Oil Filter

I've used both the STP and Fram on my 10k and 20k changes. They and the original looked OK. Many folks have oil analysis done with no bad findings. You may consider changing the filter every 5k and top off the loss with fresh syn. That's what I'm considering.

 

I use Toyota filter elements. You comment about the size, it is not like you can install a larger filter element. It is a small engine like you said and then it does not run all the time either.

 

I have been using Toyota filters, available online in a case of 10 for $45 to $50. Each filter comes with an O-ring for the cap. You can order drain plug washers at the same time for about $1 each.

As to which filter is best? I have no way to test them and neither has anyone else. So you just take your chances. Toyota filters are probably as good as any of them and better than most. I have had two oil analysis done after about 10K miles using Mobil 1 0W20 and Toyota filters, no problems.

 

You can't go wrong using the factory filter.

 

I have a box (10 Filters) of Toyota (OEM) for 2010 Prius. Part # 04152-YZZA6, that I would like to sell. $35.00 and I'll pay shipping in the USA.

If anyone is interested, let me know.

Thanks

 

PM sent.....not that I need 10 of them, though lol

 

With the couple of oil changes I've done I used Toyota 0W20 and the Toyota filter.

I doubt there's any benefit to using a third party filter, and there could be fit problems or whatever.

If you're looking for something you can do to possilbly improve engine health/longevity, I'd suggest: changing oil and filter every 5000 miles, the old US guideline (still in effect in Canada).

Just changing the filter more often has got to be at least as benficial as chasing minor benefits from alternative filters.

 

And when it DOES run, it runs at a far lower RPM than a normal ICE.

REV

 

If you still have them ... where are you at in PA. I'm in eastern PA and would like them or however many you have left if wick doesn't want them all.

REV

 

I'll let you know their status after I hear back from wick. Thanks for your interest.

Vic

 

PM sent.

 

Toyota uses the Denso brand, and they are about the best you can buy. I would advise staying as far away from Fram and STP, and some other, as you can ... there is a lot of cheap crap out there.

Check this site Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
Has pictures and discussion on what is IN filters and how much.

and check this site
Denso Automotive Air Conditioner Filters and Car Oil Filters at DensoProducts.com
Shows what is in the Denso.

 

Personally I like Fram filters. There is the site that says Fram filters are no good. But they are attacking things that really are not that important. The filters are made to be less expensive, but many studies have shown that Fram uses the best filter paper in the industry and that Fram filters do the best job of filtering out crud. And even though the construction might not be as good as a WIX, have you ever heard of a Fram filter failing? Stick with Frams, they are the best.

 

Please provide links or other cites to some of those studies showing Fram uses the best filter paper in the industry.

I have seen Fram filters with the glued on end cap not completely glued so there was an internal leakage path that allowed unfiltered oil through the filter. Also have had the experience of Fram anti-drain back check valves not working.

The problem with oil filter failures is that most of them go undetected. Only failures that cause external leakage or block oil flow are normally noticed and those are the minority of failures.

 

I can't remember where I saw the article, but it was an article on filtration efficiency, not construction. It was a few years ago. However, you are correct about undetected failures, they are never a good thing. I'm curious about the anti-drain back valve not working. How did you detect this?

My experience with Frams has been excellent. I've torn into quite a few and have never seen any unglued endcaps or bad anti-drain valves. Fram figured out years ago though that most oil filters are a commodity, that is, the only thing that is important is the lowest cost.

 

I had a car that mounted the oil filer nearly upside down on the side of the block. With Fram filters I would get lifter clatter after the car had been parked a while, with Toyota or Wix I didn't get clatter. I don't know if the problem was their cheap nitrile ADBV or penny pinching design.

 

From the moment I first saw the brand name Fram mentioned in this thread, I knew what would follow. Fram bashing, and yet it's probably one of the oldest brands on the market and continues to thrive.

The fact that I've used them for more than 60 years doesn't make me an expert, but the guy who read somewhere that they are trash isn't an expert either. Are they the best? Who knows, but there are other filters that are reliable. Some prefer the ones with "boutique" names which cost twice as much and do the same thing. If they sleep better as a result, then it's probably worth it.

Now it's time for my nap.

 

Not necessarily. Upon monitoring my scan gauge II today I noticed that mine runs between 2500-4000 rpm throughout my commute due to the terrain around here. That's higher than what my old Saturn and my mom's V6 Altima runs at.

 

I have had the drainback valve fail in a Fram filter so that it took a few seconds to develop oil pressure after each cold start. A filter change (to Mann in this case) completely eliminated the problem. Genuine Toyota filters are cheap and readily available so I personally don't see need any need for an alternative.