new key - replace steering colum

I can't remember if we pointed you to the Art's Automotive article on Gen I lost all keys fix. However, you will need to get the computer in addition to the lock cylinder + key (don't need the whole column). See the first picture in the article, which shows the immobilizer ECU+lock cylinder+keys, and the third picture, which shows the ECU approximate location.

Prius 1st gen - Immobilizer / Lost all keys

 

You don't need a new immobilizer computer. Reflashing your existing one to new condition will solve the problem.

The immobilizer has to be removed from the car, and shipped to a service that does reflashing. They will disassemble the computer, and write data to its memory chip that is a copy of the data in a new computer. The end result is an immobilizer that behaves like a new one from the Toyota parts department.

Ask around for a locksmith who can do an "immobilizer reflash for a 2001 Prius".

 

The reflash is definitely an option, whereas the Art's Auto article describes the last, most expensive resort. My thought was, the salvage yard ought to be willing to sell keys + lock cyl + ECU for $200. That's probably cheaper than pulling a locksmith into the loop and sending out for a reflash.

 

Don't be so sure that the salvage yard knows the scoop, because every car is different. I strongly suggest you pick it up in person, before handing over any money. But I can't see them not having the computer handy if the steering column is out.

 

You're still going to need an immobilizer computer that is either new, reflashed, or already paired with the set of keys that you get.

The immobilizer in the car that you're getting the steering column from should match the keys.

I suggest more calls to other locksmiths. There is a service in South San Francisco that specializes in reflashing immobilizers. As I recall, they charge a locksmith something like $100 to $150 for the service (no, they won't deal with a non-locksmith ).

As described by the article at Art's, the process consists of replacing a small box inside the dash (the immobilizer). Art's used a new one from a dealer. These days there is the additional option of reflashing the original one. There is also the problem of fitting a new mechanical key to the lock. The replacement steering column (with matching keys) solves that problem. So would having a locksmith pick the existing lock.

Replacing the steering column in order to avoid picking the lock is like replacing the engine to avoid changing the sparkplugs. Yeah, it will work, but wow!

 

Now that I think of it, the salvage guy and Art's are addressing separate parts of the problem. They're both right, but are ignoring half the problem.

The two problems you have to solve are:

• Get a mechanical key that matches the pins in the lock
• Get a transponder that matches the code in the computer

The transponder is a small 1/8" by 1/2" electronic chip that is embedded in the head of the mechanical key.

In order to use the existing steering column, the lock is going to have to be opened. This is what locksmiths do for a living. Or you could replace the entire steering column including the lock.

Next you'll need a mechanical key that matches the lock you're going to use. A locksmith can make one, or you can use the one that comes with the replacement steering column.

And finally, you'll need the transponders in your new keys paired to the immobilizer computer in the car. A matched set of the immobilizer and keys will do. Or a new/reflashed immobilizer plus new keys. Either way, the immobilizer box has to be removed from inside the dash, and the replacement put back in.

 

To do that, you do need the key with the matching code - one of the codes already stored in your immobiliser ECU, or the key that came matched with the immobiliser ECU from a salvage yard (which you'll have to install), or any key and a new/reflashed ECU (which you'll have to install).

But as soon as you have one key that's registered with your ECU as a master, you might as well take the foil wrap off any other key you have, and just register it with the ECU as well.

(I have used the foil trick in sort of the opposite way ... I bought an uncut key blank and registered it with the ECU before taking it to the hardware to be cut, so I could make sure it worked. So I just left the master key in the ignition, and for the step where it's supposed to be the new key, I just put foil over the master and held the new key nearby. Then I took it down to the hardware, where the guy told me "sure I can cut it, but it still won't start your car", and looked sort of surprised when I put it in the ignition and drove off. )

-Chap

 

That's what we are trying to say. You must get the immobilizer ECU that is paired with that steering column. The immobilizer ECU is NOT part of the steering column. It sits above it, underneath the dash.

If you don't do this, then you would still have to pull the immobilizer ECU from your car and send it off to be reflashed, and then have it reprogrammed.

 

Well, if I'm reading this ToyoDIY listing right, you'd be looking for something with a part number 89780-47010, and that does seem to be right since the Art's Automotive write-up seilerts found for you has a photo, and I can make out that part number on the label (which also says ECU, IMMOBILIZER). So, you're looking for something that looks like that.

Hmm, price not as scary as I expected, only around $215 through some partswebsite dealers. Maybe they have had to adjust to competition from the reflashing services.

-Chap