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Oil Change 2010 Prius - do it yourself

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Mr. Bill, Aug 22, 2009.

  1. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    I don't have one here to measure but if you ask the parts department they can look it up to match your Prius. Probably all recent Toyotas are the same anyway.
     
  2. dustoff003

    dustoff003 Blizzard Brigade #003

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    Oil drain plug sealing washer part number is 90430-12031.
     
  3. Dark_matter_doesn't

    Dark_matter_doesn't Prius Tinkerer

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    Go back to whomever did your last oil change and have words with them. You need that cover replaced. The Toyota shop manual oil change procedure calls for the whole cover to be removed, so someone forgot to put it back on.
     
  4. doabbs

    doabbs Junior Member

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    Is it ok to drive up on stands since the car will no longer be level?
     
  5. spiderman

    spiderman wretched

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    ^ yes, the drain is located towards the rear of the pan so you will get more out actually.
     
  6. ChuckGVT

    ChuckGVT Junior Member

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  7. firecracker_rc

    firecracker_rc New Member

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    I completed my first Prius oil change today. :) I have 1,643 miles and since I haven't found any hard evidence that Toyota uses break-in additives, I decided to err on the side of caution and change early.

    I've attached pictures of my oil taken with my phone.
    [I use a plastic oil pan container - the used oil in my hand was off the top of the oil pan surface, cleaned prior to use. The used oil in the white dishes came out of the oil container that was empty but likely still dirty from previous 5w30 oil changes (to be fair). I took the second set since I didn't take the pic of the clean oil of the first set in the same lighting.]

    All and all it was a smooth process and enjoyed it. I like the placement of the oil pan and filter on the prius compared to my former Integra where the filter was an arms length high into never never land - no big deal, but with the Prius it is visible and cleaner since the oil cannot run onto other components. I loved looking up into the panel and seeing such clean and perfect new parts (my first new car :D).

    I don't know if it's necessary with an early change, but I reset the oil change indicator scale. And the only "issue" I had was that I could not get the oil plug seal off, even with a tool. It seems to be virtually welded onto the pan...? It doesn't matter this time around; since the change was so early it would still have plenty of life in it, but is it supposed to come off?

    Cheers.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. PriusSport

    PriusSport senior member

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    I've never done an oil change on my 08 Prius. The dealer gives me two free oil changes per year.:rockon:
     
  9. firecracker_rc

    firecracker_rc New Member

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    Maybe you have a good dealer. I wouldn't trust/touch mine with a 10 foot pole. :eek:
    Third gen Prii oil changes are covered free under warranty for the first 25k miles.
     
  10. firecracker_rc

    firecracker_rc New Member

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    That's kind of pricey - almost $7 per filter when you factor in the 6.99 shipping. The dealer only charges 4.99. Maybe the listing changed that you posted.

    I found this one that comes out to $4 per filter (10 pack). I think you have to specify the part number when you order.
     
  11. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    I had the same problem first oil change. Finally got it off by putting a screwdriver against the washer and hitting the end with the heal of my hand, being very careful not to hit the mating surface on the pan itself.

    Part number for the washers is 90430-12031about $1.13 ea at the dealer or $0.84 on line:90430-12031 - OEM Toyota GASKET

    I change it every oil change but I suspect a lot of them never get changed. If it's not dripping just leave it till the next oil change.

    BTW I think Toyota fills the new cars with their 0W20 probably made by Eneos, no special break in oil. I like an early oil change too, I changed mine first time at 1500 miles.
     
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  12. firecracker_rc

    firecracker_rc New Member

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    Thanks, I'll try this at my 10k+ change.

    I replaced with Toyota's 0W20. Toyota says their oil has its own unique set of additives, so while I'll probably use it throughout the life of the car, I figured using their oil on the first (early) change was probably the most critical.
     
  13. Pooka

    Pooka TIFOSO

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    Does the F103N fumoto with nipple fit the 2010 ? TIA !
     
  14. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    I think it should as long as it fits under the oil change door.

    Are you going to the USGP in Austin this year? I am going to try to make it, I've been an F1 fan most of my life but I haven't been to a race yet.
     
  15. Pooka

    Pooka TIFOSO

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    Thanks.

    Yup! booked the hotel ... didnt pay for the PSL tho ... cant wait for USGP! been to almost every Indy USGP !
     
  16. ny_rob

    ny_rob Senior Member

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    @Pooka...
    If the fumoto F103N does fit, would you please post back here.
    Would like to fit one on my car too.

    Thanks....
     
  17. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    I can't see how it can't work. It's the correct M12x1.25 thread that Toyota uses. I've used the Fumoto for year with great success.

    Here's a link to a thread made by another Prius owner on the internet;

    Prius Fumoto

    I. however, NEVER used the blue gasket. I always replaced them with copper gasket washers. Here is a link ot the WW Grainger website for 12MM ID sealing washers made by Imperial in USA;

    https://new.grainger.com/product/Sealing-Washer-5ZLU4

    I always replace the OEM gasket with the soft copper ones. They NEVER crack and they NEVER need to be replaced. I have NOT seen any one leak.

    I always mount the valve, so that the lever part is horizontal when finger tight and make a 1/4 turn with the wrench until the valve lever is vertical and out of the way.

    If the washer is too thick to do this, I just "lap" it thinner with a sheet of 220 grit wet or dry and paper on a flat surfece like my machinist's granite flat surface plate or any other flat surface.

    If you don't have a Grainger account, you can go to the pro desk at Lowes and order them delivered to you home with no shipping charge. I have a Grainger account, but I often oder at Lowes, because I have to drive 18 miles round trip to Grainger. Lowes is a quater mile down the road.


    For those with the "broken" lower hinge flat problem, I'd use an inexpensive "piano," hinge, aluminum, if available,cut to the length needed from any hardware store. I'd mount eh hings in the top side and rivit into place from the bottom with large wide flange aluminum "pop" rivets.

    It's cheap, light weight and a long lasting solution.
     
  18. revhigh

    revhigh MPG Enthusiast

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    Never understood the need for one of those valves.

    I like the oil to come out at full force from the largest orifice possible in order to more effectively flush out any contaminants or particulates. And if you can't even trust it to remain closed without putting band aid fixes on it to ensure that .... I'm definitely not interested. I can turn a wrench every 10K miles and KNOW that I'll never have a problem, and reducing the exit hole from about a half an inch to the size of a straw never impressed me as a wise thing to do from a flushing perspective.

    As far as I'm concerned ... it's just an answer to a question that nobody asked.

    If you want to use it ... go for it ! :D I'll turn a wrench and never have a worry.

    REV
     
  19. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    The threads in the oil pan do wear out. I had a 1969 Mustang that had so many oil changes that the threads wore out.
     
  20. spiderman

    spiderman wretched

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    I had to replace a pan on my Toy truck because I stripped the treads. :(

    Anyway, EVNut has a GenII and I believe they don't have the under-car covers like the GenIII which I would think the Fumoto might interfere with.

    I would be worried the Fumoto would catch on something and get ripped out sticking down like that.