HOW TO DIY: JDM Folding Mirrors with Signals

UPDATE 1/19/2013 SEE THE END OF THE POST!!!!!!! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT




First of I want to thank GoldPaniogarden for his help in sourcing the mirrors.

In this thread I will explain what I did to convert my 2012 Toyota Prius US mirrors to the JDM Folding mirrors. I will also describe my method for hooking up the signal mirrors. Here is what I received:






I also ordered the following parts from my Toyota Dealer:

1 of part # 90980-11657 (housing connector)
9 of part # 82998-12420 (Terminal repair)

I got this as well:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEI-106206/

I also used non-insulated butt connectors & heat shrink tubing.

I can’t for get my 2 favorite tools, 1 of which is needed for adding the Casper connectors:



The Japan Toyota Wish mirrors are identical to the Prius mirrors with the exception that the mounting base is different. In Order to get the JDM mirrors to work on the US Prius, a few things need to be done.

1) The mirrors need to get disassembled & the folding motor swapped to the US mirror.
2) The US mirror switch connector needs to be replaced/bypassed

Step 1. Disassembly (This will need to be done 4 times)

Remove the US mirrors from the car. To do this, there are 2 Philip head screws that need to be removed.

Screws are where the arrows are


Once these screws are removed, there is a groove in the bottom of the door panel that I used to hold onto while I pulled the panel away from the door. Then you need to lift the door panel up & away from the door. Release the cables for the door handle & lock, then the connectors for the light & window switches. Next there are 2 black plastic covers that need to be removed. 1 has a 10mm/Philip head bolt & the other is opposite of the mirror which just pulls off & exposes the 3 10mm bolts that hold the mirror in place. Unplug the harness for the mirror & remove the 3 bolts.

Here is a side by side showing the JDM vs. US mirror:

JDM on Left, US on Right




Remove the mirror glass. The bottom of the glass clips in while the top sits in 2 slots. I stuck my fingers under the bottom of the glass & gently pulling up until the clips released. Then it was a matter of lifting the glass out (WARNING: If you have heated glass, disconnect the 2 black wires from the glass & be careful). Once the glass is out, remove the 3 philip screws holding in the adjusting motors. On the back of the adjustor are 2 clips for the power. I used a flat head screwdriver to lift them up & disconnected them. Now the inside of ur mirror should look like this:



Next we need to remove the mounting base cover & rubber seal. The seal just pulls off. The mounting base has a removable cover. Locate the tabs to release & remove the cover.

Now the power connector is a 2 piece connector. It has a outer sleeve that needs to be removed. There are 2 lil tabs that need to be pulled away so that the inner housing can be pulled out of the sleeve:





To remove the mounting base, these 3 screws need to be taken out:



Now pull the wiring harness from the inside of the mirror out. Next remove the 2 philip screws that hold the US hinge in place:





Remove the back color matched cover from the mirror by releasing the several tabs that hold it in place. Now ur mirror should look like this:



Follow these steps 3 more time. Once more for the other US mirror & twice for the JDM mirror.

This is a side by side of the US hinge vs. the JDM folding motor:




Reassemble of the US mirrors is the reverse of disassemble except that you will be replacing the US hinge with the JDM folding motor. I also took the power wire for the folding motor & put it in the US mirror:



I also added the Signal mirror covers & the 3 way lights. Here is what they look like put back together:





Reinstall the mirrors on the car.



Step 2: Door Wiring & Signal Lights

This step is optional. You can use the supplied black connectors that come with both the mirror & signal lights or you can do what I choose to do.

There are now 7 extra wires on each mirror that will need to be routed to under the dash. I choose to buy the Metripack Wiring Connector instead of using the supplied black connectors. I went this route cause I didn’t like how cheap they felt.

I cut all 7 wires on each mirror to the same length. I then crimped on the terminals & inserted them into the new connector









Next I got the supplied wires that came with the mirrors & signals & did the same. In this step I had the green wire from the folding motor go the the red wire & the blue wire from the folding mirror go to the black wire (look at the pic where my connectors are joined)





Remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold track for the wire & remove the electrical tape



Pull the boot out of the door jam



Feed the wires through the rubber boot & inside the car



Once that is done, secure the wires down, replace the electrical tape & reinstall the 10mm bolts. Don’t forget to reset the boot onto the door jam



The signal lights need to be wired up next.

