for the silicone sealant to set-up. If you're in a hurry to move to the next step, then apply a strip of masking tape over each edge of the substrate to hold them in position.


Attaching terminal rings and bus bars will be covered in next post.

 

4b. mount BMS on battery modules.
During this process, the batteries will start to be connected together. That means high-voltage danger will come into play as you get near the completion of each battery bank. Each bank contains 38 cells at anywhere up to 3.5v apiece. That means as you get near the end you're dealing with as much as 38 * 3.5v = 133v. NOT something to be careless about.

The goals:

Additional supplies: 2 tubes of Loctite (or other brand) Thread Lock. I used slightly less than 1 1/2 tubes, which means I probably didn't use enough.


Steps:
1. Attach terminal leads and vertical bus bars to battery bank.

Gently bend the terminal leads on one side of the bank so they are straight up and out of the way. Tilt the bank so it stands on the cell holders on the side you bent the leads up. Starting on the left side, remove both screws on the two battery cells.​

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Squirt a small amount of Thread Lock into each screw hole while rotating the nozzle around the edge of the screw hole. Put a small amount of Thread lock on the threads of a screw. Insert the screw and washers through a terminal ring, one end of a bus bar, and into the screw hole. Tighten gently but firmly. Make sure you match polarity of each lead with each battery terminal. If the cell boards were glued down properly the short lead will just reach to the upper battery terminal and the long lead will just reach the lower battery terminal. The lower screw is done the same way. Repeat until all vertical leads and bus bars are installed.​

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2. Attach terminal leads and horizontal bus bars to battery bank.

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Flip the battery bank over to get access to the other side.​

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For far left upper terminal (looking at bank with cell boards away from you), at this time only screw the terminal ring into the battery terminal. Do not use any Thread Lock at this point. When the screw is in place, the BMS cell will have two green LEDs light up indicating it is working. (Yay!!!)​

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From this point on battery cells are being connected in series and voltage increases by 3.0 to 3.5v as each cell is connected. Adjacent cells are covered with masking or duct tape so terminal leads do not accidentally make contact. Bus bars are staggered beginning with far lower left and continuing upper/lower sets to the far right. Work with pairs of short or long leads (opposite polarity for each bus bar). Note: halfway through this side, the fusible link needs to be installed instead of a bus bar. Robb's instructions say to break off two of the support posts on the cell holders to make room for the bend in the link. I chose to just bend it the other way...​

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Far right lower battery terminal is treated same as far upper left terminal above...no Thread Lock at this time. Note this pic is oriented opposite to description above.​

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5. solder jumper wires from each BMS cell to neighbor cells; validate connectivity​

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Rather simple, but tedious task.​

The goal (between arrows)

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Steps:
Cut and strip 37 red jumper wires. I've lost track of the needed length, but they should look and be placed as follows:

Carefully solder them in place from one cell to the adjacent cell. Each cell except for the far left and the far right has an input and an output lead from/to the adjacent cell.

Every so often, stop and check connectivity using an ohm meter. Start with ohn meter lead in the empty hole on the far left cell measuring to the end of the last soldered wire. If done after every 3 or 4 cells are soldered it will cut down on troubleshooting a bad cell. Note: just because the green LEDs are lit does NOT mean the BMS cell is working properly. Only if the LEDs are lit and there is connectivity between the in/out pins is a cell working properly.

While I was checking connectivity on my system, I discovered I did indeed have a bad BMS cell. It was necessary to unsolder the jumper leads as well as the +/- leads to the ring terminals. Then pop the BMS cell off the substrate (good thing I used the silicone sealant to glue it down!). Since Robb had the foresight to send me an extra cell, it was easy to glue it in, solder the terminal leads on; then resolder the jumper leads.

 

These are built for, and patent (pending) by PlugInSupply. They are probably 75% of the reason I went with them instead of someone else, or building my own system from scratch.

After struggling with my 2kwh Enginer kit for several years I wanted something more plug-n-play and trouble free. Don't get me wrong...I knew I was getting a Beta Product from Enginer, so I'm not sore or putting them down. I got what I expected and paid for, from them. This time, I just wanted a kit that wouldn't require as much ongoing user intervention.

 

6. add connecting leads between end BMS cells of each battery module​

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7. connect HV connectors to +/- terminal posts of each battery module​

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These are two separate steps, but short and in the same area of the pack.​

