Good day everyone. So I have been very impressed with the month and a half I have owned my prius. I took it in last Wednesday for the recall of the inverter coolant pump. Received it back on Friday. I had been averaging about 54-57MPG on a tank. After receiving the car from the recall, I am now averaging about 45MPG and notice that when I get up to speed and cruise, the instant MPG is substantially lower. My driving habits have not chnaged and I drive the same routes I did before. I plan to contact the dealer on this but curious on any ideas of what could be going on? Thank you
Check the inverter coolant reservoir for flow! Yes I know that's very the issue the car just went in for, but the irony is that several users here have reported taking their Prius in (with a fully functional inverter cooling pump) for the recall to "fix" it and then getting the inverter overheating problem in the first week after the "fix". It think it's usually due to the job being done improperly and the presence of an air pocket in the coolant loop.
Which one is the inverter coolant reservoir? Can you explain what am I suppose to see and how to test? Thank you
Ok found it. Check out the pictures and instructions I posted in my reply #10 in this thread here : http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...95561-maintenance-repair-in-anchorage-ak.html BTW. A decrease in MPG's is a common symptom of an overheating inverter. Even if it's not hot enough to cause warning lights and failure it can still be hot enough to cause it to protect itself by reducing the use of the electric drive. This decreases the MPG's.
It is the small tank at mid engine compartment. Have the car on ready with E-brake set then check for circulation in the tank. Their is also a way to bleed air off, but I would go back to the dealer for that! Hal
So, do I remove the filler cap while the car is in Ready mode to check or do I check it with the filler cap on?
I get the car warm so that it can be in ready mode without the engine running (reduces vibrations and makes it easier to see the turbulence in the tank which indicates flow). I then remove the filler cap while it's in "ready" mode and just look straight down at the fluid. BTW. I haven't tested it, but someone else pointed out that you can also do it in "Ig on" mode which is possibly safer. You get "Ig On" mode by pressing the power button without having your foot on he brake pedal. Press once (from off) to enter "Acc" mode and then one more time to enter "IG On" mode.
IG ON is enough, doesn't have to be READY. Without removing the cap I can see fluid moving vigorously on a spot behind the translucent container wall. If you can't see it then open the cap and look down at the fluid surface. Shining light on the fluid surface also helps. Good luck!
So I checked and the fluid does look like it is moving around in there even with the engine off and the car in ready. The car is definitely not getting the same mileage. It is down about 10-12 MPG average. I can tell the instant MPG doesn't kick up as high as it use to. When I received the car from the dealer it had all the MPG info on the screen that I left it with so I don't think they disconnected the 12v or else that would have reset, right? Any other ideas on what I should do?
It's been rather hot lately. Have you been using the AC more than you did before? Are you traveling the exact same route while watching the instantaneous mpg?
I guess I also observed lower MPG after the recall fix, but I was blaming it on the older orig 12V battery, having replaced it now we seem to be back to normal.
Not a bad idea to check the 12v battery. The dealer could have drained it then charged it back up but we all know that the damage is done by then. This especially true if the battery is the original unit.
I have not been using the AC more than normal as I use the AC all the time. I have been driving the same routes as I only use this car for commuting. Why woukd the 12v battery be acting up specifically after the recall and are you guys suggesting I install a new one?
Like I stated above, the dealer could have reduced capacity by leaving systems running with the car in ready mode. I would suggest testing the battery with a multimeter at the battery terminals after the car has been sitting over night or at least a few hours. I wouldn't just replace it until you have tested it. I work in Auburn and live in Woodland if you need help.
I truly appreciate the offer F8L. I have a multimeter. Which battery am I testing? What should it read? I can post my findings tomorrow. Thank you.