Online diagnosis is just fine provided we don't work backwards and continue to dwell on something that isn't the problem - but that isn't how it works in this forum apparently. I never planned or had any expectation of fixing the problem myself - nor should I. It falls squarely on the shoulders of Toyota to honor their warranty and I will hold them to it.
Yep. I've even had to put him on my "ignore user" list as he's been spamming me with offensive PM's! Very sad, that's the first time I've had to use the "ignore user" feature.
There are times the children around here just need their hands spanked. There is no need to send offensive messages to anyone. People need to learn how to play nicely with others.
does that include repeatedly insisting the 12v battery is defective when members have been told repeatedly it isnt? Oh.... also there's this little gems ... first words out of uart's mouth are suggesting I am because (again) it's NOT my 12v battery... I guess that's how he "plays nicely with others". :cheer2:
^^^ I simply described your behavior towards me in those terms. The fact that it was an accurate description of your behavior (when I was trying to help you in your previous thread) is completely down to you.
There are many instances posted on many different cars where the thermostat was stuck open, causing the engine to run cool. That causes the engine to run with an enriched fuel mixture, resulting in poor mileage. The quickest way to see if this is the case with your car is to read the OBDII port engine coolant while driving (such as with a Scangauge II). If you live in a cold area such as I do, the engine actually takes a very long time to reach full operating temp, and I have both grills blocked in winter. If you live in warmer areas, such as the west coast, then not so much. I see the coolant running at 60-70C for 20 min. After that it finally warms up to the thermostat opening temp of 85C. Hence, I see poor mileage in winter. Last two tankfuls ran at 7 l/100 km. Current tank is at 6 l/100 km (it's finally warmed up a bit, running around freezing, instead of -20C as it was for the last few months - sigh). Hope the guys at the dealership are right about the thermostat, as that's an easy fix.
Another easy way is to use a handheld IR instant-read thermometer, and aim the laser spot at the radiator hose next to the thermostat housing.
They are quite inexpensive. Here is the one that I own: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-62-Mini-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C If you have that and a decent digital multimeter, you can take care of a large variety of issues, Prius-related and otherwise. You can see how well your home AC and heater are working, check your refrigerator and freezer temperature, check the body temperature of your significant other/spouse, etc.
I could definitely see that happening in Alberta at -20c but not in Vancouver at +5c and upwards. interesting stuff though!
Vancouver has nothing to do with thermostat's sticking! If the thermostat does not stop the flow,it will never reach operating temperature, even in Vancouver! Hal
agreed! Just noting that I could see that it would be difficult for a Prius to legitimately reach operating temperature in Alberta in -20c.
Yes but the Prius doesn't know the actual temperature if the sensor is stuck open... You could be on the sun, and if the sensor is broken it would think it was freezing out.
At any rate, what I was alluding to is that a Scangauge can be a good investment. It can be used in just about any car to give the driver more and better information with semi-accurate gauges, and can easily diagnose problems such as the one in this thread. I have two, one in Pearl and one in Bruiser (2007 FJ Cruiser). BTW, both vehicles thermostats work, as verified by the Scangauge readings.
