Changing Transaxle oil

Other than the Toyota dealer, where else can the ATF WS be acquired? Also, how much are the aluminum washers and can any old washers be used ... like say ones from Home Depot???

Another stupid question... how does one get the car up off the ground and *level* at the same time without one of those large lifts?

Thanks!

 

It's not really necessary to get the car level. When you drain the fluid from the bottom plug, it completely drains out and is precisely 4 qts so you can put the same 4 qts back in at a slight incline. Driving up on service ramps is all that is needed.

 

I plan to change the ATF fluid in my 2006 Prius soon. I'm at 60,000 miles. I'd also like to pull the pan, clean it and replace with a new gasket. So far, I've been unable to find a torque spec for reinstalling the pan. Can anyone help?
Thanks, Matt

 

I think only the dealer has it.

They are about $1 each. You may be able to reuse them but why risk it? I don't think Home Depot sells crush washer; steel washer won't work.

I drive up 4 ramps; one under each wheel.





You could also jack the car up and rest the car on 4 jack stands. (More scary. Better make sure the jack stands are good quality and set up correctly. Also add some backup support.)

 

There is no pan.

 

Re: Changing Transaxle oil_need tool details

Please describe the type of tool for the lower transaxle plug. It looks from the pix like a 6 or 8 point recessed area.

My 2006 has passed the 80,000 mile mark and it's time for this type of preventive maintenance. I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 for the engine since 5k as it's cheaper than a new engine.

I have 10 mm sockets. Now what to use for the recessed area?

Thanks.

 

Please see my post #2 in this string.

In brief, you will need a 10 mm hex key socket. This is the equivalent of a short length of a 10 mm Allen wrench inserted into a 10 mm socket.

 

Hi Atlanta:
Being frugal is unwise in this case. Replacing a transaxle is in the thousands. My nearest Sears was out of the 10mm hex socket, so I went for the $30 Craftsman USA set. Sears also had a Chinese-made set for 1/2 that, but I'd rather buy US tools. Also, get a 3/8 dr. torque wrench. That's an aluminum case and 29 ft-lb is fairly tight. Don't take a chance on stripping threads or cracking the unit.
I found the WS at a suburban Boston dealer for $9/qt. Plus a $1 or so for each aluminum crush gasket. And I used a better quality siphon hose-hand pump-hose to transfer the 4 qts., with my adult son holding the lower hose into the side hole. All done in two hours in our driveway at 48 F. No wind thankfully. All this at 82k miles. The magnet on the drain plug showed 1/16" of metal dust. Sure felt good to get the metal bits out of the precision mechanism.
This DIY project cost about $40 in fluid and some usage of good tools. And be sure to first brush off the outside of the plug areas.
The nearest Toyota dealer wanted $180. Perhaps they don't know a Prius doesn't have a hydraulic torque converter. Oh, sure.
Prius Chat is a great asset for a great car. Thanks to all contributors.

 

I just called IRA Toyota of Danvers MA and asked how much a transaxle fluid drain and fill would be. I about fell on the floor. North of $150.00. I was speechless. I will certainly not be going there for any service nor would I consider going to any IRA dealer for my next car purchase. If I could work on it where I live I would do it myself. Unscrew fill plug, unscrew drain plug, drain into drain pan. Stops draining put drain plug back in. Pour new fluid down funnel with long hose until fluid is just at edge of fill hole. Put fill plug back in. Done.

More than $150.00! Borderline criminal.

 

Considering $100 is the going common good price from a dealer, $150 is high but not criminal.

 

I didn't read the entire 25 pages of this thread, but enough to walk me though the procedure very easily.
I started be going to the dealership to get the ATF-WS and two washers. I paid $9.34 per quart for the fluid, and 2.44 per washer. I suspect it's on the high side, but wasn't worth leaving once I was there. The parts guy tried hard to discourage me from doing the change myself, said that the mechanics pressurized it (which I know to be totally bunk, thanks to PC) and that doing it wrong could wreck the transmission. He then proceeded to not be able to identify the fill or drain plugs on the exploded diagram he pulled up on the computer. To his credit, he did realize all the washers had the same part number and got me two. I'll be looking for another dealership in the future.

