Hi all, my first post here, where to start, repaired left rail, used trans or motor gen, repaired wiring harness, replaced abs pump. Car sat for over a year, but before the repairs started i managed to start the car took it to dealer got a string of codes of it. My big concern triangle of death, hv battery down to 2 bars, 12 volt battery voltage low. Codes C1310, C1247, C0205, U0123, UO124, UO126, UO029,P3107 Now I do have the freeze frame data as well and do know what most of the codes stand for. Since the repair where made the car did start but only for around 5 or 6 seconds then it stalls. Battery voltage drops quick. What I'm looking for is advise where to start and a coder reader that will work on this car to wipe the old codes. The brake issue I know is a bitch to bleed without the right reader and not looking to spend 3 grand on a reader so off to the dealer with that problem. The stalling issue? looking for a used hv battery i'm thinking and a throttle positing sensor to start off with. For now I just keep charging the 12 volt battery but know I need that as well. Thanks for all that read and reply to my post.
I would install a new battery. Prius does weird things when the voltage drops below 12v. That is more than likely why all the codes are lite up!, to begin with! Hal
Sat for a year, dies after 5 seconds: The motor is NOT firing, it may sound like it is but the sound of a running motor vs. a misfiring one is difficult to distinguish. If you pull codes again, you probably have P3191. First place to check is the throttle body, making sure that the throttle plate is open a crack. If not, clean it, and prop it open with a screwdriver. Is the MAF sensor connected? Try spraying starter fluid into the intake and see if there is any noticeable changes. How about fuel? Hope you had Stabil in the tank. Check the fuel pressure. If you've got air, spark, and fuel, then things get a little more onerous, like valves being stuck. None of those brake codes have anything to do with bleeding the system. C1310 should go away if everything else is working; c1247 may require a visit to the dealer to set the zero point for the stroke sensor; C0205 is a wheel speed sensor; P3107 is airbag ecu. You may also be faced with having to charge the HV battery, due to the length of time it has sat and the bits of what's left that it is giving up for each start attempt. Keep a charge maintainer on the 12V as you work through all this.
The motor only has 14,000 on it, throttle body is clean noticed a small puddle on the intake floor so I think its getting gas, wheel sensor had fine metal shavings stuck to it, cleaned them off hoping it will correct itself on that. Battery on charge to keep up with thing but I know it will need to be replaced. HV battery? not sure but got my eye on a used one. I was not aware of the gas engine starting I thought it was all electric till it hit higher speeds. Thanks for pointing that out. One other thing I forgot to mention, when I step on the brake petal it sounds like metal door scraping even before I push the start button? Now the pump is working on the coolant tank and the inverted pump I know for sure. I'm aware of the recalls on them and hopefully when I get it running it will be a no charge replacement.
The puddle is probably oil. Any luck with starter fluid? You will hear the brake actuator make noise by putting your foot on the pedal before starting, but it should be more of a fast ratcheting noise, like a submachine gun burst. Rusty scraping noise is not normal and is a likely indicator of air in the system.
No luck with starting fluid, looked in throttle body while it was starting, plate did open a little less than an 1/8 inch started for a few seconds then stalls. Will pull the plugs to check for spark, is it possible that if my HV battery is ex low that I won't get spark?
ECM runs off the 12V bus and controls spark. If you have a good sized battery and charge maintainer running, then it should be fine. If the HV battery is too low, then it is possible that it is not spinning the crank fast enough. Do you have a scantool that can read HV battery block voltages and SoC?
Alll great suggestions, one easy thing you can do is buy a multi-meter, verify 12V Battery, Take off all the sheetmetal neccesary to look at all the cells on the HV Bat. Each cell or cell pairs must be very close. I forgot the tolerance, but it is all on Priuschat, do a search. :cheer2:
Pulled first plug and coil connected it to check for spark confirmed no spark! Plugs wet, Hv battery down to last bar. Going to recheck all my connections again, there was welding work done along with some soldering work also. Was almost positive that the disconnect was pulled but that was 2 years ago when I started this all. Cables where severed at the motor Gen plugs with others also for headlights and air bags not to mention a few others. Was not the first to work on this car but all lights and other functions seem to be working except for the horn, I suspect is a broken wire in the steering wheel my fault turned it once past the limit trying to reconnect the steering linkage. ahh.
Pulled 2 codes P0000 erased them only to get them right back when I tried to restart. Got the day off today hoping to find the problem.
Found 2 wires mixed up from the hv ecu to motor gen. temp sensor. Both were black, on a four wire plug. Corrected that but still get no start condition. Scan Gauge II not very helpful only thing it does is clear codes. Was looking into the new Autel MD180 scanner they say it works on air bags and brake systems also, not one of my main concerns but something that needs to be addressed once i get pasted the no start problem.
Hello there! Did you ever manage to sort this car out? Fondling for info in regards to such similar issues, Would like to hear the Conclusion of the discussed?
Sorry for the long time laps my solution to my problem was all in the transmission, I had rechecked the whole wiring harness twice. Just bought one from a salvage yard and popped it in. Started right up. Been so busy as of lately but the only thing it needs is to get the brakes bleed and the air bag reset. The scanner I had picked up was a joke. At least the gave me a refund for it. Wish there was a way to do the last to repairs on this with out taking it to the dealer. If anyone has any info please share it.
Here's a DIY on how to bleed the brakes (w/out going to the dealer). Looks pretty straightforward. Bleeding 05 Prius brakes the old fashion way | PriusChat
