New install - red panel light stays on even though BMS says all cell voltages well above 3.1

Sometimes the switch is bad. On mine, the red LED glows faintly when the system is at maximum throughput. Presumably with yours, though, the readings that you noticed on the remote BMS display were sensible, particularly the input and output voltages and currents?

 

I had some issues to start with, and my system at work still treats the drive as Read Only. However, my system at home works just fine. What OS are you using? Also, do you have more than one USB port on your laptop? If so, try plugging it into the alternate one.

 

Hmm, something is not right, the kit should not operate while the red light is on. There is also a small red and green led on the converter itself, what do they show? does the red LED on the switch go out if you turn the BMS off temporarily?

 

In my expereince the converter will shut itself down (happens at about 46V) well before the BMS interferes. at 46V the cells should be at about 2.8V, if they hit 2.5V they are fully discharged which we want to avoid.

If the voltage recovers sufficiently (seems it needs to go over 50V) then the converter will come back on, hit 46V and go off again. this cycling is not good for the batteries or BMS, so the instructions say turn the kit off as soon as you see the red light. in short, the switch needs to be repaired or replaced.

 

I would say the switch is bad or the harness is pinched.

Chris

 

I have the same problem, though the red light goes off a lot of the time now that I have rewired the ferrite. So I think it has something to do with noise from the inverter, it could be coincidence but it was on all the time before. I rewired ferrite due to radio interference only when kit was switched on I have ordered another ferrite and am going to put the DC wires from inverter to stock battery into some shielded containment to cut the noise down further, I will let you know how I get on.

As to the SD card my laptop keeps telling me I need to reformat it which I might try soon.

 

Hmm, in the gen3 the HV cable exits the back of the enginer box and the telephone signal cable exits at the side. How close are the two cables to each other in the gen2 setup?

 

About 3" apart.

 

I found out the cause of my red light problem and it was my fault, I clamped the box down with brackets sandwiched with rubber and wasn't getting a constant good earth on the box, I have fitted an extra earth strap and the red light hasn't come on since. I know a few of you haven't bolted your kits down, if you fit brackets as I have, make sure they could hold it down in the event of an accident because you never know.

 

Hmm, that shouldn't have been a problem, since the switch up front is conencted to the chassis on the brown cable. maybe that connection was not too good?

Well, so long as it's working, that's great. i echo your comments that bolting this thing down is very important. mine is very secure, you can grab the handles and lift with all your might and the back end of the car starts to lift.

 

The brown wire at the front was fine without it the kit would not switch on, I think it is too small and too far for earthing the whole box. The 8mm earth strap certainly worked instantly. I will report on it's performance but so far I am at 85mpg average and will probably get better as I get used to it.

 

That's pretty awesome. i know mine will go up once it's fully working again. i hope yours is trouble free from now!