The Tanabe "Sustec" TUB153F two point front chassis bar fits perfectly on the "v"

After extensive research, I took a chance add purchased the Tanabe "Sustec" TUB153F front chassis two point chassis stiffening bar from Amazon.com on Saturday.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QNYM4M/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

Although it sid that it fit only the 2010 Generation III Prius, I bolted it onto my Prius "v" perfectly.

I have amazon Prime and got it, yesterday. 10-15 minutes for the install, and I'm done.

The M12x1.25 OEM mounting bolts needs a 19mm socket for removal and installation. Using Permatex anti-seize, it requires 55 ft lbs of torque on only two bolts.

I did it on grass and without even jacking up the car.

I'll report on how well it improves the ride in a few days.

 

Andrew, I just drove 50 miles with the Tanabe brace installed. For $98 delivered, it's definitely worth it. It the same 2010 Generation III brace that everyone is installing on their cars. And, it fits perfectly.

Sometime between the introduction of the 2010 Generation III Prius and the "v," Toyota upgraded the rocker to center rail braces from the "L" shape to the much stiffier and stronger "triangular" shaped braces.

Cusco designed an elaborate front passenger brace for $254 for the Grneration III to replace the "L" bracketswith a stronger bracing system. I contacted Paul Goldman at Juicedhybrid.com, and he confirmed that the same bracing system fit the Prius 'v."

When I discovered that the 'v' has the upgraded "triangular" OEM braces, I decided to cancel the order and order the easy to install Tanabe.

As it worked out, it worked out great. And, at $98 delivered, I made out like a bandit.

From what I see, I could have made my own out of heavier solid aluminum for about a pound heavier, but there is no need as the Tanabe worked out great.

If I had the Gen III with the "L" brackets, I might have waited for the Cusco brace. Otherwise, I could have ordered the "triangular" brackets from Toyota of about $100 a pair and still use used the Tanabe brace.

Mike

 

They have it wrong. The TUB153F is a "front" bar.

 

I had mine delivered to my friends house, when I was on vacation. While I have ramps at home, my friend had some really old steel ramps, and I didn't want to risk damaging the bumper.

Because I knew exactly where the bar fits, I reached each bolt on the brace right behind the from wheel and removed the bolt on each side. Then, I treaded each bolt through the mounting hole on each side and hand started them.

Since I didn't have any of my expensive Snap-On torque wrenches, I had a coupon from Harbor Freignt for a click type torque wrench for about $10. My friend had anit-seize lubricant, so I tightened each bolt to 55 ft lbs. (70 w/o lubricant; 65 w/ Loctite)

My friend was happy, when I made the Harbor Freight torque wrench a gift to him.

For those, who still don't see lt, I've attached a photo. It's the bolts at the two points of the two "triangles" on the rails on each side of the connection of the two larger parts of the exhaust system.

Hope this helps.

I did the whole operation in 10 minutes on the grass in his yard.

 

For those who are interested, while I found the Tanabe a great improvement over not having a brace to "tie in" this section of the inverted "U" exhaust tunnel, I found that it could be improved upon, without the extreme pursuit of "lightening" by sacrificing the long term longevity of the bar.

To my surprise, I developed a more "solid," stronger, and stiffer bar with just a slight 3 ounce weight penalty over the weight of the Tanabe. The Tanabe weighs 1lb2oz. Mine weighs a little under 1lb 6oz.

The Tabnabe is made from tubing with a wall thickness of 1/16 inch, most likely 6061 T6 aluminum. The T6 heat and age temper, however, is weakened in that it hase been "melted" and allowed to cool in the anealed state, after welding.

I stated the same 6061-T651 that Tanabe probably uses, since that is the strongest structual aluminum that can be welded. Mine, however, uses it in at least 1/4 inch (later 3/8 plus) thickness rather than the 1/16 that Tanabe uses.

The Tanabe is mounted to the chassis with the original cap screws with washers that have an outer diameter of 1 inch approximate. This one inch diameter mounting circle marked by the bottom outer corner of the washer creates a "knife edge like" stress point that "digs" into the 1/16 inch thick aluminum each time that the bar is flexed.

At the dawn of the "jet age" of passenger liners, British Airways introduced the De Havilland "Comet," the world's first jet powered passenger liner.

At the dawn of the "jet age," designers failed to fully understand the effect of repeated low level stress on aluminum alloys, especially at "sharp corners." the Comet had small radius nearly square corner windows. Comets mysteriously crashed after a short period into their design lives. Unlike steel, aluminum does not have to be stressed to it's "ultimate yield" point to fail. Repeated low level stress over time will cause aluminum to fail as metal fatigue unexpectedly.

The massive thickness of my design means that all of the parts lead a long "unstressed" life.

The Tanabe is designed as a welded unit based on one factor. Welding the light and thin aluminum causes distortion as the assembly cools. That's the reason for the large loose fitting mounting holes. Loose fitting mounting holes mean that the bar remains in position only because of the tension on the bolts and the friction between their heads, the bolts and the chasssis.

In designing mine, the distance between the chassis rail bolt holes is precisely measured with special "pointed center" transfer screws and the distance between their centers precisely measured with a two foot long vernier caliper.

All of the holes are so precise and "reamed" that they are only 2-3 thousandths of an ince larger than the diameter of the bolt. The holes are so precisely close that overspray from painting had to be reamed out for the bolts to be inserted.

I have includes pictures that compare the mounting holes of the Tanabe to my design. Other design factors were considered but will not be discussed, here, since this post is long enough, already.

Rude person's

 

Yep!

the M12 bolts for the front brace should be torqued to 55ft lb, and the M10 bolts for the rear brace should be torqued to 33 ft lb. You need a 19mm socket for the M12 bolts and a 14mm socket for the OEM rear brace bolts.

 

Super NICE!

Your install looks better than mine. I'm glad that it went so well.


Rude person's