Technically, if you add an outlet, you need a permit. I figure I am going to tap into the main sub-panel, I want the city inspector to come out to see whether I did it correctly. I don't have any electrician friends so I don't have anyone else to check my wiring.
I had the Leviton installed on 12/29 - they were very accommodating since it was a rush to get it installed before the tax credit ended. No extra charges or fees and no bs about permits or extra line or anything. I did pay $200 extra to have them install the equipment for a dedicated electric meter, but I expected that. One nice thing about the Leviton is that if we move we can take it with us - it is fully detachable and transportable. Since I hope to always have some sort of plug-in vehicle from now on, this was a distinct advantage. So I think the experiences people had are unique to each electrical contractor and each geographical area. I had a fine experience and I don't like to take chances with stuff like this.
This sounds all too familiar. I managed to get my $100 back from Leviton by raising a big enough stink with them about the over inflated costs for the permitting that the contractor was trying to stiff me for. One thing you could do is contact your credit card company and dispute the charge. I would also suggest you contact the Toyota Customer Experience number and complain about the misleading pricing that Leviton is offering, and how the contractors they are using are trying to jack up the prices for the permits in order to make more profit off of these jobs.
I did the work myself, but the law says if you install a new circuit, it has to be done to code and you have to pull a permit.
If the outlet is in a "wet location" then it must be GFCI protected. My outlet is bolted to the side of my house, so I used a GFCI breaker. What's more, if I upgrade to 240V, I can't use an outlet, I have to hardwire the EVSE inside a junction box. I think if I do that, the 240V circuit itself won't require GFCI protection, because my Romex isn't routed through any wet locations except where it terminates. Local codes vary, but my city referred me to the national code and I believe that's what it says. (I'm trying to avoid definitive language -- what anyone should do is list all this on the permit application and have it approved)
If he's a qualified electrician, he can do the work, just get his question answered: 1) Is it 240 V? 2) What amperage is required? 3) What type of plug is on the EVSE? These are very basic questions, easily answered by checking the basic specs of the EVSE. You should be worried if he does NOT ask these questions. All EVSE's aren't the same -- the Leviton is only 16A, others need 50A. Even though the Prius won't pull even 16A, if you install a unit that can deliver 240V, 40A, then you need to run a 40 or 50A circuit, because somebody could someday plug in a Leaf, for example. But if you use a 16A EVSE, for example, and plug in a Leaf, it still won't supply more than 16A. Personally, I wouldn't go with a high amperage EVSE, because they have really fat cables which are cumbersome to deal with. I much prefer the thinner cable of the EVSE that comes with my Prius to the big fat cables at the public charging stations.
I originally scheduled an install, then canceled my order for the Leviton charger, and this is why: Without a charger, I can go from an empty battery to a full one in about 3 hours; with the $1300 charger from Leviton, I could do it in 1-1/2 hours. I couldn't justify the expense, to save an hour and a half that I don't even care about. Since I charge in the middle of the night, it didn't matter to me if it's 90 minutes or 180. During the day I recharge after bringing my son to school, and easily get my car topped-off in 3 hours. I'm curious: what compelled you to spend the money? Why is it worth it to you to spend $1300 to save 90 minutes on your charges? Bob
I've had numerous circuits added to my home office in Tennessee in the last 5 years, and have never required a permit. I use a local electrical company, which installed my backup generator that powers my server room here; they added 4 15-amp circuits, rerouted some of the circuits through the generator's transfer switch, and ran power into the server room. No permit was required.
permitting is a state code, not national. in mass., you need a permit for any electrical work. the homeowner can do anything after the meter but needs permit and inspection just like a licensed electrician. the problem is, not all electricians are the same and sometimes cut corners or do things incorrectly but inspectors assume they know what they are doing and don't always inspect.
I am electrically-challenged, but there has been some discussion on the forum indicating that the L2 charging actually ends up more efficient from a financial standpoint than the L1 charging. When I asked the 'expert' at my electric utility company, they agreed. Not only faster, but less costly as well.
definitely a good reason to look into it. i'm hoping peef will have someting off the shelf in the near future and all i need to provide is the 240v circuit.
PeeF can modify your Toyota supplied EVSE for L2/240V operation for under $250 (it will also work L1/120V with a simple AC adapter cord) He's said he doesn't plan to offer advanced replacement service in the Toyota EVSE, due to low demand. I could loan you my OpenEVSE while your Toyota EVSE is in California being modified...
Well that makes sense then, although I'd have to wonder how long it would take to recoup the $1300 investment in a Leviton charger, as opposed to using a 110v outlet as I'm doing. I'm curious to see what next month's bill will be; I've had my PiP since the 15th...
The installed charger is to top off the battery quickly during weekends and an occasional workday. I live 2-3 miles from civilization, so 6 or more miles of travel get me to and from a destination. The utilitily of electric motoring will expand if the charge turn around decreases. Every PIP owner's situation is unique, it's design met my requirements.
I'm not so sure it is true, but even if it is, there are detractors that say when you charge batteries too quickly, and to a higher state of charge, you cause some loss of battery life. Damned if you do. Damned if you don't. Charging your car faster to then just let it sit there at a high state of charge longer, is definitely not a good thing.
Worrying about how you manage the charge schedule is irrelevant w a 8 year/100000 mile warranty. No one including Toyota knows what will happen to this new style battery in 8 years with adverse environmental influence beyond charge scheduling
Toyota has designed this vehicle to be recharged from 120VAC and 208/240 VAC power outlets. So, what's your argument? Nobody is attempting anything different and beyond the guided lines of the user's manual published by the manufacturer.
Please stop worrying about L2 charging. The 240V is going to the onboard charger, and it simply makes it easier for the charger to do it's job (compared to 120V) and increases the rate it can do it. Even with 240V the Pip battery is being charged at less than 1C , which is below even the most basic charge rate for a LiPO battery. And the voltage the charger is delivering to the battery is the same, just the current is higher. No issue at all. Toyota has such conservative charge, discharge and capacity use parameters, its almost ridiculous. And also why their Prius batteries have stood the test of time and use! They got it figured out. Sheez, Leaf's can be charged with 480V DC direct. 30mi range in 10 min or something like that. Now that is quick charging.
The basic upshot is that a lot of things run more efficiently at 220VAC than at 120VAC. You draw less current for one. Voltage drops over a long run are a lot less with higher voltages. Here's one explanation I gleamed from the web: I'm surprised that the EE's on this board haven't popped up with a better explanation...