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Accelerating from a red light

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Fuel Economy' started by markabele, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Personally, I think 'brisk' is a pretty useless term. (I actually had it described to me as between a crawl and flooring it.)

    If you watch the recent video from Wayne, it will show him advising, keeping it in EV mode below 16 mph, and then admonishing the driver to accelerate to the 3/4 point, IIRC, on the HSI.

    People who want to think of hypermiling as slow will quote the first part, while those who want hypermiling approval for fast acceleration will use the brisk part. Wayne actually has NUMBERS for both of those behaviors.
     
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  2. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    i think you've summed it up nicely...... this seems to be the way to go

    up to now i was not doing the ev mode to 16mph...now i am ..i will see if improvement


    by the way what is IIRC??
     
  3. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    "If I Recall Correctly"
     
  4. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    doooo as bart would say
     
  5. MJFrog

    MJFrog Active Member

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    No, it's doh! As Homer would say...
     
  6. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    oh yea i don't really watch it anyway...

    i watch my hsi more
     
  7. briank101

    briank101 Member

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    I guess I would like 2 optimized acceleration scenarios in the 10 to 60 mph range where there are several red light junctions as part of the trip, that can be described visually in term of the HSI indicator. I feel keeping the indicator at a fixed location in the HSI from 15 to 60 mph is more like a simple/slow rule of thumb as opposed to achieving the most useful/economic in typical red light to green situations. I welcome refinements.
    Scenario 1: Compromise Rapid/MPG weighted acceleration in rush hour traffic (within ~10% of optimum BSFC)
    10 to 20 mph: right side of the PWR band
    20 to 25 mph: middle of PWR band
    25 to 30 mph: left side of PWR band
    30 to 35 mph: right edge of ICE ECO band
    35 to 45 mph: right edge of ICE ECO band
    45 to 60 mph: between left and right quadrants of ICE ECO band as necessary

    Scenario 2: Within ~5% of Absolute optimum BSFC acceleration in light/no traffic
    10 to 20 mph: right edge of ICE ECO band
    20 to 30 mph: 3rd quadrant of ICE ECO band
    30 to 60 mph: between left and right quadrants of ICE ECO band as necessary

    I feel trying to calculate iMPG =iMPH/2 could be distracting/dangerous and something like above would be much easier for more drivers to follow.

    I wonder what the BSFC is from the left to the right of the PWR band when the car is at 20, 30, 40, and 50 mph. Or is it completely independent of speed due to CVT?
     
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  8. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    i like your theory....
    the middle 50% to left/50% right seems to be in the most inefficieent area...and obviously to long in the pwr area would be to
    and thats what scanguage indicates to
     
  9. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    That's the sort of term you get when there are no useful metrics. The "brisk" term comes from the Gen II, where we don't have the power indicator. I've always described it as relatively fast acceleration, but short of WOT.

    Tom
     
  10. Insight-I Owner

    Insight-I Owner 2006 Insight-I MT + 2011 Prius

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    What about using the "LOD" gauge on the Scangauge? This is what people do in other cars, but maybe it isn't a good metric for the Prius??
     
  11. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I don't know about your Prius, but when I bought mine a Scangauge wasn't included. If we want to talk about adding equipment, then the skies the limit when it comes to metrics.

    Tom
     
  12. Insight-I Owner

    Insight-I Owner 2006 Insight-I MT + 2011 Prius

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    No need to be snarky. I was just asking if the LOD gauge was useful or not.
     
  13. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    when using lod......best eficiency is at about 85% when ice is running..that's my understanding
     
  14. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Fair enough. I interpreted your comment as questioning why Gen II owners don't use the LOD gauge, which of course isn't standard.

    As for your real question, certainly LOD is a useful metric. Atkinson cycle engines are most efficient at fairly heavy LOD levels, generally around 90%.

    Keep in mind, of course, that ICE efficiency is only one factor in overall efficiency.

    Tom
     
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  15. markabele

    markabele owner of PiP, then Leaf, then Model 3

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    ^^^ what does LOD stand for?
     
