Changing engine coolant

OK Pat, Thanks much for your invaluble asssitance, I will give the IM procedure more attempts. :cheer2:

 

Slightly off subject.
I had a leaking ICE water pump replaced under warranty a few months ago. They documented using 1 gallon of antifreeze and a pump.

Would this classify as a mini coolant change?

 

A complete engine coolant drain and replacement would use ~ 6.5 US quarts. The capacity of the system is ~9 US quarts (because not all of the coolant will come out even after opening all three drains.) So yes, if 4 quarts were replaced then this would qualify as a partial change.

 

Final chapter: I found the ready light. Located Radiator bleed screw, it's 6mm. Never did find IM after about 20 trys, also used procedure in Bently Repair book. No red triangle, But did get the engine to run all the time with a slow RPM. Finally tried once more by force charging, and applying Max heat to cabin and coolant level dropped a bit, 4 oz maybe. After doing this I finally got some heat at the radiator spout and the radiator was finally warm to hot.:cheer2:

 

Hi Andy,

When you make the car IG-ON (where all the instrument panel warning lights are on) are you able to shift from P to N?

The reason that I ask is that my 2007 currently has a 12V battery that needs to be replaced. For fun I was trying to get into inspection mode today, but found that the car refused to shift into N while in IG-ON. After I replace the battery I will see whether this abnormal behavior continues.

Also, you had asked about engine coolant temp. Today (Dec. 2) I drove the 2004 for 15 miles. Ambient air temp is ~70 degrees F. After I returned home, I put the car into inspection mode and revved up the engine until the radiator fan came on.

Then I measured the temp of the radiator hose near the thermostat cover: 180 degrees F. I measured the temp of the radiator cap. 105 degrees F. However the temp of the plastic stem leading up to the cap was 170 degrees F.

I also measured the temp of the water pump housing and that was 170 degrees F.

 

Hi Pat, I just went out to my car and went to ignition on, or ready. The mini period where all the instrument warning or testing is very short, perhaps 1-2 seconds. During that period the shifter will not move. But, after that short period the car shifts into any position. As far as I know this is perfectly normal. My car has always operated like this. Have I totally understood what you were saying?
Your temperatures are far different from mine, I bought a IR gun at Harbor Freight for $20, and I can't believe how useful it is. I have not yet gone on a long drive. not more than 5-10 min. But so far the temps are agreeing with my finger test or immersion thermometer, (luke warm). I will post the results ( post haste ). Interesting, your 2nd. Para, what you are calling abnormal, I am calling normal! Sounds human.
:cheer2:

 

Hi Andy,

1. Make your car IG-ON, where all the instrument panel warning lights are on. To do this, start from IG-OFF, then depress the POWER button twice, without depressing the brake pedal. Note that this is not the same as READY.

2. Now, try the inspection mode routine to see if you can get your car into that mode.

3. If you cannot, then see whether you can shift from P into N while the car is IG-ON (not READY), by depressing the brake pedal and moving the shift selector to N.

I just installed a new 12V battery in my 2007, and it goes into inspection mode without difficulty. Hence if you still have trouble getting into inspection mode, maybe your 12V battery is close to dead.

 

Very good Pat, That explains why I could not enter IM, checked car and on first try it went into N, many tries afterward and it would NOT, checked V, = 12.3 with brake and light = 10.2 V. So I guess some time today I will R2 the 12V, if nec. I'll go buy a new battery. I thank you for your very diligent effort in observing this problem. Opps, I spoke too soon, put in a new battery and exactly the same procedure, will not go into N in IM. So I am not sure what is going on.

 

Thanks all for this thread.

 

I double that thanks. I changed mine in my 2004 yesterday not to bad of a job, only opened one drain the one on the bottom of the storage can, got 3 qts and it quit, removed the valve stem from the drain and the rest of the fluid came out, I got 6 qts total good enough for me, replaced fluid and used the vent opening on the top of the radiator with some help from the pump with a paper clip 6 Qts went back in. I ordered the funnel from amazon for my other prii. again thanks. Jim

 

Anyone have a picture showing the location of the drains for the engine coolant. Just completed the inverter coolant change and want to change out the engine coolant as well but am not 100% positive where the drain is and don't want to just start cracking stuff open...Thanks.

 

I don't have any pictures, but I used the drain at the thermos. It's the only thing there as I recall in the left front, accessible with the bottom plastic trim removed at least partially. There's also a nipple there to attach a hose to. As I recall, that method along with using the coolant storage pump changes about 2/3 of the fluid...

 

I did my coolant change this summer and it took less than an hour. I drained it from the reserve bottle and filled it back up through the radiator by cycling the coolant pump with the relay. Directions are in this forum somewhere if you search. You do not need a special tool. You do need to be careful to get all the air out and that includes running the engine a bit. All in all, I found it a reasonable project.

 

I just read that zerex go5 is made for hybrids. Has anyone used it? Napa sells it.
THANKS

 

I changed the 2 radiator hoses today, over 4 hrs, had to take off the strut
tower brace to get to the one, time consuming. The go5 comes with no water
$ 16.99.

 

I don't have a tech manuel, can't find where to drain the
radiator. THANKS

 

I found the drain valve on drivers side about 5" up from bottom. A couple of
hoses blocks the view.

 

What's your evaluation of the old hoses' condition? Usually the Prius engine runs fairly cool so the hoses have a pretty long service life.

What color is this coolant that you used? I guess you did not want to use Toyota Super Long Life coolant.

Glad you found the radiator valve. I was wondering why you needed to find it since you earlier changed the hoses - and presumably the radiator was automatically drained when the lower hose was removed.

Further, if you open the drain at the coolant heat recovery canister and also leave the radiator cap on, I believe you will find that essentially all of the fluid in the translucent overflow tank, the radiator, and the engine will be nicely sucked out. This can be tested by opening the engine drain cock and the radiator drain cock subsequently, only to find that almost no additional fluid will come out.

This does not mean that the system is totally dry, because the heater core, the valve that switches fluid to the core, and the associated hoses, store ~ 1/3 of the total fluid capacity of the engine coolant system.

 

When I did the hoses I just put back water. Ran car with heater on. Then drained
the radiator and engine. Then put new coolant in. The color is light yellow. Zerex
says the coolants mix no problem. I drained the electric motor twice and put new
coolant in. Where is the thermostat? THANKS There is always an alternative to toyota's high priced parts.

 

The engine thermostat is located within the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is mounted with two bolts to the engine and a radiator hose attaches to the housing.