On the passenger side there will be a junction box where the door wires connect into. Locate the big connector with the black tab on it. Locate the green wire that is on the left row 2nd from the top. This is the turn signal wire. The brown wire just below the red wire is for the parking lights. This is where I made my taps. While ur under there, look for the ground location…..this is where I connected my ground. This takes care of the turn & pilot lights for the passenger side.



With the 4 remaining wires, route the to the driver side



On the driver side there will also be a junction box where the door wires connect into. Again, locate the big connector with the black clip on it. Locate the yellow wire that is on the right row in the 2nd set of wires. It’s the 6th one down. This is for the turn signal. The brown wire next to it is for the parking lights. This is where I made my taps. The ground wire was connected to a self taping screw that the dealer put in when they hooked up their alarm.



With the 4 remaining wire are routed up to where the passenger side wires are & the mirror switch is




Puddle lights

I choose to get my switched ground for the courtesy lights from the blue wire in the “A” pillar. I ran my black wire down the “A” pillar to under the dash. This wire was connected to the black wire for the puddle lights. The red wire was tapped to a constant + power. I found my constant from a red wire on the ECU. The dealer had also used this same wire for their alarm. This was a lot easier than looking for the infamous blue wire on the ECU.


Step 3: Folding Mirror Motors

When I first got the Toyota Wish mirrors with the controller & harness, I went out to my car with the controller, harness & new switch. I went to make sure everything was PNP but to my surprise……it wasn’t. The controller harness plugged into the new switch with no problem but the end that was suppose to plug into the cars harness was different. So I made a trip out to my dealer for some info. I found out that the 2004 Toyota Sequioa with the Luxury package has factory folding mirrors & that the switch that comes with the Toyota Wish mirrors is the same. So I got the wiring diagrams for both my 2012 Prius & the 04 Sequioa along with the correct connector (p/n 90980-11657) & 9 of the corresponding terminals (p/n 82998-12420).

2012 Prius Mirror Wiring Diagram:


2004 Sequioa Mirror Wiring Diagram:


New Connector & Terminals:


What I did was cut off the connector for the mirror switch on my Prius & connected 7 of the new terminals to the wires that went to pins 2-8. On the Prius connector, pin 1 & pin 10 are not needed & pin 9 was empty.

Starting from pin 1 on the Prius harness:

Pin 1 on Prius harness – not used
Pin 2 on Prius harness – goes to pin 2 on the new connector
Pin 3 on Prius harness - goes to pin 3 on the new connector
Pin 4 on Prius harness - goes to pin 4 on the new connector
Pin 5 on Prius harness - goes to pin 5 on the new connector
Pin 6 on Prius harness - goes to pin 6 on the new connector
Pin 7 on Prius harness - goes to pin 7 on the new connector
Pin 8 on Prius harness - goes to pin 8 on the new connector
Pin 9 on Prius harness – Empty
Pin 10 on Prius harness – not used

Pin 9 on the new connector goes to the black wire for the folding mirror motor
Pin 10 on the new connector goes to the red wire for the folding mirror motor







There is a red & white wire that still needs to be connected.

The red wire I connected to the constant + red wire coming from the ECU (same wire I used for the + wire on the puddle lights)

The white wire I connected to the + door lock. In the junction box on the driver side foot rest, look for the connector that goes to the door….there are 2. Go to the 2nd connector & look for the biggest white wire with red paint on it. This is the wire you need. (in the pic the door connector isn’t in the junction box but u can get the idea)


Constant + Red wire on ECU




Put the new switch in the dash





Now that you have torn ur Prius apart & back together again, give ur handy work a try…….if you followed what I did, you should have this:

Today (1/19/2013) I installed a set of folding mirrors on Bino's 2010 Prius. It seems that Toyota changed the mirror plug in 2012 when they introduced the lighted switch. The controller harness plugged right into the 2010 mirror connector.....no modding needed. This is great for the 2010-2011 gen3 owners.

 

Thx guys......it was more work with the electrical than I had expected but the end result is just awesome

 

The folding mirrors were close to $500. The signals lights & covers were from the ebay seller "metaccessories1" cost $155. The parts from my dealer were $70

 

Do it do it

 

That's 1 of the reasons why I did this mod.......that & motorcycles of the freeway..........oh & the cool factor

 

Thx for all the complements.

I think I'm gonna wanna do the auto tilt in reverse mod.

 

Thx......if u were able to wire up a pair if signal mirror then u can do this mod too.......it looks a lot more intimidating than what it really is.