Let's get the fogs to go on and off with lo beams please!

Ok..Got the fog lights installed and working but of course as mentioned before they stay on when the high beams are ON! Here in Pa. that's not legal.

So the question is, that brown wire on the ECU under the dash, is THAT what is giving the lights the voltage to stay on all the time?

When I operate the stalk to turn the headlights off and on I hear a relay clicking under the dash somewhere. It would seem to me that if the connection was made to the low beam side of that relay the fogs would go off and on with the LOW beams only. But does the red wire, in the cab be the one to hook to the low beam side of that relay? I'd think it almost has to be.

But again to be sure, is that red / brown wire jumper telling the push button that is OK to be on? There has to be a better more legal way to hook these up. Wish the fuse panel was under the dash like an Audi or Porsche or many others but it isn't.

Thanks in advance!

Search may be my friend but he came up empty on this one

 

Ok spidey... how is it listed so I can search for it? Or isn't it listed here?

I can't imagine why it can't be accomplished using the wiring already in the car. I need more time time to create a more simple solution. If I could be sure that the red/brown wire jumper is what's giving us the voltage to make them on all the time then it simply needs to be tapped into the low beam side of the headlight relay or one of the low beam feed wires. Again more time.....

Tnx

 

Hi spiderman,

Yes I verified with my DVMm that the brown wire gets voltage when the light switch is on. I can see why some say nothing works and it comes back to the piggyback connector not making contact,.

I found your thread yesterday but didn't have time to post back to you. Although it hasn't been tested, it appears that it should work with the relays playing ping-pong with each other. I was hoping for a more simple solution, like tapping into the low beams to get main power to the fog light relay. But of course that won't solve anything since the lows stay on when you activate the highs. Like Occam's Razor your solution seems to be the correct one. I'd use a Fluke meter to see what current those fogs are drawing so I can size the relays accordingly. I would of course use the switch that fits in the dash panel to make it look 'factory' . Too bad no one else knows of a wire that gets hot only when the low's are on and then switches OFF. That would be ideal!

What is that ECU for under the dash anyway?

Thanks!

 

Check for a PM