PLZ HELP!! No Heat!! No Hot Air!!!

Did you say you just changed your radiator? Do you hear gurgling in the car? If so, it is possible you did not get all the air out of the cooling system. Make sure the coolant in the expansion tank is at proper level. Then put the heat on economy and max hot, drive down the highway for about 20 minutes to see if that changes the level in the tank.
If that doesn't work, we will need more info to help you.
Try to stay warm,
Joe

 

Most likely you have an air bubble in the system from refilling the coolant.

Tom

 

To remove the air:
Remove the black plastic radiator cover that is just behind the hood latch. Under that cover, directly over the radiator on the right (driver's side) of the radiator, you will see about a 1/2" hole in the metal brace. Take a flashlight, and if you have the right hole, you will see (6mm?) hex socket. that is the radiator vent. When car is cold, open that vent about 2-3 turn. Do not remove it, just loosen it. Now remove radiator cap and fill with 50/50 until fluid runs out of that vent(use your flashlight).
Button it up and drive it again. You may have to repeat after a driving cycle.

 

An air bubble makes sense, impeding flow of hot fluid to the heat exchanger. Look up Pat Wong's thread on exchanging engine coolant, it has the best instructions related to purging air. I also suggest you jack up the front of the car (not the back) while you are at it. Last tip courtesy of Ed in Florida.

The 'A/C' is NOT just cooling, it is used for water removal from the air also. It does not sound like a good idea at all to leave that component dry. Choosing 'A/C' or 'Auto' will turn it on; you definitely do not want to run the compressor dry.

 

1- check to see if you hear blower fan operating under glove-box with the A/C Auto switch off, the air flow switch set to vent through main instrument panels, and the fan speed switch to Hi.
Check blower fan on both air intake settings

2- If the blower fan works then set temperature to Hi and press rear and front defrost switches and fan speed to high.

3-You should have heat even if you have coolant problems in the main radiator in the front of the car because the prius has 3 PTC heaters, with two of these heaters attached to the heater core radiator which is not same radiator as the main ICE radiator.

4- If no air is blowing through the front windshield, then check to see if servo motors are operating for the inlet and outlet duct dampers.
2 Inlet dampers on passenger glove-box side
2 Outlet dampers on drivers side above gas pedal

 

I don't think the compressor will allow itself to run dry, but can't say I've tried it..

 

Make absolutely certain you use the correct refrigerant. The Prius uses a hermetically sealed electrically powered direct drive A/C compressor. This means that the electrical windings come into contact with the refrigerant and lubrication. If you use the wrong one it will short out the A/C compressor motor, necessitating a complete replacement of the compressor/motor.

Tom

 

I'd leave charging the AC to the dealer.

All the air in the system has to be pumped out before refrigerant is put in. If you don't do everything right, it won't be 100% efficient, will work harder and break down sooner.

The car talk guys say AC repairs usually cost around $100 or over $1000...there's no in between. Evacuating and charging your system should be around $100.

 

1. I recommend that you use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant when replenishing coolant. This has a pink color and is premixed with distilled water. Other coolants may not be compatible.

2. The empty container mounted to the side of the inverter holds inverter/transaxle coolant. This also should be filled with Toyota SLLC and the bleed valve at the front of the inverter needs to be opened to rid the system of air. There are several posts regarding how to do this.

3. The canister in the LF fender well holds engine coolant, that is why the fluid is pink. This is replenished via the radiator cap.

4. I recommend that you remove the actual radiator cap to see what the coolant level is, and refill as needed. Do not assume that fluid added to the reservoir will quickly make its way into the radiator; this may take a long time depending upon the level within the radiator.

 

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...leshooting/30813-changing-engine-coolant.html

One point that helped me, accelerating the engine helps to purge excess air, Patrick Wong suggests doing this in the inspection mode in the above link.

Using a scangauge to monitor the engine coolant temperature is very helpful in do-it-yourself coolant changes, relying on the warning light does not give much information.

.

 

That is a no-no. Pls follow Pat Wong's advice

 

Exactly. The Prius electric compressor is tricky. The system uses special ND11 oil. If even a small amount of any other type oil is introduced into the system it will break down the electrical insulation in the comp and it will throw a DTC. The scope of the amount of oil to be installed is out of home diy'er capability.

And since you have installed the wrong gas it is imperative to get to the dealer and have the system purged asap.

On any car on the planet with a new condenser having been replaced a complete sytem evac and flush must be done before a re-charge. A new drier is a good idea also.

Plus when replacing any component in the ac system a leak check is imperative and is part of any competent ac repair.
Charging the system without a complete test for even a tiny leak is waste of time:

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/multilist_167/automotive_air_conditioning_leak.html

Be careful with the engine coolant also as you could overheat the motor. Just because you have no cabin heat does not mean the engine is not overheating. Even a slight overheat is not good on the engine as it has an aluminum head. You have a monster air lock.

Get the car to the dealer.