Next stop was NAPA to get a torque wrench (28-250 ft.lb) of good quality and $45... and the 24mm socket (the impact socket was all they had in stock) and the 10mm hex drive. The tubing and funnel I already had.

I jacked the front of the car up with my ghetto cinderblock jackstands, giving me plenty of wiggle room underneath and making the car pretty much level. Old fluid came out the fill/check hole when I broke that plug loose, just a bit. Thanks whoever told me to take it all the way out vs just loosen it... drain plug was pretty crusted on there (98,000 in MA + 10,000 in DC) and it took a lot to get it off, but once it was out it drained pretty quick. Running the tubing to the fill was relatively easy. 3/8" ID tubing was pretty quick in getting the new fluid in.

I'm counting the cost of this fill at $48.00, although I did buy $75 worth of tools today too... but that's an INVESTMENT, right?

Thanks everyone for sharing your expertise, lets gorillas like me look like we know what we're doing!

 

I also just changed my transaxle fluid yesterday on my 2005 Prius with 133,500 miles. It had never been changed before. Both original plugs were definitely on there TIGHT! Just a FWIW - IF you don't have the 24mm socket - a 1 inch (6 sided) will work OK as 1 inch equals 24.5mm. Anyway - the fluid WAS quite black, but the drain plug just had a very thin layer of "crap" - nothing serious. When you select your fill hose - don't use one with "too thick" of a wall thickness, you DON'T want one that will fit tight in the fill hole, as the air needs to be able to escape as you add the fluid. Also, my thanks to the guys that posted the pix - made the entire job very easy. I first cracked the fill plug to make sure I could get it loose, than cracked the drain plug, slid the drain pan under the drain hole, took the fill plug all the way out and then removed the drain plug. It all drained nicely. Nice feeling knowing that it HAS been changed and hopefully she'll go another 133,500 miles.

 

I recommend that if you have to use an SAE size, first try 15/16".

 

I just got the TF changed at Wakefield Tire in Wakefield MA. I brought the fluid, a funnel with 3 ft hose and a picture of the area where the drain & fill plugs are. Talked with the mechanic he said looks quicker & easier than an oil change and said it should not take more than 30-45 minutes. Charged me $40. I think that is a very fair price. But then again, I have never felt like Wakefield tire ever took advantage of me. Always doing just the work you ask them to do and never shaking your down for unnecessary extras.

 

An honest, trustworthy service shop is hard to find and worthy of your loyalty. I have one where I live that if the service he performs does not fix your problem he will refuse to accept payment. Hard to find.

Just to be sure, you did use the Toyota WS-ATF fluid ?

 

Yeah there's a typo in there. 1 inch socket will be pretty loose, as it's equivalent to 25.4 mm.

 

This:Never Use Cynder Blocks As Jackstands!!!!!!!!

 

Yes, finding a trustworthy shop is hard to do. But I have been going to Wakefield Tire in Wakefield MA for several years now. Never felt like I was being taken advantage of. I once brought my mothers car in with a dragging rear break. They put it on the lift, found that the parking brake cable was sticking. They lubed it up no more drag. NO CHARGE! A little gesture like that and thier shop will have my business for a long time.

Yes, I used the proper fluid. Got it from a dealer via eBay.

 

Yikes! Makes my foot hurt just reading it!

 

If you didn't see my new post about this I did get my TF changed for $40.00 labor. I supplied the fluid myself. For a total cost of $80.00. I still think that $150.00 is way out of line. Just another example of a stealership taking advantage of people.

The shop that did the work had never done the job before. I showed them some pics and gave them some instructions and they said they would do it for $40.00. A fair price as it only takes all of a half hour labor, if that.