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ECT Adjuster on Gen3 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by stealth_mode, Jul 17, 2011.

  1. stealth_mode

    stealth_mode New Member

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    Thanks to ccdisce we now have a very stable and programmable "ECT-Adjuster" for Prius.
    I want to share the first install on a Gen 3 here on PC.
    The design is to tap into the ECT signal and +5 V without cutting any wires:

    -according to the Gen3 Service manual the signals are ETHW, THW and VTCA as you can see in the schematic.
    -note that the ECM in Gen3 is located in the engine compartment.
    WARNING: every manipulation and alteration @ your own risk!!
    BEWARE of high voltage: the boost converter is right in front of you?
    T.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. ccdisce

    ccdisce Active Member

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    Did you run the cable into the passenger compartment?
    If you did so could you post a picture of the Rubber Boot/Grommet you located on the firewall?

    Thanks.
     
  3. adrian scott

    adrian scott Junior Member

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    I've had my ECT Spoofer on for about 2 weeks now and the results are remarkable.

    I have a 4kwh Enginer Kit and with the ECT spoofer on I'm now running about 2.2 L/100kms (and falling), or about 110 MPG.

    I have a 2010 Gen3 in Australia and it's currently "the colder months" with start of day at ~5 degrees Celsius and day time temp ~15 degrees Celcius.

    The device when on seems to let the car start in a mode where:

    - the ICE does NOT come on until you press the HSI > 50%, meaning, as long as I have adequate SOC I can drive on pure electric power (Enginer Kit means short trips @ 100% electricity and no gas are possible)

    - and when the ICE does come on, it only runs for the minimum S1a duration (about 40-50s), then off.

    My thanks to ccdisce for his device and his support as I installed and monitored. Highly recommended if you have PHEV.
    ;)
     
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  4. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    By the way, I see you never got an answer to the grommet question. I'm sure others have solved this another way for the Gen3 and not posted, but here's what I did.

    Getting to the firewall is nearly, if not, impossible up high on the driver's side, which is where the ECU is located. I jacked up the car and took some looks around the lower firewall from the outside and from the floor inside. I thought the hood release cable might be a likely candidate, but it's not really accessible where it goes through the wall. Didn't see any grommets and the boot around the steering linkage seems pretty stiff. Also not handy to the ECU.

    I was able to run a shielded phone wire with 4 leads, presumably for the switch (if the unit is under the hood) or maybe the taps into the ECU (if the unit is in the car), from the switch panel up the inside of the driver's door seal across to a channel that runs into the driver's side front fender over the wheel well.

    Popped off 4 little press fasteners and loosened the plastic lining along the top of the wheel well. Shoved the wire out through a little round hole at the front of the wheel well and kept pushing. It came out right at the front of the ECU.

    There is perhaps an inch of exposed wire running across the inside of the door frame/sill, about mirror height, but a piece of masking tape painted to match the body color would easily hide it if it bothered you. I wouldn't even take notice of it. You could also select insulation close to your body color, paint that section of the wire, etc. I used a really thick phone wire too, since it's what I had available with enough length and stiffness to serve as a snake. Thinner wire would be even less obvious.

    I have a few photos if you want them.
     
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  5. ccdisce

    ccdisce Active Member

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    Sure.
    Please post here for the PC community to see.

    ccdisce.
     
  6. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    First time I've uploaded photos here, and didn't do it very consistently, I'm afraid. :)

    Run the wire from the switch panel behind the door seal rubber, across to the seal under the left front window and into the channel that heads into the wheel well. Nothing is visible with the door shut.

    WireAcrossFrame.JPG
     
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  7. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    Here's where the wire goes into the little hole at the front of the wheel well. You do not have to remove the tire... just pop off 4 press-in fasteners and pull back the stiff lining. Find the wire threaded in from the channel and stuff it in the little round hole. Push a foot or so of wire through until you find it near the front of the connectors. Put the lining back in place and reattach fasteners.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    The wire comes out right where we want it!
     
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  9. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    Revised photo to show the actual ECM connector, as shown at the top of the thread. Still mis-labeled as ECU. Oh, well.
    WireAtECUConnector.JPG
     
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  10. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    This is very helpful information. I noticed you removed the ECM connector cover to make room for the splices. The cable coming out of that cover is wrapped in black cloth. Presumably, removing the cloth would expose the necessary wires without having to damage the plastic cover?

    Alternately, would it be possible to attach at the thermistor or along its wire path to this connector? Maybe the +5V is available at other places in the car as well. Along these lines, does anyone know where the thermistor is located?

    Thanks...
     
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  11. peterjmc

    peterjmc Ping pong in Ding Dang...

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    What does the ECT adjuster do?
     
  12. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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  13. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    Never mind! I found this post which explains how to cleanly remove the connector cover, exposing all the wires. I don't care about replacing the cover once tapped, I just didn't want to do a messy job removing it.

    As shown in the link below, unplugging the connector and pushing in gently on the tiny pins on the end released one end of the cover right away. Removing the cable tie at the other end and the cover was off.

    It's possible that removing a tiny piece of insulation from each wire to be tapped and doing a "twist and tape" attachment of each wire instead of using a bulky tap might even allow the cover to be replaced.

    yet another thermistor hack for Gen3 | PriusChat
     
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  14. ccdisce

    ccdisce Active Member

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    The wire taps curently being used are about 1/2 the size of the red ones shown in the early installations and have a shot of silicone gel to weatherproof the tap.
     
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  15. MarvHein

    MarvHein Junior Member

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    Thanks for providing the kit for me to try. The original cable run described above works fine until you get the wire out into the fender. At that point, you run out of wire. So the part about "the little hole" at the front of the wheel well is useless.

    Fortunately, by running a snake down into the fender from near the hood hinge, the cable can be pulled up out of the wheel well so that it comes out in the engine bay right near the connector. This saves about two and a half feet of wire and works perfectly with your cable.

    The smaller taps work great and easily fit under the cover when it is replaced.
     
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  16. hayden55

    hayden55 Member

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    Sorry to bring to life an old thread but do you guys have anymore info on your kit for the third gen? Considering this mod and/or an injector kill switch.
     
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