  16. markabele

    markabele owner of PiP, then Leaf, then Model 3

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    Can anyone confirm that the above mentioned RPM range is also ideal for GEN III?
     
  17. Insight-I Owner

    Insight-I Owner 2006 Insight-I MT + 2011 Prius

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    It's an abbreviation for LOAD, which I think means load on the ICE not the total load ICE+MG load???
     
  18. Insight-I Owner

    Insight-I Owner 2006 Insight-I MT + 2011 Prius

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    Thanks Tom. I DO find the SG VERY useful for my Prius. HSD is a complex system and it helps me figure out what is going on. I wish the HSI display included something that showed me whether the ICE is on or off (it's SO quiet when it's on) and gave me a number rather than a bar graph for the iMPG.
     
  19. walter Lee

    walter Lee Hypermiling Padawan

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    From a dead stop at a red traffic light

    I. Traffic/distance you can travel before stopping is very important

    if the Prius must stop ( because of traffic, stopsign, pedestrian, furry creature crossing the road) soon after starting from a green light then the maximum speed the Prius accelerates is the most significant factor in fuel efficiency. The Prius max speed must be no faster than the top speed needed for the Prius to slowdown to 10 mph while coasting (no braking, no regen braking) to the stopping location. For example, the most fuel efficient way to move a short distance on a Prius is to push the accelerator past the HSI mid point and engage the gas engine to a target speed then let go of the accelerator so the gasoline engine is turned off and the electric motors are barely if not running ( and no regenerating electricity) . The Prius is allowed to glide until it reaches about 10mph to 5 mph - at which point the driver applies the hydraulic brakes and does a full stop. As long as the target speed is under 40 mph - loss from wind resistance/aerodynamic drag should be mimimal.



    II. The terrain is very important

    1) if the Prius will go uphill within the first 20 feet
    then set the Prius to PWR mode,
    accelerate up to 7 mph using electric then switch to gas
    push the accelerator pass the 3/4 point of the HSI ECO bar but not yet to the PWR bar
    hold this position until the target speed is acquired - (PWR bar levels maybe required if going
    up a mountain road)
    scangaugeII only: iMPG =MPH or (> 1.20Gph, 1088-1800RPM)

    2) if the Prius will drive flat road
    then set the Prius to Normal mode
    accelerate up to 15 mph using electric then switch to gas
    push the accelerator between 3/8- 5/8 point of the HSI ECO bar until target speed is acquired
    scangaugeII only: iMPG =2/3 *MPH or (.7-1.1Gph, 1088-1344RPM)
    under 40 mph do a pulse & glide
    from 40-55mph do a super highway mode
    slowly release the accelerator 1/10- 2/3 point of the HSI ECO bar until target speed is acquired

    3) if the Prius will go downhill within the first 20 feet
    then set the Prius to ECO mode
    accelerate up to 25 mph using electric then switch to gas
    push the accelerator between 1/2- 5/8 point of the HSI ECO bar until target speed is acquired

    a. small downhill grade - with no uphill grade in sight
    under 38 mph - foot off brake once target speed acquire, recharge batteries
    under 45 mph - switch to Pulse & glide
    over 45mph - switch to superhighway mode

    b.medium or steep downhill grade - with no uphill grade in sight
    glide - foot off the brakes,
    if over target speed use regen brakes to recharge batteries
    when SOC =8 bars(>77%soc) switch transmission from D to B

    c. medium or steep downhill grade with uphill grade coming up
    glide - foot off the brakes,
    if over target speed use regen brakes to recharge batteries
    when SOC =8 bars(>77%soc) switch transmission from D to B
    at last part/section of downhill accelerate 10 mph to 15 mph over target speed for
    top of the upcoming uphill grade before geting to the foot of the uphill climb - driving with load
     
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  20. markabele

    markabele owner of PiP, then Leaf, then Model 3

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    I started this post off as someone who didn't want to see numbers because I didn't have a SGII, but now I have the Torque app. So please illustrate this with numbers (RPM) if you desire.