5w20 or 0w20 weight oil in their classic?

I recommend a scan guage II. I love the features and tells more than RPM's.

 

Welcome aboard TC.
Well you do have a classic Gen-1.
So my experience is Gen-II which is similar.
Lots of people using synthetic such as Mobil-1 and other brands.
The Gen-2 (and 1?) has 5W-30 as the standard. Gen-3 has the 0 or 5W-20.
So you might want to hop over to Gen-3 to get comments on the 20 weights.
Some people over there say the Toyota synthetic is really good.
I go with Mobil-1 and I use the 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy version in winter.
I think it helps 1-2 MPG.
In Canada winter the 0W-20 may be recommended...not sure, check your manual.
In summer I go with 5W-30 figuring the ambient heat gives lower viscosity.
Just made the switch to 5W-30 Extended Drain Interval. Then I will go back to 0w-30 in winter.

 

For my Gen 1,I use 5w-40 shell helix ultra synthetic.I get around 5.0L/100km on average.
With the 45ltr tank I get around 800kms.
I am looking for scangauge II,there's so much info about it in this forum and I guess it's far much better compared to an analogue tachometer.

 

Hi guys,

I know this guy was asking about using synthetic oil in his Prius. I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix, and I was thinking of going synthetic myself. My work has a 2012 Toyota Seinna, and it only uses synthetic oil which I did not know until today (first oil change on our 2 month van), and the oil change was expensive ($107). I found it a ripoff but whatever not my money. Anyways, I am wondering are synthettic oil changes usually that expensive? I am also thinking of either the 2012 Prius V (love the style because it is similar to my Matrix), or getting a 2011 Toyota Seinna 4 cyclinder if I can find one (not many for sale). Before I make a final decision, how often do you guys have to change your batteries because it is a hybrid, and how expensive are those batteries? I really like the Prius V, and I need just a family sized car because of the expensive gas prices keep going up (my wife wants a minivan for long road trips). If you guys ever had a Matrix, what kind of gas mileage did you notice between the Matrix and your Prius?

 

To anyone switching to synthetic in an older vehicle, especially in the lighter weights, be sure to track your oil level. Check it every time you get gas. It is not unheard of for a previously known-good motor to start consuming oil after making the switch. You may notice slightly better fuel economy but also more valve-train noise. Tire choice usually makes a greater impact on fuel economy, for example.

 

It isn't worth the risk running out of gas. Why are you pushing the limit with a flaky gas gauge that won't accurately reflect the last bits of gas in the tank?

Also the RPM for the Gen 1 is pin 25 on E7 connector. http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/tachack/ is the instructions for Gen 2 with a link to the NHW11 picture if you read closely. E7-E10 is the Engine ECU behind the glove box. It might be easier to put a status LED light on pin 9 of E8 which indicates the Fuel Pump is on (pulled low for on, float/12V for off). Use diodes and a high impedance if you connect to the harness.

 

The fuel gauge is based loosely on the level of a bladder that floats on the gas and so you don't want to run out of gas as it isn't accurate.

Open the glove box all the way (push two plastic pegs in) and change the cabin filter while you are in there. You'll see the engine ECU on the right. http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/tachack/NHW11-ECM.gif This is upside down when you look in (keep track of the rectangles in the middle for orientation)

Connector E8 and pin 9 is the fuel pump signal so you could make a status LED. pin 18 and pin 17 are ground on E8. I wouldn't draw too much current on that pin because if you pulled that pin to ground you would be powering the fuel pump. The ECU pulls that signal low which goes to the relay for the pump. Otherwise it is high impedance and floats up to the battery. So you would want a +12V wire that can handle 10mA and put an LED with proper resistor in series with the 12V and otherside on that pin. We are assuming if the ECU can power the relay coil and extra 5mA LED won't hurt it.


On connector E7 pin 25 is the IGF which you can put to a tachometer, but it might require conversion. An OBD-2 scanner or scangauge II would be easier and give you more info.

 

Hi Joe,

Could you be having a circuit diagram for the explanation..."Connector E8 and pin 9 is the fuel pump signal so you could make a status LED. pin 18 and pin 17 are ground on E8. I wouldn't draw too much current on that pin because if you pulled that pin to ground you would be powering the fuel pump. The ECU pulls that signal low which goes to the relay for the pump. Otherwise it is high impedance and floats up to the battery. So you would want a +12V wire that can handle 10mA and put an LED with proper resistor in series with the 12V and otherside on that pin. We are assuming if the ECU can power the relay coil and extra 5mA LED won't hurt it"...?
If you do,kindly post it here...I'd like to try out the status LED.

Regards,
Chaps

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