The goal:​

Additional supplies:​

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Steps:​

1. Cut and strip two red wires long enough to go from the in/out holes in each of the end BMS cells on each pack, to the red battery terminal on the side with the horizontal bus bars that is NOT connected to a bus bar, and from there another 4" longer than the red HV connector. See 'goal' pic above. Now because could have been inserted with red as upper left, or red as lower left, the user must do his own measurements.
2. Do the same as above, but using black wires, the black battery terminal, and the black HV connector.
3. Solder one red wire per bank in the appropriate hole in the BMS cell. Do the same with the black wires.
4. Crimp the male spade connectors to the red leads, and the female connectors to the black leads.
5. Unscrew the screw on one of the red battery terminals mentioned above. Remember that these are the four battery terminals (2 red, two black) that did not get the Thread Lock treatment earlier.
6. Squirt Thread Lock into the screw hole and on the screw. Insert the screw through the red ring connector, through the red HV connector and into the screw hole...tighten gently but firmly.
7. Repeat 5 and 6 using the black battery terminal and HV connector on the OTHER battery bank. Do NOT connect the red and black HV connectors to the same bank!
8. Repeat above using one of the green HV connectors to the last red battery terminal. Do similar with the second green HV connector to black battery terminal. When complete, one bank will have red HV connector on red battery terminal and green HV connector on opposite side. The other bank will have black HV connector on black terminal and green HV connector on opposite side:

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Secure each lead near the battery terminal with a tie.

 

8. put battery modules into battery trays and seal
The battery trays are pieces of hard black plastic with 3 sides. two end pieces are glued on after everything is in place and sealed.


The goal:


Steps:
1. Lay each battery bank in a tray with BMS cells up, then put silicone sealant on each support post on both sides. Be sure the battery bank is positioned side to side properly...not too close to one end or the other.

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2. Put second tray over top of bottom tray to form a square tube containing the battery bank. Rotate 90 degrees and put silicone sealant under the edge of the top side. Rotate 180 degrees and put silicone sealant under that edge. Make sure trays are pushed together as much as possible, then put masking tape on the edge to hold in place while silicone sealant sets.
3. The end pieces need to have a notch cut out so the HV cables and BMS cell circuit leads can get out. Unfortunately, they are not the same location for each one. Measure off where each cable comes out and cut the notches to fit (4 of them). Note there is a textured side and a smooth side. Sample of two ends cut:

4. Apply silicone sealant to edge of battery holder and fit each end piece in place. Make sure they are firmly in place and secure with masking tape.

Allow to cure overnight.

 

9. install front controller.
This can be a fairly simple job, or a tough one...depending. Depends on whether the car has an existing EV button mod or not. If it has an existing EV mod, you merely splice the red line from the front controller to the hot EV line and hook the black line to ground (skip step 2). It gets more difficult otherwise.
The goal:


Steps:
1. Remove lower glove box.

Open the lower glove box. On both sides there are plastic nubs that stop the glove box from falling out. Push in on each side of the glove box gently to allow them past their stop points. At this time, the glove box is held up by a small black plastic piston slipped over a plastic rod on the glove box. Gently pull the shaft of the piston off the rod on the glove box. CAUTION: at this point the glove box is held up only by the hinge tabs. If you let go of the glove box, its contents will dump on the passenger side carpet. Gently pull the glove box toward the passenger seat and disengage the hinge tabs. Put the glove box somewhere out of the way. The fourth pic shows the rats nest of wires hiding the EV plug location.​

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2. Install EV line

The PlugInSupply instuctions to install the EV line are here. They show a grey lead instead of a Red/Black lead and refer to a harvested pin. PIS supplies a pin with the kit now, so no need to go harvest one. This step is the most difficult and time consuming part of this phase.​

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3. Route EV line to front controller

Feed the EV lead and connector down past the 12v power socket, then tuck it under the front console panel.​

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4. Plug in cables into front controller.

EV line goes into far left connector. Ethernet line goes into left/middle connector. OBD-II line goes into right connector. Note: I have a red ethernet cable that connects to my ScangaugeII which has a passthru link to the OBD-II connector.​

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10. install bumper plug
This can be a straight forward job, or not. I chose to install my plug on the right side of the bumper because it was closest to the outlet I wanted to use. PIS and many others show installing on the left side. The PlugIn Supply bumper plug install is here. Installing bumper plug on the right bypasses the need to remove the plastic shield on the left side for access to the bumper.

The Goal:
or

Steps:
1. Remove carpet, cargo tray cover, cargo tray. and tire tool holder.
2. Cut off the end of the 3 outlet extension cord supplied by PIS.
3. push the end of the cord through the grommet on the back of the tire well. It should fit beside the existing wire. Second pic shows cord coming out under car.

4. Drill hole in bumper with 1 7/8" cutter.
5. Run end of cord to and through 1) metal retaining ring, 2) rear rubber seal of bumper plug unit, 3) hole in bumper. Do it in THAT sequence!
6. Separate, strip and tin the three leads with solder
7. insert each lead in the bumper plug and tighten screws. Screws are color coded.
8. slide rubber seal up over back of plug unit

9. insert plug unit in hole in bumper. position the cover flap so it opens UP
10. reach under bumper and slide retaining ring up over rubber seal and screw onto plug unit as tightly as possible with fingers. A screw driver or small metal bar can be used to fully tighten if desired. I've found it to be unnecessary and a hassle if you need to remove/replace plug unit.
11. put screws into three holes in the plug unit and screw into bumper. These screws will prevent the retaining ring from working itself loose in addition to securing the plug unit to the bumper.